Headphone socket for thick front plate?

[r_jik45]

Hi,
I would like to install a jack 6.35mm socket for headphone through a thick front plate (8mm). So far the longest 'going-through' that I found is 9mm long (9-10mm diameter), too short to screw it within the front plate. The other option would be to use a xlr-style socket from outside the plate (but around 20mm diameter).
Wondering if someone knows a non-xlr-style socket that could fit?
Thanks

 

[ubergeeknz]

Counterbore the rear a few mm, large enough to accommodate the nut

AND/OR

Counterbore the front so that the socket sits flush

 

[r_jik45]

Ubergeeknz,
Thanks for your reply.
Thought about something like that, but would likely require something like a straight shank drill (not sure about the name in English, edit: milling cutter). Have only normal drills here. Also, would prefer to 'drill' the back side, not the rear one (edit2: ok, rear and back are the same).

 

[Stixx]

I've used this one successfully in the past.

BKL Electronic Kreimendahl | Klinkeneinbaubuchse 6,3mm Stereo, Einlochmontage, langes Gewinde

Question is... will you find it in your area?

 

[r_jik45]

Stixx,
Thanks, yes, something like that. Will check!

 

[JMFahey]

There are "looooong" 6.35 mm jacks designed for guitar body mounting, because wood is too fragile to be routed down to 1 or 1.5 mm thick to hold a regular (sheet metal panel) jack or they plain need to reach the internal controls cavity.

search for them at Guitar/Music supply houses, not standard Electonics ones.

This one is from:
Switchcraft Barrel Female Jack Socket for Acoustic Guitars (Stereo) - Andertons Music Co.

 

[r_jik45]

JMFahey,
Thanks to you too for the reply.
Guitar stuff seems indeed to be the way. Many are mono though, have to be sure that it's stereo (like in your link).

 

[Mark Tillotson]

Ubergeeknz,
Thanks for your reply.
Thought about something like that, but would likely require something like a straight shank drill (not sure about the name in English, edit: milling cutter). Have only normal drills here. Also, would prefer to 'drill' the back side, not the rear one (edit2: ok, rear and back are the same).

Standard end-mill cutters cannot drill, but ones are available designed to drill, called centre-cut end-mills or slot-drills.

 

[r_jik45]

Mark Tillotson,
Thanks for the explanation. It's sometimes difficult for non-native English speakers to give names to tools (even basic ones); hence difficult to find them.

 

[337alant]

Thanks everyone I like the Neutrik Socket so I have ordered one of these
NJ3FP6C | Neutrik

Alan

 

[337alant]

I've used this one successfully in the past.

BKL Electronic Kreimendahl | Klinkeneinbaubuchse 6,3mm Stereo, Einlochmontage, langes Gewinde

Question is... will you find it in your area?

Switchcraft do something very similar so I have ordered one of them as well
152B | Switchcraft 6.35 mm Panel Mount Stereo Jack Jack Socket, 3Pole | RS Components
Alan

 

[H713]

End-mills work excellent for counterboring and even drilling, with a few caveats. First, make sure the workpiece is well clamped, and I don't mean with a squeeze clamp. I mean held in a vise that is bolted to the t-slots in a mill or drill press table. If you're using a mill, lock the table. It's also best to hold the end mill in a collet if at all possible.

If it's aluminum, some form of fluid is a necessity to prevent chip welding. This is one of the few things that WD-40 actually works well for. Kerosene, works well too, however the fumes are significantly worse.

Don't even think about trying this with a hand drill.

 

[r_jik45]

Hand drilling is not what I plan to do.