Hello.
I've refoamed a pair of woofers once, with perfectly fine results, but the repair kit vendor provided, as the adhesive, a tube of good old model airplane glue, with their labeling.
Those of you who have gone through building plastic model planes or cars know about this glue. You squeeze the tube a little, and nothing. Squeeze it a little more, nothing. Squeeze it a little more, and BLOB.
I have a pair of drivers on the bench now, that need new surrounds. I would like to use an adhesive with a more consistent flow, so I would get a nicer-looking job.
Does anyone have any recommendations regarding this aspect of this? Another glue? Another vendor? (I'm in the US) Another method?
Thank you kindly.
I've refoamed a pair of woofers once, with perfectly fine results, but the repair kit vendor provided, as the adhesive, a tube of good old model airplane glue, with their labeling.
Those of you who have gone through building plastic model planes or cars know about this glue. You squeeze the tube a little, and nothing. Squeeze it a little more, nothing. Squeeze it a little more, and BLOB.
I have a pair of drivers on the bench now, that need new surrounds. I would like to use an adhesive with a more consistent flow, so I would get a nicer-looking job.
Does anyone have any recommendations regarding this aspect of this? Another glue? Another vendor? (I'm in the US) Another method?
Thank you kindly.
Ive thrown foam surrounds away because they look bad and rot quite fast.
Those super glues are fine if you know how to use them... Never had those problems.
Gorilla glue perhaps?
Those super glues are fine if you know how to use them... Never had those problems.
Gorilla glue perhaps?
I always use a thixotropic petroleum based adhesive for loudspeaker recones and rebuilds. It is a contact adhesive with the benefit of movement for a few minutes and a flexible long lasting property.
There is a white, clear drying EVA (water) based adhesive that dries quite slowly and allows much time to fiddle with 30 hz tones and setting. There also is a brown, MEK based adhesive that sets up much quicker for those who use shims and don't need to fiddle. The latter glue is perhaps what poster #3 described. Both provide good bonding once dry.
Both adhesives are sold in 2 oz. bottles by Orange county Speaker repair in L.A. U.S.A. (Official Speaker Repair Site - Orange County Speaker - Home of GLS Audio).
Take your pick.
Both adhesives are sold in 2 oz. bottles by Orange county Speaker repair in L.A. U.S.A. (Official Speaker Repair Site - Orange County Speaker - Home of GLS Audio).
Take your pick.
What's the difference between EVA, PVA and PVAc?
PVA wood glue is not suitable for speaker rebuilding. It sets too hard.
Watered down PVA is used in schools to glue paper and card. That too is not suitable for speaker rebuilding.
PVA wood glue is not suitable for speaker rebuilding. It sets too hard.
Watered down PVA is used in schools to glue paper and card. That too is not suitable for speaker rebuilding.
I imagine each has a different molecular weight. In any case, EVA dries to a rubbery solid and clear. Perhaps something like bathtub caulk. The good news for the OP is he appears to reside in the U.S. where Orange County speaker repair is located.
Also, were talking refoaming here, not speaker building.
Also, were talking refoaming here, not speaker building.
Thank you for your kind responses.
I can use some help with two more things: How can I encounter these chemical formulas on a retail basis? Is Orange County the only practical source?
Secondly, and most related to my original question, what kind of tool do you use to apply the stuff evenly and neatly?
I can use some help with two more things: How can I encounter these chemical formulas on a retail basis? Is Orange County the only practical source?
Secondly, and most related to my original question, what kind of tool do you use to apply the stuff evenly and neatly?
The 2 oz bottles come with an applicator tip you snip a bit off of expose the hole. Just squeeze the bottle gently whilst twirling the tip against the foam. Visit youtube and do a search on refoaming. You'll get all the advice you need.
Suppose I go to Orange County. Suppose I purchase the EVA glue. Suppose I use the container/applicator that they provide. Will that material flow evenly, which is to say significantly more evenly than a tube of airplane glue?
I build speakers for a living.
Personal experience: avoid if possible solvent based glues because foam absorbs it and distorts.
Yes, it will recover its shape later but meanwhile it might have dried skewed, or out of place.
Cyano types might avoid that just because they act real fast, within minutes.
Personally I use good quality , white, water based carpenter type glue, the kind you can buy in any hardware shop, reload it in an old mustard tube which as you see is *designed* to apply a fine bead .
So I apply a fine bead of glue all around the cone edge, if necessary even it out with a fingertip and then apply the new foam ring over it.
Do the same on the speaker frame edge, of course.
In general, do not apply too much but if you get an ugly overflow, you can wipe it out with a barely humid cottonball if you act within minutes.
Then let it dry overnight.
*If* you need some how-to images, tonight I´m refoaming a couple 10" woofers and if needed can take a couple pictures 🙂 .
EDIT: you need to apply less than half (or even less) what´s shown in the above picture.
A little goes a long way.
Personal experience: avoid if possible solvent based glues because foam absorbs it and distorts.
Yes, it will recover its shape later but meanwhile it might have dried skewed, or out of place.
Cyano types might avoid that just because they act real fast, within minutes.
Personally I use good quality , white, water based carpenter type glue, the kind you can buy in any hardware shop, reload it in an old mustard tube which as you see is *designed* to apply a fine bead .
So I apply a fine bead of glue all around the cone edge, if necessary even it out with a fingertip and then apply the new foam ring over it.
Do the same on the speaker frame edge, of course.
In general, do not apply too much but if you get an ugly overflow, you can wipe it out with a barely humid cottonball if you act within minutes.
Then let it dry overnight.
*If* you need some how-to images, tonight I´m refoaming a couple 10" woofers and if needed can take a couple pictures 🙂 .
EDIT: you need to apply less than half (or even less) what´s shown in the above picture.
A little goes a long way.
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Buy Your foams from Rick Cobb. glue in suitable applicators and a cd with a 30hz tune for centering are included.
Yes, I have. I looked at a couple of them. There was nothing there that I hadn't done before -- in fact, I cut the domes and shimmed the coil assemblies because I believe that that's the correct way to do it -- which neither of the videos I watched showed.
Is there a particular video that you recommend?
Remember that my initial question is that I am looking for a consistent glue applicator, and not much more than that. I suspect that a linguist would enjoy comparing my questions with the responses that they evoke.
I have no specific video in mind as I presumed you watched how the presenters applied the glue.
I am not aware of a glue bottle that controls application amount. You are trying to apply glue over about 1/4 to 1/2 inch width. IIRC, the videos tend to show a bead being applied to the foam, then it is brushed to level it out over the width.
I don't use a brush. I simply apply the glue as described in my 11:53 a.m. post today.
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THIS is the stuff supplied by www.speaker-repairs.co.uk. It works great for refoaming paper drivers.
I did the job with a neoprene glue and as an applicator I took
the syringe, dulled its tip and filled it up with glue.
I just finished another foam job a couple days ago. Midwest speaker supplies the right glue, the good glue. Its the black stuff you see on factory poly drivers. And theres no need to squeeze the bottle at all, by simply holding it spout down it comes out in a nice bead by gravity, the perfect amount as long as you keep it moving along your gluing surface at the appropriate pace, you get the perfect amount every time.
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