First, thanks for all the help I've gotten on this forum. I am 99% done with my projector, but this LCD thing is killing me.
To make matters worse, this is actually my second LCD. BTW, this is a 15" display. The first one died when I accidentally hit it on something when installing it.
This LCD worked fine prior to tearing it apart. Tear apart went well, and it worked after dismantling it and prior to mounting it to the frame where it would reside in the projector.
Now that the LCD is installed, upon power-up, the top 1/3 of the panel displays an image (desktop), while the bottom 2/3 has what appears to be a wipe of one horizontal line of pixels. In other words, there is an image, but it is just random vertical bars. Once into Windows, moving the mouse around will change these pixels to different colors.
I've checked all wiring, although I haven't re-assembled the unit outside of the frame. I'll attempt that tonight.
My question is this: Has anyone ever encountered this and known what the cause is?
Thanks!
Graham
To make matters worse, this is actually my second LCD. BTW, this is a 15" display. The first one died when I accidentally hit it on something when installing it.
This LCD worked fine prior to tearing it apart. Tear apart went well, and it worked after dismantling it and prior to mounting it to the frame where it would reside in the projector.
Now that the LCD is installed, upon power-up, the top 1/3 of the panel displays an image (desktop), while the bottom 2/3 has what appears to be a wipe of one horizontal line of pixels. In other words, there is an image, but it is just random vertical bars. Once into Windows, moving the mouse around will change these pixels to different colors.
I've checked all wiring, although I haven't re-assembled the unit outside of the frame. I'll attempt that tonight.
My question is this: Has anyone ever encountered this and known what the cause is?
Thanks!
Graham
Is there any stress on the panel?
Are you triple-sure that the connectors are all as they should be?
Have you (d'oh! ) put it back together to see if it works like when you first got it?
If it's the same type of panel as the first, try switching the electronics.
You're sure the video to it is ok?
Are you triple-sure that the connectors are all as they should be?
Have you (d'oh! ) put it back together to see if it works like when you first got it?
If it's the same type of panel as the first, try switching the electronics.
You're sure the video to it is ok?
It sounds like knocked one of the ever sensitive flat flex ribbon cables loose. Gently check all connections to see if that fixes it. If it's permanently messed up I suppose you could always run your video in a window 🙂 .
Thanks for your help guys. I haven't had time to work on it this week, though.
I will hopefully have some time this weekend. The new monitor should be here today, so if all else fails, I've got a backup. I'd sure like to resuscitate the one I've got though.
Mario, I didn't even realize the side ribbon cables that attach to the panel are removable. I will look tonight and see if the connection is solid.
On a happy note, I picked up a New Da-Lite 106-inch HDTV Model B Pull-Down Projection Screen on Craigslist for 80 bucks! I was planning on building a frame out of PVC and stretching a white shower curtain over it. Maximum width would have been about 6 ft. Now I've got a REAL screen that is close to 9 ft across, and it suspends from the ceiling! I'm totally psyched!
I will hopefully have some time this weekend. The new monitor should be here today, so if all else fails, I've got a backup. I'd sure like to resuscitate the one I've got though.
Mario, I didn't even realize the side ribbon cables that attach to the panel are removable. I will look tonight and see if the connection is solid.
On a happy note, I picked up a New Da-Lite 106-inch HDTV Model B Pull-Down Projection Screen on Craigslist for 80 bucks! I was planning on building a frame out of PVC and stretching a white shower curtain over it. Maximum width would have been about 6 ft. Now I've got a REAL screen that is close to 9 ft across, and it suspends from the ceiling! I'm totally psyched!
flat flexible cables
The FFC between the driver boards probably uses a socket on one end, and is soldered on the other. You can open the socket if you need to add an extender cable, to get the driver boards out of the way.
But the big FFCs between the driver boards and the LCD glass ARE NOT removable. In fact they are pretty delicate, and you will break their connections if you stress them at all or even if you just flop the driver boards around on them very much.
One key to getting an LCD to survive stripping, is to have a suitable frame ready to accept it as soon as you strip it. The frame should hold the driver boards (gently but firmly) out of the light path without putting any strain on the big FFCs.
Wierd colors or no image at all are signs that the FFC between the driver boards is not all connected. (Easy to fix.) Whole sections of the screen dead, is a sign you tore one of the big driver board to glass FFCs. (And you are hosed.
)
The FFC between the driver boards probably uses a socket on one end, and is soldered on the other. You can open the socket if you need to add an extender cable, to get the driver boards out of the way.
But the big FFCs between the driver boards and the LCD glass ARE NOT removable. In fact they are pretty delicate, and you will break their connections if you stress them at all or even if you just flop the driver boards around on them very much.
One key to getting an LCD to survive stripping, is to have a suitable frame ready to accept it as soon as you strip it. The frame should hold the driver boards (gently but firmly) out of the light path without putting any strain on the big FFCs.
Wierd colors or no image at all are signs that the FFC between the driver boards is not all connected. (Easy to fix.) Whole sections of the screen dead, is a sign you tore one of the big driver board to glass FFCs. (And you are hosed.
)Thanks for your help guys. I believe I have indeed hosed this monitor. I'll be more careful next time!
hmm talking about a static safe workplace...does anyone know a really good site that shows u how to avoid any problems from static?
I have never really been 2 worried about static, but now that im dealing with an LCD i think i had better.
I have never really been 2 worried about static, but now that im dealing with an LCD i think i had better.
anti-static
The "official" method is to wear a grounded wrist strap, and work on a grounded anti-static mat on your work table. No plastic cups, no wool or synthetic clothing on anybody in the room! (Wrist straps and anti-static mats are connected to a ground through around a 1 MegOhm resister, so they will bleed a charge down slowly without a lot of current.)
The "good enough" method is to wear only cotton clothing, and work in a room where the humidity is high. Every time you have to get up and walk around, when you sit down again at the work table touch a good ground to bleed off any static charge before you touch any of the LCD parts. If it is a dry day, or you are using a heater without a humidifier, then wait for a day with more humid conditions or do something to raise the humidity in your room.
The "official" method is to wear a grounded wrist strap, and work on a grounded anti-static mat on your work table. No plastic cups, no wool or synthetic clothing on anybody in the room! (Wrist straps and anti-static mats are connected to a ground through around a 1 MegOhm resister, so they will bleed a charge down slowly without a lot of current.)
The "good enough" method is to wear only cotton clothing, and work in a room where the humidity is high. Every time you have to get up and walk around, when you sit down again at the work table touch a good ground to bleed off any static charge before you touch any of the LCD parts. If it is a dry day, or you are using a heater without a humidifier, then wait for a day with more humid conditions or do something to raise the humidity in your room.
thanks mate 🙂
being summer here in AUS, its preety humid so thats good 😀, ill make sure to wear cotton clothing for sure, and what should i touch to get rid of static, wood connected to the floor, or metal (like a computer case).
cheers for the info mate
being summer here in AUS, its preety humid so thats good 😀, ill make sure to wear cotton clothing for sure, and what should i touch to get rid of static, wood connected to the floor, or metal (like a computer case).
cheers for the info mate
what to touch to remove static
Touch something well grounded. If there is some bare metal (ie. maybe the head of a screw) on your computer case, that would be good. If need be, you could get a power plug and just wire up the ground pin with a wire long enough to reach your work table. Another alternative is to get a grounding clamp that goes around a cold water pipe. (This only works if you have metal pipes all the way into the ground.) The grounding clamp has a place to insert a wire, and a screw to hold the wire in there.
Touch something well grounded. If there is some bare metal (ie. maybe the head of a screw) on your computer case, that would be good. If need be, you could get a power plug and just wire up the ground pin with a wire long enough to reach your work table. Another alternative is to get a grounding clamp that goes around a cold water pipe. (This only works if you have metal pipes all the way into the ground.) The grounding clamp has a place to insert a wire, and a screw to hold the wire in there.
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