Has anyone tried an Icosahedron (20 sided with triangular facets.)

This might be hard to get "good looking."
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Any Comment on the frequency response of that 2.5 inch Panasonic driver?
It seems like a good find when compared to response curves I have seen in the forum or on manufacturers / sales sites.

CHECK ON YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS
Thanks
Jeremy
 
Dave,

Maybe at the end of the run but for now I am mainly interested in a single or duel driver. I was thinking of getting 4 of the CHR70 drivers and placing 1 direct and 1 the next facet up. I have to check what works with a cabinet volume of .7753ft.

But to think about it I could possibly mount 20 of the buyout parts express "TV" speakers. I don't want to spend a lot on drivers that I can not use in another quality build. If I were to purchase the CHR70 or equivalent quality driver they can always be used elsewhere with known success.

I might just do it cause I think you might be kidding me a little.


CHECK ON YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS
thanks
Jeremy
 
Dave,
Yes the CHR70 fits, The cab facets were designed to handle max 5 inch bezel.
The volume is 22L.

I am not apposed to any type of box / alignment..
I have no clue about your alignment on the Onken styled cabinets but could it work adding the vents on the outside traveling from a slot around the enclosure?

thanks
Jeremy
 
Starting on the support woofer enclosures. I am going with the duodecahedron as it is a lot easier for the 8 inch woofers. These things are going to be big. Sorry Dave I only have 2 woofers per base bin.
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And here is one of the cats making sure my panels are safe.

thanks
"A clean shop is someone else's shop" (at least sometimes)
Jeremy
 
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Update
I really like the sound that these boxes seem to have. I have used 2 very different drivers and they both sounded very reasonable for a starting point. In fact I had to throw together a fast F.A.S.T OB out of a set of some old instrument speakers I had lying around so that I could continue the body work on the 20s. I was listening to them every day instead of working on them. Traditional box and crossover speakers just aren't doing it for me right now.
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Yes I know that they have a long way to go. The primer is to make the imperfections pop so they may be addressed.

Jeremy
 
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Update,

OK so there is so much humidity that it takes many days for anything to dry sand-able. Glue stays rubbery, primer just rolls off.
So whey not just start on the the low end cabinet assembly.

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What are Your opinions on bracing?

thanks
Jeremy
 
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What are Your opinions on bracing?

Something new to think about. I didn’t figure my small one would need any and teh triangular panels naturally resist resonance, but that might need rethinking.

Given 20 panels, i am guessing that there are actually 10 pairs of parallel sides. Taking that thot to its logical endpoints makes for bracing more difficult to build than the box i suspect.

dave
 
Please tell me you're going to paint numbers on the other 19 sides.
Funny you should mention that. No One gets what I am describing (outside of this and other design based forums,) until I say "It's the 20 sided D+D dice." They then lose the blank glazed over eyes and say. "Oh that's cool."

I can't and don't blame them for not under standing. It's a FAST 2.1 with icosahedron sats and a dodecahedron duel driver sub. I mean, reading it out sounds ridiculous.

Jeremy
 
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Something new to think about. I didn’t figure my small one would need any and teh triangular panels naturally resist resonance, but that might need rethinking.

Given 20 panels, i am guessing that there are actually 10 pairs of parallel sides. Taking that thot to its logical endpoints makes for bracing more difficult to build than the box i suspect.

dave

Dave,
The 20 sided are not getting braced unless absolutely needed as determined by testing. The 12 sided sub cab looks as if it will need something. I can work the angles out just need a suggestion of which surfaces to connect.

thanks
Jeremy