The most important tools I forget to mention are Akabak simulation software and my UMM-6 mic and REW software. Those don't cut plywood either but tell you whether or not you should cut plywood. 🙂
You can take the Tabaq and put an equivalent tube port (same cross sectional area and length) near the bottom and it would work pretty well. I probably have a straight MLTL for this driver in my files somewhere - just need to dig it up. This is probably a great candidate for an Accidental MLTL (AMLTL) technique.
Accidental MLTL Technique
Basically make a tall (36in long box) with appropriate width for the W4 driver, say 5 or 6 in wide. Use a bass reflex program to calculate the ideal volume for the tuning frequency the program suggests. You can tweak it a little bit depending on the Qts of the driver. The BR program will give you a volume, and a vent dia and length. Use this volume to calculate your box depth given the length and width you have set a priori. Mount the driver 1/3 of the way from the top, install the vent say 2-3 inches from the bottom or on the bottom if on legs to elevate the vent off the floor. Put stuffing in upper 1/3 of TL from top to just behind driver. Line 2 of the 4 walls with felt or other damping material. That will produce a BR in the worst case, but due to its length, it will naturally have 1/4-wave mass loaded TL action for deeper and cleaner bass with more control of the cone.
If driver Qts is 0.6 or larger, you can push tuning deeper than normal. For instance, the TC9FD has Qts of 0.89, its fs is 125Hz but it tunes to 55Hz.
Are there benefits to an MLTL for this driver if I'm not trying to tune it much below its fs of ~75 hz? I'm interested in putting these into a needle like tower but don't need crazy extension since I'll run them with subs (it's a pretty low QTS driver anyways). I might cross them to a tweeter too since I've found these to be just too beamy for my living room listening.
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