Has anyone got MLTL (ported) box plans for the Tang Band W4-1337SDF

[IRONHAND54]

Looking to build a couple of sets of speakers for my grand kids for christmas gifts this year. I kind of like this driver for what I have in mind for them. I plan on buying them the SMSL SA36 pro 24vDC version T-amp to power them with, so they can use their tablets for music.


thanks,
Mac

*measurements in inches would be wonderful!

 

[IRONHAND54]

Sorry for the all capitals!! Bad on me!! Military habits die hard!!!

Forgot to mention that I am looking for something that is no more than 36 inches tall. I did look at the Tang Band/tabaq thread, and it is not what I'm looking for. I want a straight box with a tubed port.

Thanks,
Mac

 

[xrk971]

You can take the Tabaq and put an equivalent tube port (same cross sectional area and length) near the bottom and it would work pretty well. I probably have a straight MLTL for this driver in my files somewhere - just need to dig it up. This is probably a great candidate for an Accidental MLTL (AMLTL) technique.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/231951-accidental-mltl-technique.html

Basically make a tall (36in long box) with appropriate width for the W4 driver, say 5 or 6 in wide. Use a bass reflex program to calculate the ideal volume for the tuning frequency the program suggests. You can tweak it a little bit depending on the Qts of the driver. The BR program will give you a volume, and a vent dia and length. Use this volume to calculate your box depth given the length and width you have set a priori. Mount the driver 1/3 of the way from the top, install the vent say 2-3 inches from the bottom or on the bottom if on legs to elevate the vent off the floor. Put stuffing in upper 1/3 of TL from top to just behind driver. Line 2 of the 4 walls with felt or other damping material. That will produce a BR in the worst case, but due to its length, it will naturally have 1/4-wave mass loaded TL action for deeper and cleaner bass with more control of the cone.

If driver Qts is 0.6 or larger, you can push tuning deeper than normal. For instance, the TC9FD has Qts of 0.89, its fs is 125Hz but it tunes to 55Hz.

 

[Jim Shearer]

Hi Mac,

I just bought the SMSL SA36 pro 24vDC. I love the sound of this amp, but the 24 VDC SMPS puts out more RFI than I have ever seen before! I am about to buy a nice Meanwell (IIRC) 24 VDC SMPS from Parts Express-- the PS will cost be close to the same as the amp, but oh, well... at least it will have decent shielding.

Cheers, Jim

 

[xrk971]

Jim Shearer,
I find that basic 19v SMPS for laptops work very well and are quiet. I use $6 ones from Amazon (replacement No name 19v 4.65amp). You may want one with a jack that fits the SMSL. The SMSL 36a is one of the better ones out there. Make sure you get the SMSL version with that uses the TPA3118D2 from TI and not the Tripath TA20xx.

 

[IRONHAND54]

Hi Mac,

I just bought the SMSL SA36 pro 24vDC. I love the sound of this amp, but the 24 VDC SMPS puts out more RFI than I have ever seen before! I am about to buy a nice Meanwell (IIRC) 24 VDC SMPS from Parts Express-- the PS will cost be close to the same as the amp, but oh, well... at least it will have decent shielding.

Cheers, Jim

The power supply that came with the one I bought off Amazon for my daughter, to drive her CHR70.3M /Pencils is dead quiet! I like the tube like quality of the sound it produces. You may have gotten a bum power supply, or you may want to use a reasonably priced power strip, that has filtering. My daughter has hers plugged in to a power strip that has filtering, so that may be the ticket.


Hope This Helps,
Mac

 

[IRONHAND54]

You can take the Tabaq and put an equivalent tube port (same cross sectional area and length) near the bottom and it would work pretty well. I probably have a straight MLTL for this driver in my files somewhere - just need to dig it up. This is probably a great candidate for an Accidental MLTL (AMLTL) technique.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/231951-accidental-mltl-technique.html

Basically make a tall (36in long box) with appropriate width for the W4 driver, say 5 or 6 in wide. Use a bass reflex program to calculate the ideal volume for the tuning frequency the program suggests. You can tweak it a little bit depending on the Qts of the driver. The BR program will give you a volume, and a vent dia and length. Use this volume to calculate your box depth given the length and width you have set a priori. Mount the driver 1/3 of the way from the top, install the vent say 2-3 inches from the bottom or on the bottom if on legs to elevate the vent off the floor. Put stuffing in upper 1/3 of TL from top to just behind driver. Line 2 of the 4 walls with felt or other damping material. That will produce a BR in the worst case, but due to its length, it will naturally have 1/4-wave mass loaded TL action for deeper and cleaner bass with more control of the cone.

If driver Qts is 0.6 or larger, you can push tuning deeper than normal. For instance, the TC9FD has Qts of 0.89, its fs is 125Hz but it tunes to 55Hz.

X,
I knew you would give me something to work with! Thanks my friend!! If you are digging around in your files, and run across the HxWxD and port length /diameter, shoot me the info in a P.M. I know it will be a proven design, as you have built many speakers.


Thanks, Mac

 

[IG81]

This Tang Band driver seems to be an extremely close cousin (TS parameter wise) to the W4-1320SIF bamboo cone. If you change your mind and want to go towards more of a bookshelf design, I have a DCR built for these that I enjoy quite a bit. Your driver should be a shoe-in. The main difference appears a tad larger Vas, which is fine as my enclosure is a bit on the large side for the bamboo unit anyway. Check out my thread about them for more info.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/236541-tb-w4-1320sif-double-bass-reflex.html

There is no plan or cut schematic, but it's easy enough to figure out from the external dimensions being 15.75" high, 8.5" wide and 7.25" deep and my using 0.75" nominal plywood, 18mm in reality. The upper chamber is ~3L and the lower one ~6L, so you have an internal division splitting the enclosure 1/3 - 2/3 and a vent between both chambers, same as the two external vents. These are all 1.375" in diameter and 4" long. They are actually unmodified polypropylene sink drain pipes from the hardware store. They have a small lip at one end and fit nicely in a 1.5" hole. They produce tunings of ~70Hz and ~140Hz.

 

[IRONHAND54]

Thanks for all the help you guys gave me!

After looking over all the inputs I got, I have formulated a plan to modify the TABAQ TL design, with a tube type port. I think the outcome will be fine for a couple of teenagers who may crank the volume from time to time. I think the Tang Band's should be able to withstand a little cone excursion and remain intact in that design?😱

Thanks,
Mac

 

[IG81]

Fullrange drivers are somewhat auto-regulating in the sense that they'll often start sounding terrible before getting to the mechanical or thermal damage point. 🙂 Just tell the grand-kids to take it easy with the dubstep. The W4-1320SIF can do fair SPL in a small/medium room, I assume their Ti-cone cousin should fare similarly in the mid/upper-bass range at least.

Not dead-on-topic but not straying too much - do you feel the W4-1337SDF to be beamy in the high frequencies? While the W4-1320SIF hits a solid 20kHz on axis, you quickly lose this with little head movement.

 

[IRONHAND54]

Not dead-on-topic but not straying too much - do you feel the W4-1337SDF to be beamy in the high frequencies? While the W4-1320SIF hits a solid 20kHz on axis, you quickly lose this with little head movement.[/QUOTE]


To be honest, I have only listened to them sitting in the shipping box for about 20 to 25 minutes. I did listen to You Tube videos of folks demoing them in their builds. I think they have a lot going for them throughout the listening spectrum. They have a good bass line and the vocals/highs seem to be pretty smooth without the scream in your face, that some drivers exhibit.

Mac

 

[IG81]

The W4-1337SDF seems to break-up above 10kHz and have a raised shelved response up to 20kHz. It's not necessarily a bad thing, as it might make for a better power response. A bit of extra toe-in so as to put the listener slightly off-axis is often useful in these cases.

 

[IRONHAND54]

I think we are kind of blessed in a way, by being able to use the graphic equalization features of modern music generated via tablets and computers to adjust the spectrum of what we hear. I do not plan on using a BSC for this build, as it kind of ruins the idea of using a full range driver, but I am going to help my grand kids adjust the music to their liking via the equalization features of their tablets.

Mac

 

[IRONHAND54]

I see a lot of folks in this forum who do a build, and then throw in another $50.00 worth of high end electronic components or Mini DSP's at a $100.00 a pop, when they may have been able to accomplish the same thing by using something that is already there! To each his/her own, but to me it just does'nt make a lot of sense? BTW I demo'd the drivers in the shipping box with my old trusty Marantz 2245 with the Bass/Mid/Treble adjustments and I thought the sound of the drivers was going to be 100% of what I was looking for once I get them in stalled in the build.

Mac🙂

 

[xrk971]

I stocked up on buyout inductors at PE for $2.50 ea (2.5mH w/ ferrite core and 1.0mH without core) and a handful of 5R 10W resistors - to be able to roll my own BSC's for most typical speaker boxes. You can always unwind to get lower values. The Dayton DATS is great for measuring capacitors and inductors. I hate it when a BSC costs as much or more than a driver, but when it is about $3, a good value for what it can do to flatten response.

These guys are still available - a good deal. Keep in mind DCR is 1ohm.

http://www.parts-express.com/ferrite-core-crossover-inductor-25mh-21-awg-125-watt--269-303

 

[xrk971]

MLTL design for W4-1337SDF

Here is what I came up with that will have reasonable extension down to about 55Hz with good efficiency.

All dimensions are internal: 5.0in wide x 4.25in deep x 34in tall, 2.0in dia x 3.5in long round vent located 3.0in from bottom, driver located 1/3 of distance from top (11.3in). Put stuffing in upper 1/3rd and line 2 walls from 1/3rd to bottom with felt or fiberglass. Do not block vent. Put thick layer of felt in area directly behind driver and to side of driver to prevent back reflections. Looks like it should be a decent performer. Data includes a 0.40mH+2R+0.47uF all in parallel but in series before the positive terminal of driver for BSC. Skip if you plan on EQ.

SPL vs Freq:

Cone Displacement:

Impedance:

Impulse Response:

 

[IRONHAND54]

Thanks so much X! I am going to start the build soon, even though Christmas is a ways off. Got two sets of speakers to build, plus I am probably going to do a set for my little brother,as well. Much easier to do now that I got myself a small table saw, which sure beats a handheld circular saw/edge guide combo?


Thanks Again,
Mac🙂

 

[IG81]

Much easier to do now that I got myself a small table saw, which sure beats a handheld circular saw/edge guide combo?

I've upgraded similarly not too long ago, soooo much faster. 🙂

 

[xrk971]

Thanks so much X! I am going to start the build soon, even though Christmas is a ways off. Got two sets of speakers to build, plus I am probably going to do a set for my little brother,as well. Much easier to do now that I got myself a small table saw, which sure beats a handheld circular saw/edge guide combo?


Thanks Again,
Mac🙂

Tools make it so much better. You will need a router, a jig saw, a disc/belt sander, an orbital sander, a drill press, a miter saw, it goes on and on. 🙂

My tools: xacto knife, utility knife, hot melt glue gun, straight edge, tape rule, caulk gun, wire stripper/crimper, screwdriver. I would love a table saw but they make so much dust.

 

[IRONHAND54]

X, it would be kind of tough to cut 3/4" oak plywood with that set of tools that you are using? I figured you would have the "Full Monty," with all the builds that you have done, which BTW, I am sure you've probably lost count of by now!

Mac