I know, this is pretty strange coming from an amp guy...
In my search for good (and loud) sound, I began to realize that raw drivers can be purchased much cheaper than complete component sets from the companies we associate with good component sets. Has anyone tried this? If so, what are your favorite combinations? I'm looking to spend about $150-300 on the whole setup, and would like to be able to run at least 175W RMS. I can probably figure out how to design a crossover, at least one that looks good on paper.
As an added bonus, is it possible to find 2 ohm mids? Or, is it possible to utilize a garden-variety 2 ohm stereo amp more effectively? I'm looking for more power because we started to do a bit of retail using [lots of] RE Audio subs, and most people complain that existing speakers just can't keep up with vocals.
Thanks a bunch!!
Sergey Klypin
www.kbaudio.com
In my search for good (and loud) sound, I began to realize that raw drivers can be purchased much cheaper than complete component sets from the companies we associate with good component sets. Has anyone tried this? If so, what are your favorite combinations? I'm looking to spend about $150-300 on the whole setup, and would like to be able to run at least 175W RMS. I can probably figure out how to design a crossover, at least one that looks good on paper.
As an added bonus, is it possible to find 2 ohm mids? Or, is it possible to utilize a garden-variety 2 ohm stereo amp more effectively? I'm looking for more power because we started to do a bit of retail using [lots of] RE Audio subs, and most people complain that existing speakers just can't keep up with vocals.
Thanks a bunch!!
Sergey Klypin
www.kbaudio.com
You might want to consider bi (or tri) amping your components sets with a line level electronic crossover. This makes it easy to adjust the crossover frequency and the levels of the various drivers. You won't need much power for the tweeter, and I don't see how you can use up so much of the midbass power if you already have a subwoofer. If you want a 2 ohm load, you might want to parallel up 2 4 ohm midbass drivers.
I just can't see how someone can run out of power on the main speakers, unless they are not high passing them, or are using the head unit's amplifier.
I just can't see how someone can run out of power on the main speakers, unless they are not high passing them, or are using the head unit's amplifier.
Well, you and I don't need this much power. The vehicle in question has an RE Audio MT 15" sub in a 7 cu ft box, powered by a 2500W American Bass VFL 150.1. What might pass for a decent competition setup is someone's daily driver. The guy just wants his mids/highs as loud as the bass. I was just seeing if it's cheaper, otherwise better, to run one big set of speakers versus several regular component sets.
What HU are you using? My alpine 9855 is being used as an active three way crossover. This alows me to plug and play any drivers I want with having to worrie about building a crossover. If you are going to build passive crossovers then $300 starts to be a bit tight for two mids, two tweets and crossover componants. You will not find a set of componants that will keep up with that sub when he has it cranked. If you are looking for something that will sound good and go pretty loud then take a look at the new alpine componants. The mids are built like little subs and they can take some power. Another option is the adire audio extremis or re xxx componanat set.
If you look at diymobileaudio.com, lots of people do this, but I'm not sure about high power stuff. for instance, I'm using vifa mids and dayton tweeters w/ a passive x-over, *very* cheap but the tweeters only handle 15 watts. You might have better luck using planars or something with very high sensitivity. If you look at PE or madisound, there are many choices, more in the "home" category but many can be used in a car w/ no problems.
Look at vifa, seas, scan-speak, peerless, maybe davis...I know vifa makes drivers for CDT Audio, and I believe alpine, pioneer, and others use some of those brands for raw drivers.
Look at vifa, seas, scan-speak, peerless, maybe davis...I know vifa makes drivers for CDT Audio, and I believe alpine, pioneer, and others use some of those brands for raw drivers.
I'm using a DIY set consisting of C-Quenze 6 1/4" mids and it was Morel MDT44 tweets but I've now gone back to Image dynamics horns for the HF. I'm running these with a home made passive crossover.
if you want a loud front end start with horns (105dB/watt efficiency) and will go down to 1kHz (depending on the horn size and driver you can get down to 650Hz but I tend to find imaging suffers a little) and maybe run a couple of pairs of 4Ohm midbass wired to show 2Ohms per side (with most of your midrange info coming from the horns you don't need to aim the midbasses to get decent imaging).
if you want a loud front end start with horns (105dB/watt efficiency) and will go down to 1kHz (depending on the horn size and driver you can get down to 650Hz but I tend to find imaging suffers a little) and maybe run a couple of pairs of 4Ohm midbass wired to show 2Ohms per side (with most of your midrange info coming from the horns you don't need to aim the midbasses to get decent imaging).
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