Hello, I searched around on these forums a bit but couldn't find what I was looking for, so I'll just ask!
Anyone have plans for a 4x12 straight cabinet? A few details: my guitar is a seven string, tuned down to GCGCFAD, I believe that low G is G1, so 49 Hz. Cab should be suitable for clean, crunch, rhythm, and lead. I plan on using either 4x G12K85/100s or 2x G12K85/100s and 2xV30s, but if you think any other kinds of speakers would work better, I'm totally open to suggestions.
*Should the cabinet be ported or have a horn? I would like to cabinet to be on the smaller size, so if I want the bass response that I need, I figure I could port it or use a horn? Opinions on that?
*I would like to build the cab into a road case, like this cab:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3421572391_b7082bbf74_o.jpg
Any idea how to do that? Any plans would be great! Thanks!
Anyone have plans for a 4x12 straight cabinet? A few details: my guitar is a seven string, tuned down to GCGCFAD, I believe that low G is G1, so 49 Hz. Cab should be suitable for clean, crunch, rhythm, and lead. I plan on using either 4x G12K85/100s or 2x G12K85/100s and 2xV30s, but if you think any other kinds of speakers would work better, I'm totally open to suggestions.
*Should the cabinet be ported or have a horn? I would like to cabinet to be on the smaller size, so if I want the bass response that I need, I figure I could port it or use a horn? Opinions on that?
*I would like to build the cab into a road case, like this cab:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3421572391_b7082bbf74_o.jpg
Any idea how to do that? Any plans would be great! Thanks!
You won't need a high frequency horn if you stick to guitar speakers.
The short answer is, "Ports don't work for guitar speakers."
The longer answer depends on the individual speaker, but there's the rub. If you port a guitar cabinet, you're rather limited in speaker choices, as few have a low enough Qts, and not many of those are similar enough to be substituted for each other. (Don't be fooled by what you read on the internet, as most guitar cabs that have ports have them for cosmetic reasons. Of course you can swap speakers freely when the ports aren't tuned.)
The best way to get more bass in a 4x12 is make it a little deeper.
To make a road case, just build a box and make a cover for it. Double walls aren't needed (and will reduce the "liveliness"), simply brace the corners really well because that's where dropped boxes come apart.
This company (among others of course) has the hardware:
Speaker Builder's Supply Home Page
The industry standard is Penn-Elcom. It's worth shopping around, but shipping will eat the savings if you use too many sources.
As to speakers, you should first look at this:
TSC
Now that you realise guitar amps have a huge bass boost built in, you can relax about trying get your cab to actually go to 49Hz. 65Hz should be enough to give you a good thump. Myself, I'm fond of Warehouse Speakers: Warehouse Guitar Speakers | Warehouse Guitar Speakers Their Reaper 55 goes very low, and has a classic (think Hendrix) sound. For something more modern, I like the Retro 30 which is a 'better' V30. The ET 65s are also recommended for bass, but I haven't tried them so I can't tell you if the bass is low, or just loud. The new Liberator might even be better.
HTH, Keri
The short answer is, "Ports don't work for guitar speakers."
The longer answer depends on the individual speaker, but there's the rub. If you port a guitar cabinet, you're rather limited in speaker choices, as few have a low enough Qts, and not many of those are similar enough to be substituted for each other. (Don't be fooled by what you read on the internet, as most guitar cabs that have ports have them for cosmetic reasons. Of course you can swap speakers freely when the ports aren't tuned.)
The best way to get more bass in a 4x12 is make it a little deeper.
To make a road case, just build a box and make a cover for it. Double walls aren't needed (and will reduce the "liveliness"), simply brace the corners really well because that's where dropped boxes come apart.
This company (among others of course) has the hardware:
Speaker Builder's Supply Home Page
The industry standard is Penn-Elcom. It's worth shopping around, but shipping will eat the savings if you use too many sources.
As to speakers, you should first look at this:
TSC
Now that you realise guitar amps have a huge bass boost built in, you can relax about trying get your cab to actually go to 49Hz. 65Hz should be enough to give you a good thump. Myself, I'm fond of Warehouse Speakers: Warehouse Guitar Speakers | Warehouse Guitar Speakers Their Reaper 55 goes very low, and has a classic (think Hendrix) sound. For something more modern, I like the Retro 30 which is a 'better' V30. The ET 65s are also recommended for bass, but I haven't tried them so I can't tell you if the bass is low, or just loud. The new Liberator might even be better.
HTH, Keri
Try looking at Bill Fitzmaurice's site. A lot of what he has is PA-related. There is a plan (for a price) for a 2x12 or 2x10 speaker cab. The speaker baffles are aimed inward toward one another and are also aimed a slight degree upward toward the musician. I believe it said that a 4x12 or 10 box can also be made.
That 7th string makes it hard. People who say you don't need a ported cab for guitar are right but you have a hybrid guitar/bass. I don't know any guitar speakers that go so low. I think you are looking at a bass cab that can also go high. I'd go for some bass drivers and yes, maybe a horn. I think what you might end up with will look like a typical PA speaker.
maybe a 4x10 ported cab with a horn. Do you actually play the low open G? Have you gone to Guitar center and tried out some bass cabs?
I have asked around a bit on sevenstring.org forums, and they have recommended those two speaker types I am using. I have used both types a bit and am happy with the results.
I have two G12K100s in a ported 2x12 that sounds pretty damn good. If I build this new cab with ports, I can always plug em if it doesn't sound good, right? Same with a tweeter right, I can always just remove it and plug the hole? This seems like it would be sort of a hybrid PA/guitar/bass cab.
Mainly I just need help with the physical construction of the cab. Like some sort of step by step with pictures.
I found this:
Fuzzcraft.com | How to build a flightcase or road case | Photography, audio and light DIY projects
Which seems to have all the parts I will need to make it into a flight case. The only thing I am wondering about are the side panels. Standard flight cases use a sort of plastic material that I would like to use for this cab. It was not listed on the above link, as the author just painted the wood on the sides. Any idea what this stuff is called? Is it just the prelaminated wood he was talking about? I was thinking it was just like a plastic sheet you glue to the sides of the cab.
TL;DR: I need help with four things: port size and location (including options to plug the vents if needed), picking a good horn (or two for stereo operation) as this is for a high gain amplifier, and I'm not sure how much distortion horns are designed to handle, cabinet dimensions (with port, with horn, with both and without both), and sourcing whatever the black plastic paneling is that is used on flight cases. I may or may not use a horn or ports or both.
Thanks!
I have two G12K100s in a ported 2x12 that sounds pretty damn good. If I build this new cab with ports, I can always plug em if it doesn't sound good, right? Same with a tweeter right, I can always just remove it and plug the hole? This seems like it would be sort of a hybrid PA/guitar/bass cab.
Mainly I just need help with the physical construction of the cab. Like some sort of step by step with pictures.
I found this:
Fuzzcraft.com | How to build a flightcase or road case | Photography, audio and light DIY projects
Which seems to have all the parts I will need to make it into a flight case. The only thing I am wondering about are the side panels. Standard flight cases use a sort of plastic material that I would like to use for this cab. It was not listed on the above link, as the author just painted the wood on the sides. Any idea what this stuff is called? Is it just the prelaminated wood he was talking about? I was thinking it was just like a plastic sheet you glue to the sides of the cab.
TL;DR: I need help with four things: port size and location (including options to plug the vents if needed), picking a good horn (or two for stereo operation) as this is for a high gain amplifier, and I'm not sure how much distortion horns are designed to handle, cabinet dimensions (with port, with horn, with both and without both), and sourcing whatever the black plastic paneling is that is used on flight cases. I may or may not use a horn or ports or both.
Thanks!
Last edited:
Alright, sweet! I'll look for the dimensions on that. I certainly am going for tone& frequency response over volume. Ported or with tweeter takes away from tone and frequency response?
Plugging a guitar into something designed for a flat frequency response makes a very undistinctive sound unlike a guitar amp. Commercial 4x12's have a bass boost and a midrange dip, and the drivers roll off the highs.
What amp and speaker are you currently using? How do you like it? Or maybe you don't as you are looking to replace it. So what don't you like about it?
I'm also curious how you play it. Sinfle notes? do 7 string chords work?....??
What you want is a sealed box with a common chamber. 4x12 will certainly play down to 40Hz with no problem. You don't want ports as that will give you gains and dips in the output depending on the frequency you are playing and the frequency the port is tuned to. The cabinet will be making one sound, guitar. It will not be reproducing all of the instruments of the band like mixed music through a stereo system.
You don't want crossovers involved as this will also create phasing problems with the sound so no tweeters. The guitar is the raw sound. You want the cabinet to be sealed. It will have higher power handling and it will play lower frequencies. Open cabinets will not do that.
You want the cabinet to be constructed out of high grade plywood for three reasons:
Plywood has grain which will resonate more and add color to the sound. This is good.
Plywood is more durable for a cabinet that will see road use.
Plywood is lighter so the cabinet is easier to move.
Using particle board or MDF is not the best for guitar cabs as they have more density and will resonate less. This characteristic is desired for cabinets that reproduce mixed music as you don't want the cabinet to add color to the sound, you simply want it to be solid and reproduce the sound it is playing without adding any artifacts.
You want to construct the cabinet with the joints braced but no cross bracing that will dampen the resonance of the panels. The joints and corners must be strong so it will not break apart but the panels should be aloud to add color to the sound. In a guitar cabinet the panels are an extension of the speaker. The cabinet will only be reproducing one sound, the guitar.
You don't want crossovers involved as this will also create phasing problems with the sound so no tweeters. The guitar is the raw sound. You want the cabinet to be sealed. It will have higher power handling and it will play lower frequencies. Open cabinets will not do that.
You want the cabinet to be constructed out of high grade plywood for three reasons:
Plywood has grain which will resonate more and add color to the sound. This is good.
Plywood is more durable for a cabinet that will see road use.
Plywood is lighter so the cabinet is easier to move.
Using particle board or MDF is not the best for guitar cabs as they have more density and will resonate less. This characteristic is desired for cabinets that reproduce mixed music as you don't want the cabinet to add color to the sound, you simply want it to be solid and reproduce the sound it is playing without adding any artifacts.
You want to construct the cabinet with the joints braced but no cross bracing that will dampen the resonance of the panels. The joints and corners must be strong so it will not break apart but the panels should be aloud to add color to the sound. In a guitar cabinet the panels are an extension of the speaker. The cabinet will only be reproducing one sound, the guitar.
Oh yeah, I have heard that. I wasn't thinking about using a tweeter to flatten the response, but more to take the high end load off the 12" speakers, which I heard allows you to get better bass response. Maybe the person who told me that was wrong. I was thinking the ports would just give better bass response too, not necessarily flatten the midrange response either.
Also, I understand using classic guitar speakers for more cleans and crunch sounds, but what about the idea of using speakers with a flatter response for high gain metal? Good or bad idea?
Right now I am using a tube amp of my own design. The preamp is high gain, but with warmer distortion and more bass response. Running 2xSovtek 6L6GCs and 2xJJ KT88s in the power amp. I'm pretty happy with how it sounds right now.
I'm currently using a 4x12 with V30s, and it sounds great, I'm just building an additional cabinet, not for more volume, but for more coverage (both sides of the stage) And I want my cabs to be built into road cases, but it might weigh too much or be too expensive to do. Places I play do not usually have a house PA capable of micing the guitar, and not sure I want that anyway. I was thinking about doing 2xV30s and 2xG12K85s per cab, or one cab with 4xV30s and one with 4xG12K85s.
I play two note power chords for rhythm parts, but I generally try to stick around C as the root note, that seventh string just lets me drop down lower if the part sounds like it needs it. Pretty damn happy with it so far. The only issue I have encountered is with the setup of the guitar. Either the pickups, or the neck or something is not giving me as much sustain as I would like. The decay curve on the notes sounds sort of abrupt. I have this problem on other amps too, so the guitar is the issue. It has a floyd rose bridge, but my six string with a floyd does not have this problem, so I dunno. I have heard people suggest that the problem could be with the seven string version of the pickups. Using an EMG60-7 on my seven string, and an EMG60 on my six string. EMG60 sounds great, but it might be the 60-7 on the seven string giving me problems. I still gotta contact EMG about that.
I love talking about gear haha.
I would suggest he was completely wrong - generally if you added a tweeter you simply filter the bass from the tweeter feed - you don't filter the treble from the bass units. Even if you did, it would make no difference - the percentage you would be filtering is miniscule, the only effect would be a loss of volume due to losses in the crossover.
You're not looking for better bass response for a guitar, they don't go that low or need that low a response. It's probably a good idea NOT to, which is why you use sealed boxes or open backed ones, to reduce unwanted bass response.
You could always try playing your guitar through a decent PA speaker, and see what it sounds like?.
You know I have found with guitar cabs especially, if you over engineer it sounds wrong too put it simply. I would suggest the Hendrix quad too. Keep it simple, this applies to the materials you make the cab with use ply 12mm and no baffling.
Find good quality plugs i suggest Neutrik and wire of good to high quality. This made the biggest difference with all speaker experiments.
Good luck.
Find good quality plugs i suggest Neutrik and wire of good to high quality. This made the biggest difference with all speaker experiments.
Good luck.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.