Guitar SE Amplifier with 6H

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#2
6P1P is a tube that does not direct US equivalent, but it's characteristics are pretty much the same as US 6AQ5, which in turn, has the same specs as 6V6, so one can say is that 6P1P is a 9-pin equivalent of 6V6. In order to use it, you need to remove the octal socket, install a 9 pin socket and rewire it according to the datasheet. http://tubedata.milbert.com/sheets/113/6/6P1P.pdf. The procedure is rather simple, just make sure you look at the champ schematics and solder caps, resistors and heater to the correct pins on the socket. Beware, that the sound is quite different, though...
 
#3
i am assuming getting parts is a problem considering your in cuba. the russian or chinese 6p6s will plug right in but is only rated for 250v on the plate i think. guitar amps tend to run high plate voltage. unless you bring down the plate voltage to 250 or less you may have trouble.

another option is use a loctal 7c5. it is same as 6v6 but just different base. the 7c5 may be found in old philco radios.
 
#4
The Champ uses some very high DC voltages for its output valve. Maybe a good test would be to make an adaptor from button base to octal socket and see how well it does. Could even have "flying leads" (wires between a socket and an old octal valve base).

All good fortune,
Chris
 
#5
You may also wish to try 6P3S. The regular version does not have the voltage capability of the sturdier 6P3S-E. I have blown a few 6P3S while using them to test a 6L6 amp I was building at 400 volts ultra linear, but the 6P3S-E were fine. I think I may recall the 6P3S being suitable as a 6V6 replacement and the 6P3S-E being more a 6L6 replacement. I have also built a push-pull guitar amp with the 6P6S as a 6V6 replacement. 6P6S states 250 volts for plate and screen, but the AX84 I built had about 385 volts on plates and screen and the 6P6S were fine.

Hope this is helpful and maybe give you some octal base equivalent in Soviet tubes.

Are you building one of these or just replacing tubes in an existing amp?

Cheers,

Chris
 
#6
I give thanks to all you for their kind answers.
All that you put me is correct and I know it
I leave of zero and I can make a transformer of power for 240-250v cd for the plate of 6p1p, I asked to you for some schematic to go to the insurance, because I would have to bising the valves too, I have several 6P1P and several 6H2N that I wanted to use and to know that such they sound.
In short, I want to make a "champ" with these valves and maybe already somebody had made it, or some experience with these tubes in SE amplifier.
thaks again

mahony
 
#8
:cop: Moving to Instruments and Amps per forum policy..

Mahoney welcome to the forum.. 😀

I think your idea to make a Champ clone with the 6P1P should be interesting and you can make the power transformer to suit the lower plate rating of the tubes you have on hand. Will probably sound a bit different than an actual Champ, but it might work quite well. Just don't make the OPT too good.. 😀
 
#9
I' sory , I am new in the forum and not know the rules yet, Ke4mcl thanks for the schematic it gives me some idea on and biasing.

I have the 12ax7 and the 6v6, but I have many Russian tubes I will experience with them and that better than a champ for this!!??,

I make the new modification of the schematic and the layout too, now mount it to adjust the biasing with the new voltages.
dont worry the OTP is not made by my!!! 5000/8-4 approx 7 watts, I think that this well. when I finish it I will comment the results.

thanks

mahony
 
#11
6P1P will hold 300V B+ with no problem (EV can take 330V). I've seen people replacing 6BQ5s in Marshal clones (pins have to be rewired), but B+ stays the same.

There is a number of guitar amps based on 6P1P and 6N1P/6N2P, etc. Below is a couple of links to the schematics. Would help if you can read/understand Russian... 🙂.

Guitar Amps
View image: ???? ????

I've built the first amp on the list, and I liked it more than a champ clone 5C1 with 6SJ7. Very clean, full bodied sound, with an crisp overdrive at the top.
 
#12
friend, I will read it with a lot of interest, for luck I have a technical Russian / Spanish dictionary.
I will feed him with 250v because it is an amplifier that I make from zero, I look for the appropriate bias before, this weekend I began to make the pcb and to weld some components. I then will comment the experiences
thank you for the nuisances.
 
#13
Muy Interesante!!I didn't imagine that a Russian equivalent valve to EF86 and that the amplifier feeds of 120 volts ca!!. it hurts that Sr Alexander didn't have another chassis!! 330v in plate !! the data sheet say 250v nominal!! any way I will keep it in mind.
the schematic give me ideas. thanks
 
#14
Hi,
Here the schematic preliminary, the layout and PCB.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3285/esquemapreliminar2.jpg
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4479/layoutpreliminar.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/5082/pcbpreliminar.jpg

In red / yellow is not definitive and it should be changed during the adjustment of the bias. I decided to feed the 6p1p with 250 volts in anode because in the one it dates sheet it appears as nominal

the chassis will have approximately of 260x200x40mm but I began first to make the piece of furniture (I warp) to adjust exacatamente the chassis at furniture.

this weekend I plan to advance a little and I will put some pictures
 
#19
Hello dear Mahony
"Por supuesto el esquema lleva algunas modificaciones la 6p1p trabaja con 250 voltios en placa y en esquema original la 6v6 se alimenta de 350, por tanto que hay que polarizar la 6p1p a su voltaje nominal de operacion (250V)."

In other words the text say that the in the original diagram the 6V6 works at 350 volts and then he mention that the 6p1p works in nominal range of 250 volts (datasheet reference).
I´ve read in other treads that the 6p1p can stand 350 in plates (you can look the datasheet graphs they go over 300 volts).
The only limiting factor would be the screen dissipation and with a voltage below 300 volts.
 
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