If you use my board, be sure to either turn T7 and T8 around if using a pin 3 emitter transistor, or else use a transistor with pin 1 as emitter.
Little update!!!
No change on the dim display but a rework of the entire output stage with 1% mica (except the 1200pf which is 1% styrene because I couldn't get mica!). Just waiting to listen now!
Also before Xmas, I added the SPowerD's (3) onto the transport. Not only are they ideal here due to the very low dropout, they are absolutely superb!!
I've also now added another 10 SEPC's. This player is really quite sublime now! Still got a few bits I want to do too!!!! I think I might also fit some HDAM covers too as I have spare. Don't think it will make any difference but it might look nice lmao!!!
No change on the dim display but a rework of the entire output stage with 1% mica (except the 1200pf which is 1% styrene because I couldn't get mica!). Just waiting to listen now!
Also before Xmas, I added the SPowerD's (3) onto the transport. Not only are they ideal here due to the very low dropout, they are absolutely superb!!
I've also now added another 10 SEPC's. This player is really quite sublime now! Still got a few bits I want to do too!!!! I think I might also fit some HDAM covers too as I have spare. Don't think it will make any difference but it might look nice lmao!!!
Looking good! 🙂
I've been tinkering with the transport's PCB as well during the x-mas holidays 😎
Mine has LT1963 regs now, and a bunch of Sanyo SVP's as well. The difference is clear: I should've done it a lot earlier!
Will post some pics if I have some.
Ray
I've been tinkering with the transport's PCB as well during the x-mas holidays 😎
Mine has LT1963 regs now, and a bunch of Sanyo SVP's as well. The difference is clear: I should've done it a lot earlier!
Will post some pics if I have some.
Ray
Cheers 😀
I also got rid of the original transformer by adding an additional winding for the display to the new output stage transformer. Still more I want to do like the final caps on the transport and I've still not regged the output stage. Now I have a higher voltage transformer, its next on the list! I'll probably drop another reg onto the DAC too like in Lee's 😀
I also got rid of the original transformer by adding an additional winding for the display to the new output stage transformer. Still more I want to do like the final caps on the transport and I've still not regged the output stage. Now I have a higher voltage transformer, its next on the list! I'll probably drop another reg onto the DAC too like in Lee's 😀
You've got an extra winding for the display heater on the tranny for the analog output supply?
I wouldn't do that, the heater voltage is directly connected to the -VFT voltage for the display. This will inject large amounts of noise from the display controller in the analog supply 😱 You should keep the analog supply as clean as possible.
Ray
I wouldn't do that, the heater voltage is directly connected to the -VFT voltage for the display. This will inject large amounts of noise from the display controller in the analog supply 😱 You should keep the analog supply as clean as possible.
Ray
9v 7va both windings for the clock 0.778A
12v 30va both for servo (3AC11 and 5AC11) 2.5A
12v 30va for audio output stage (8AC12 and 10AC12) 1.25A for each rail
Additional winding for the display
9v 15va both windings for the rest (1AC8 and 2AC8) although I want to split the supply to each bridge and add another transformer.
Not sure it's optimal yet but it's what I had available.
I did ask the question elsewhere with respect to transformer windings but I wasn't specific enough with the initial question and there was very little "advise" given with respect to adding additional windings. Surely it can't be any worse that the original set up??? Ultimately, I will add another small transformer for the display 😀
A separate tranny is the best solution indeed, this voltage should be treated as 'digital supply' regarding noise.
Still have to look into that display-brightness-thing by the way...
Still have to look into that display-brightness-thing by the way...
I changed the zenor voltage up but it made no difference!! Display is still too dim 🙁
Do you think lifting h1 and h2 might make it brighter Ray??! maybe 6v instead of 4.3v?
Do you think lifting h1 and h2 might make it brighter Ray??! maybe 6v instead of 4.3v?
Oh, I thought you meant that you fixed it with the new heater winding... never mind 🙂
Increasing the heater voltage may help, but the life span of the display will be shorter if it 'burns' hotter. I don't know what the nominal heater voltage is supposed to be for this display, so there's no way of telling what is correct.
Ray
Increasing the heater voltage may help, but the life span of the display will be shorter if it 'burns' hotter. I don't know what the nominal heater voltage is supposed to be for this display, so there's no way of telling what is correct.
Ray
I think Lee may have a fix for the dim display.......
Most definitely in the analogue engineering domain!!!!
Most definitely in the analogue engineering domain!!!!
Always curious to see a fix for that. I haven't looked into it yet, it's still on my to-do list 🙂
Ray
Ray
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It took a new window, the relocation of the IR sensor and a bit of work but the results are worth it.
The original window is so dark it's crazy.
Edit: I suppose I'd best say thanks to Brent for the new window.
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Nice 🙂
So a non-electrical fix, that's a good one 😀
Is this an original replacement window that is clear? I'd love to have one for my SA8400!
Ray
So a non-electrical fix, that's a good one 😀
Is this an original replacement window that is clear? I'd love to have one for my SA8400!
Ray
Hi Ray,
The replacement window isn't quite clear, it's just not almost black like the original!
I had to cut the new one down to size and file the edges to make it fit, but it was definitely worth it.
Lee.
The replacement window isn't quite clear, it's just not almost black like the original!
I had to cut the new one down to size and file the edges to make it fit, but it was definitely worth it.
Lee.
Very neat job. The original one is very dark indeed, during the day it's very hard to see anything on the display. Very annoying...
I WILL get this fixed, whether it will be electrical or mechanical!
Ray
I WILL get this fixed, whether it will be electrical or mechanical!
Ray
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