ELL80s, ELL80Es, or EL95s
As long as Daniel scooped up ALL my tubes, which he said he did, i should have all of those. Even som ebrand new EL95.
dave
For the rectifier Ill add a series resistor to get an appropriate drop. How close should I be to the specified output voltage? Schematic seems too specific...
I wouldn't fuss over it, such a few volts.....
Tubes are forgiving creatures.
I've restored dozens of old german consoles for customers, and decades later, I hear they're still playing beautiful music.
Tubes are forgiving creatures.
Tubes are mechanically fragile and electrically tough. SS is mechanically tough and electrically fragile.
If a critical negative rail (like a bias supply) was being rectified by selenium, compensating for the forward drop difference would matter. That's not the case here and within 10% of nominal is more than good enough.
cool.
great rule of thumb😀Tubes are mechanically fragile and electrically tough. SS is mechanically tough and electrically fragile.
I stared a git repo to keep track of my resources in case anyone wants them: Grundig_KS580_Restoration_Resources/README.md at master * ricardo-re-azevedo/Grundig_KS580_Restoration_Resources * GitHub
Before ordering anything I checked the main transformer but was getting weird values so I pulled it from the amp and bench tested and also plotted out the voltage selector wiring as a reference: Grundig_KS580_Restoration_Resources/internal_connections.JPG at master * ricardo-re-azevedo/Grundig_KS580_Restoration_Resources * GitHub
Here are my secondary voltages and DC resistance values at 120V:
Pink leads = 280V, 44.8Ohm (main voltage rail)
Green leads = 7.4V, .8Ohm (heaters)
Yellow leads = 12.5V, 44.8Ohm (Connects to screen grid? in circuit should read -10V)
Brown leads = 7.4V, .8Ohm (heaters for the associated radio. Not sure why they are here.)
Primary resistances:
Black-Red: 6.8Ohm
Brown-Grey: 7.8Ohm
Grey-White: 1.7Ohm
Continuity all ok. Unless anyone thinks otherwise the transformer looks ok. I suspect the issue is a failed rectifier, which will be replaced anyway. The 280V rail is already lower than recommended by ~5-10V so I don't think I will need a resistor to drop the voltage.
on to ordering.
Before ordering anything I checked the main transformer but was getting weird values so I pulled it from the amp and bench tested and also plotted out the voltage selector wiring as a reference: Grundig_KS580_Restoration_Resources/internal_connections.JPG at master * ricardo-re-azevedo/Grundig_KS580_Restoration_Resources * GitHub
Here are my secondary voltages and DC resistance values at 120V:
Pink leads = 280V, 44.8Ohm (main voltage rail)
Green leads = 7.4V, .8Ohm (heaters)
Yellow leads = 12.5V, 44.8Ohm (Connects to screen grid? in circuit should read -10V)
Brown leads = 7.4V, .8Ohm (heaters for the associated radio. Not sure why they are here.)
Primary resistances:
Black-Red: 6.8Ohm
Brown-Grey: 7.8Ohm
Grey-White: 1.7Ohm
Continuity all ok. Unless anyone thinks otherwise the transformer looks ok. I suspect the issue is a failed rectifier, which will be replaced anyway. The 280V rail is already lower than recommended by ~5-10V so I don't think I will need a resistor to drop the voltage.
on to ordering.
grundig used to name the unit:"klangtruhe". freely translated as "soundcabinet".
I learned this naming from a close friend of mine who has been director at grundig before they were purchased by philips. I sent him the picture..
I learned this naming from a close friend of mine who has been director at grundig before they were purchased by philips. I sent him the picture..
ah, cool. I wish I understood some German going into this. Any info from your buddy would be great. It would be nice to compile all the info on these old Grundigs.grundig used to name the unit:"klangtruhe". freely translated as "soundcabinet".
well, I sent him yr photo, and he said that he did not recognize it as a true german grundig. it was cobbled together with philips parts as much as his memory served. he is 80 now.. I did repair once his golden grundig tube amp signature series.
Interesting. Was this in the early 60s? I haven't found any Philips branded components on the electronics or any similar Philips designs from that period.
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