The bruce horn is a very large double horn designed for the FE207e. The printed specs for this driver model quite nicely in it and if the Q proves to be higher than printed then it will most likely produce bass that is a bit boomy and probably flabby, not too big of a deal for a center channel. I'd attach a pic if I could find my camera.
Good looking BVR and agree how it will likely perform, but why do you say it's no big deal for a CC? I mean even with a sub system to roll off much of its LF it still might 'color' the mids too much, so seems to me an OB of the same baffle area [or probably less in this case] would be the best choice overall. Regardless, the BVR's vents are plenty big enough to hold sufficient damping material to make it at least to near aperiodic if need be.
Anyway, hope you try them and report back.
GM
Well, I figure I already have these big beautiflul cabinets, that I don't want to use for mains, I have nowhere else toput them so I might as well put them to use. The chambers behind the drivers have been mostly filled in with MDF to kill resonance and if I set the center to small it should eliminate most negative effects. Here is a sketchup of what it should look like when complete.
Attachments
I own two of these drivers and while the bass is Ok, sealed or ported, the midrange is muddy and the highs non-existant. Best to cut off the wizzers and use them as woofers.
brsanko, that's nice, but that's a lot of nice woodworking for a cheap driver, just something to consider. MAybe start with the driver then get better ones later.
I caution cutting off the whizzer. On an 8" if you cut it off, the driver freq response will climb in response say from 1khz to 4khz (very harsh sounding) compared to flatish response b4 removing it.
Norman
I caution cutting off the whizzer. On an 8" if you cut it off, the driver freq response will climb in response say from 1khz to 4khz (very harsh sounding) compared to flatish response b4 removing it.
Norman
Midrange is almost always muddy in a sealed or ported full range, has anyone tried these in a horn, TL or OB? That might give me an idea of the actual midrange response of the driver before I blow my $26.
I've done B20s in TLs, MLTLs, OBs and consider them the absolute minimum acceptable for wide BW use, so considering that others have both and find the GRS not as good in the mids, treble is all I need to know to limit them to mid woofer duty.
GM
I wonder how it would do in Nelsons original b20 tl design? everyone is calling a driver that was famous for what it could do now being replaced by this. Whats the WORD???
The WORD is... they look like B20s and fit into the same hole... they are like the B20s twin sister... but the one that doesn't put out!
I bought one and wound up tearing it completely apart to find out what was wrong. In a word, everything. I recommended to PE that they remove all references to the Pioneer part. There is only the most superficial resemblance.
Goldwood GW-8003
Anybody given this one a try. Lower SPL, more expensive, but supposed better frequency response. Maybe not Pioneers twin sister, but possibly a cousin that likes to have fun.
Goldwood GW-8003/8 8" Full Range Driver w/Whizzer 290-379
Anybody given this one a try. Lower SPL, more expensive, but supposed better frequency response. Maybe not Pioneers twin sister, but possibly a cousin that likes to have fun.
Goldwood GW-8003/8 8" Full Range Driver w/Whizzer 290-379
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