I'm new to DIY AKSA but am assuming this fetzilla kit is a replacement board for existing owners of the GK-1 preamp. Is this correct?
.
no that is incorrect . it is an all fet power amp . and if Hugh doesn't reply for a few days it's because he's away at an audio trade show .
cheers Woody
MacDaddy,
Woody is 100% correct; it's NOTHING TO DO WITH THE GK1!!
I am in fact working on a replacement for the GK1, and have it nearly ready (in proto testing right now) but it won't be sold as a kit, only as a module, built and tested.
The FetZilla is not my design at all, I had some influence, but it's the brainchild of Greg, aka Swordfishy, with original inspiration by Lineup. It is an inexpensive way of getting into the high end all fet market at low cost with a professionally designed pcb.
Hope this clears it up, and many thanks to Woody..... and yes, I'm at the Melbourne Audio Show, organised by Brits actually, from Chester, and clearly focussed on audiophiles, the first show of it's type in 15 years in my town. (Something of a disgrace, no Oz organiser thinks audiophiles are worth the trouble, apparently!).
Here's the FetZilla GB2 list up to the minute, presently at 54 pcbs:
4P Sonocon Germany
4P Woody MA USA
4P Col_S Thirroul NSW Aust
4P RKH CO USA
2P Syklab HK China
4P Taniknight Safety Beach Victoria Aust
2P Sasha UK
2P PeteMcK Sydney Aust
2P Eparsons Woodinville WA USA
2P Ipolyakov CA USA
4P Mohora NY USA
2P Johnny2Bad ? Canada
2P Peter Rekkers The Hague Netherlands
2P Tome Macedonia (payment?)
4P Westley Matthews NC USA
4P TG3 Seattle WA USA
2P Ray MD USA
2P KP93300 Malaysia
2P Meanman1964
2P Pinnochio
Thanks Woody for your input,
Cheers,
Hugh
Woody is 100% correct; it's NOTHING TO DO WITH THE GK1!!
I am in fact working on a replacement for the GK1, and have it nearly ready (in proto testing right now) but it won't be sold as a kit, only as a module, built and tested.
The FetZilla is not my design at all, I had some influence, but it's the brainchild of Greg, aka Swordfishy, with original inspiration by Lineup. It is an inexpensive way of getting into the high end all fet market at low cost with a professionally designed pcb.
Hope this clears it up, and many thanks to Woody..... and yes, I'm at the Melbourne Audio Show, organised by Brits actually, from Chester, and clearly focussed on audiophiles, the first show of it's type in 15 years in my town. (Something of a disgrace, no Oz organiser thinks audiophiles are worth the trouble, apparently!).
Here's the FetZilla GB2 list up to the minute, presently at 54 pcbs:
4P Sonocon Germany
4P Woody MA USA
4P Col_S Thirroul NSW Aust
4P RKH CO USA
2P Syklab HK China
4P Taniknight Safety Beach Victoria Aust
2P Sasha UK
2P PeteMcK Sydney Aust
2P Eparsons Woodinville WA USA
2P Ipolyakov CA USA
4P Mohora NY USA
2P Johnny2Bad ? Canada
2P Peter Rekkers The Hague Netherlands
2P Tome Macedonia (payment?)
4P Westley Matthews NC USA
4P TG3 Seattle WA USA
2P Ray MD USA
2P KP93300 Malaysia
2P Meanman1964
2P Pinnochio
Thanks Woody for your input,
Cheers,
Hugh
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No, Syklab, I will be pulling the lever this week!!
MacDaddy,
What you suggest is in fact an integrated amp, with source switching and level control integrated into the amp.
This is how the majority of mid-fi Japanese and Chinese amps are configured these days, and it means you don't formally need a preamp, an expensive affair often made with phono inputs, tape loops, and all the palaver.
You can make the FetZilla in this way, but you would need expertise to configure the switching (the switch quality is VERY important!) and you would need to buy a very good attenuator - I would suggest a switched attentuator from Elco or Goldpoint or DACT. There is quite a lot of work in this endeavour - it's just switching and a 'pot', but there is a lot of wiring and it would be up to you. The pcbs supplied have only the power supply and power amp on board.
The audio show was very good and my amps and Frank's speakers really did attract a lot of attention. Some even said they thought it the best sound there - don't know about that, but it was certainly up there, particularly for resolution and involvement.
Hope this makes it clear,
Cheers,
Hugh
MacDaddy,
What you suggest is in fact an integrated amp, with source switching and level control integrated into the amp.
This is how the majority of mid-fi Japanese and Chinese amps are configured these days, and it means you don't formally need a preamp, an expensive affair often made with phono inputs, tape loops, and all the palaver.
You can make the FetZilla in this way, but you would need expertise to configure the switching (the switch quality is VERY important!) and you would need to buy a very good attenuator - I would suggest a switched attentuator from Elco or Goldpoint or DACT. There is quite a lot of work in this endeavour - it's just switching and a 'pot', but there is a lot of wiring and it would be up to you. The pcbs supplied have only the power supply and power amp on board.
The audio show was very good and my amps and Frank's speakers really did attract a lot of attention. Some even said they thought it the best sound there - don't know about that, but it was certainly up there, particularly for resolution and involvement.
Hope this makes it clear,
Cheers,
Hugh
Sandyhooker,
Gold plating is the easiest of all things to solder. I'm not sure why there is a problem, but I would not use steel wool or chemicals.
I think the problem might be the solder, and perhaps the heat on the iron. I use Multicore 0.71mm thin 60:38:2 tin/lead/silver, and have no problem at all. You only touch the surface and it wets almost immediately.
SH, I'd suggest that Kester might be hard to apply, and that a change to plain, good quality 60:40 is worth a try.
And check your iron is nice and hot, with a very clean tip.
Hope this helps,
Hugh
Gold plating is the easiest of all things to solder. I'm not sure why there is a problem, but I would not use steel wool or chemicals.
I think the problem might be the solder, and perhaps the heat on the iron. I use Multicore 0.71mm thin 60:38:2 tin/lead/silver, and have no problem at all. You only touch the surface and it wets almost immediately.
SH, I'd suggest that Kester might be hard to apply, and that a change to plain, good quality 60:40 is worth a try.
And check your iron is nice and hot, with a very clean tip.
Hope this helps,
Hugh
Hi,
Two boards with parts for me!
Thanks
Do
When and where is payment required?
Thanks
Do
Hi Do,
When I receive the shipment, and I am ready to ship out, I then call for paypal payment, and not before. This way I don't incur the wrath of people who have paid but wait for two or three weeks, always uncertain if a tenuous internet contact will actually come good with the product.
I will post more details later, but until I receive the board shipment, NO PAYMENT PLEASE!!
Cheers,
Hugh
When I receive the shipment, and I am ready to ship out, I then call for paypal payment, and not before. This way I don't incur the wrath of people who have paid but wait for two or three weeks, always uncertain if a tenuous internet contact will actually come good with the product.
I will post more details later, but until I receive the board shipment, NO PAYMENT PLEASE!!
Cheers,
Hugh
Hi Hugh,
Great to meet you at the hifi show and to listen to your products (and thank you for ensuring my better half had the comfortable seat... very important). The display was very impressive and I found the reference monitor sound of the Grover Notting / NAKSA combination to be right up my ally. If the Fetzilla even approaches such quality I'll be very happy. Now to find/build a pair of speakers that can keep up... unfortunately the GN's are a little out of reach at the moment.
Cheers,
Tani.
Great to meet you at the hifi show and to listen to your products (and thank you for ensuring my better half had the comfortable seat... very important). The display was very impressive and I found the reference monitor sound of the Grover Notting / NAKSA combination to be right up my ally. If the Fetzilla even approaches such quality I'll be very happy. Now to find/build a pair of speakers that can keep up... unfortunately the GN's are a little out of reach at the moment.
Cheers,
Tani.
My great pleasure,
Nice to meet you and your lady.... I thought you both charming and smart.
I was interested to hear your recording experience, you've done it all... people are always so complex, and you only find out when you ask!
I agree the Code 5 GNs are very good, incredibly resolving and flat, and they go very loud. Why more people don't use sealed boxes is beyond me, they sound much more musical and controlled.
You could always build the VSonics, around $2K all up, and up there with the best transmission line speakers in the world!
Thanks for coming to the show; we will meet up again on the Peninsula,
Cheers,
Hugh
Nice to meet you and your lady.... I thought you both charming and smart.
I was interested to hear your recording experience, you've done it all... people are always so complex, and you only find out when you ask!
I agree the Code 5 GNs are very good, incredibly resolving and flat, and they go very loud. Why more people don't use sealed boxes is beyond me, they sound much more musical and controlled.
You could always build the VSonics, around $2K all up, and up there with the best transmission line speakers in the world!
Thanks for coming to the show; we will meet up again on the Peninsula,
Cheers,
Hugh
Need some advice..having some problems with solder flow on gold surfaces.Perhaps they need cleaning. What might be the best approach ?? Using
Kester solder . Is there a recommended solvent ??
Thanks for good advice.......
You need to use a eutectic (flowing) type solder like wonder solder or Cardas. Kester makes lots of different solders. It all depends on the solder composition. If you use to older type, with lead, that will flow better than the newer lead free types.
You need to use a eutectic (flowing) type solder like wonder solder or Cardas. Kester makes lots of different solders. It all depends on the solder composition. If you use to older type, with lead, that will flow better than the newer lead free types.
I use Kester Tin, silver, copper myself and it works pretty good.
It could be just the soldering iron that does not get to the right temperature...
Group Buy FetZilla #2 Update
Latest order list, now at a staggering 60 pcbs!!
4P Sonocon Germany
4P Woody MA USA
4P Col_S Thirroul NSW Aust
4P RKH CO USA
2P Syklab HK China
4P Taniknight Safety Beach Victoria Aust
2P Sasha UK
2P PeteMcK Sydney Aust
2P Eparsons Woodinville WA USA
2P Ipolyakov CA USA
4P Mohora NY USA
2P Johnny2Bad ? Canada
2P Peter Rekkers The Hague Netherlands
2P Tome Macedonia (payment?)
4P Westley Matthews NC USA
4P TG3 Seattle WA USA
2P Ray MD USA
2P KP93300 Malaysia
2P Meanman1964
2P Pinnochio
2P Jozua South Africa
2P Huy Melbourne AUST
Along with the documentation for convenience.
Cheers,
Hugh
Latest order list, now at a staggering 60 pcbs!!
4P Sonocon Germany
4P Woody MA USA
4P Col_S Thirroul NSW Aust
4P RKH CO USA
2P Syklab HK China
4P Taniknight Safety Beach Victoria Aust
2P Sasha UK
2P PeteMcK Sydney Aust
2P Eparsons Woodinville WA USA
2P Ipolyakov CA USA
4P Mohora NY USA
2P Johnny2Bad ? Canada
2P Peter Rekkers The Hague Netherlands
2P Tome Macedonia (payment?)
4P Westley Matthews NC USA
4P TG3 Seattle WA USA
2P Ray MD USA
2P KP93300 Malaysia
2P Meanman1964
2P Pinnochio
2P Jozua South Africa
2P Huy Melbourne AUST
Along with the documentation for convenience.
Cheers,
Hugh
Attachments
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FETzillapartslist.doc32 KB · Views: 97
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FetZillbuild1.doc142.5 KB · Views: 102
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FetzillaSCHEM.gif53.8 KB · Views: 374
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FetzillaPSschem.gif29.7 KB · Views: 371
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FetZillaPhaseS.jpg108 KB · Views: 376
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FetzillaPCBcompL.gif123.2 KB · Views: 370
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FetzillaPCBovlRight.gif40.9 KB · Views: 357
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FetzillaPCBovl.gif27.2 KB · Views: 117
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FetzillaPCBcompR.gif125.5 KB · Views: 117
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