Hey guys I'm using the GLB from Elliot sound, the question is: what less expensive diode bridge could I use in place of 35A bridge rectifier?
N.B. Is for a tube preamp.
TIA
Felipe
N.B. Is for a tube preamp.
TIA
Felipe
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Am I allowed to suggest that you test it if you modify it in any way?
There is a mistake in that ESP diagram.
The Mains PE wire should be directly connected permanently and mechanically to the Chassis.
The Disconnecting Network(DN)/(ground loop breaker) should NOT break into the PE direct connection.
Conect the DN direct to Chassis at the DN location.
ESP has been told but has not corrected the error.
And ESP does not usually give permission to post his diagrams.
There is a mistake in that ESP diagram.
The Mains PE wire should be directly connected permanently and mechanically to the Chassis.
The Disconnecting Network(DN)/(ground loop breaker) should NOT break into the PE direct connection.
Conect the DN direct to Chassis at the DN location.
ESP has been told but has not corrected the error.
And ESP does not usually give permission to post his diagrams.
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![WP_20161125_004[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/543/543194-c42e64bd65ddac0ebd61905c6dada211.jpg?hash=xC5kvWXdrA)
test it !
It may have to pass upto 10kA.
That's the rating of the MCB often fitted at your mains distribution board.
Mine are rated at 6kA, some are 5kA
They are rated that high because the mains voltage into a shorted Live line can pass Fault Currents that approach these values in domestic installations.
Commercial/Industrial mains impedances can be much lower and require even higher rated breakers.
you have clearly not understood Fault Current when a mains wiring fault conducts to the PE protected enclosure.
Have you read my report when I tested a DN to check that it survived longer than the fuse during such an incident?
Well, 35A are a couple of euros, I don't see what could be cheaper with same ratings- even if i sent you one I salvaged for free, postage would cost more than that...
No, but it will be interesting to read.
Personally, I have earthed all ends of my audio pieces at the same cable, so no possibility of any such currents.
Sorry, I don't see any math, any drawing, any table, any simulation, any... in post #9.
AndrewT is correct about the huge possible fault current and the needed safety.
But I don't know where is report is.
But I don't know where is report is.
In the Elliott Sound Products paper:
Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques
- How to eliminate hum without affecting safety
Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques
Figure 3 is correct about the importance of bonding to the chassis.
But figure 4 should show the Protective Earth/Safety Ground going directly to the chassis first and only then to the Loop Breaker Circuit.
Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques
- How to eliminate hum without affecting safety
Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques
Figure 3 is correct about the importance of bonding to the chassis.
But figure 4 should show the Protective Earth/Safety Ground going directly to the chassis first and only then to the Loop Breaker Circuit.
The bridge needs to survive the fault current for long enough to trip the breaker or blow the fuse. A 35A bridge may survive a few 100A for a few seconds, which should be long enough. A smaller bridge would be fine if you could guarantee that it would fail short circuit, but I suspect that you can't. In fact, I suspect that for most purposes people would prefer a rectifier to fail open circuit so that is probably what they often do.
The ground breaker should withstand to break the fuses you have in the wall at least. I think a 35 A bridge is a good choice.
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