Ground Box, what is inside?

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Another one here High-Tech for Luddites: The CAD 1543 Mk II DAC, CAD CAT Transport, Trilogy Audio Systems 925 Integrated Amplifier, and Verity Amadi Loudspeakers | Stereophile.com


TDA1543 DAC, non metallic case for DAC and a ground box
CAD had also deployed a device called the Ground Control, which is aimed at reducing noise on ground wires, both signal ground and true earth ground. Ground Control prices range from $1995 to $21,500. Cables are an extra $350.


But it must be good, they reference an AD white paper at the end of their marketing blurb on measuring ground noise :D http://www.computeraudiodesign.com/CAD_Ground_Control.pdf
 
a device called the Ground Control

Ground Control to Major Tom..........


Non-switching, one would suppose?

A properly implemented switcher might not be a problem. It seems however that these lights are not all implemented identically.
It would be nice if I could light much of my workspace from one common DC supply, but that might mean making up my own light fixtures, or rewiring the ones that I have.
 
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Dan, you've been telling us for years that you will 'show the proof' and, well, nothing ever materializes.

You are no doubt a splendid chap, but not to put to fine a point on it, the only conclusion we can draw is that its all in your mind.

you provide entertainment value, but nothing more. Only you can fix that mate.

:)
 
Hello,

From past experience with fluorescent lamps, found that putting an X rated .01 micro farad cap across the line close to the lamp side of the power switch, pretty much eliminates any RF picked up by any radio. Keeps RF out of the power leads and house wiring which can act as antenna's as well.

Of course to be absolutely safe, you should put a resistor across the cap such that the cap will not stay charged when power is turned off. A 120,000 ohm resister will do the job and not use much current.

Costs very little if you shop surplus caps and works quite well. IMHO.

Regards,
Greg
 
Dan, you've been telling us for years that you will 'show the proof' and, well, nothing ever materializes.
You are no doubt a splendid chap, but not to put to fine a point on it, the only conclusion we can draw is that its all in your mind.
You provide entertainment value, but nothing more. Only you can fix that mate.:)
Hi Andrew, yes it is true that this has been a long time coming, extraordinary claims require extraordinary proofs, I have the proofs now.
The last part of your second sentence indicates 'preconditioning', that's ok, everybody has 'learnings'.
Today I have opportunity such that I can shut down house power so that I can run loopback recordings without undue influence that will demonstrate variability in interconnect performance.
I have a couple of tracks (at least one of Scotts YT racks are band limited to 11kHz) that are suitable for demonstrating the effects I speak of.
Andrew, name a favourite track that I can hunt down and I will process it for you and post a Dropbox link so that you can audition for yourself.

Regards, Dan.
 
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It would be nice if I could light much of my workspace from one common DC supply, but that might mean making up my own light fixtures, or rewiring the ones that I have.
LED strips are now common and reasonably priced. I use them for under counter lighting in kitchens and bars. Generally 12Vor 24V. Not hard to get clean DC for that, right?
 
LED strips are now common and reasonably priced.

That's where I'm going. My aging eyes need lots of light for things like soldering and playing with sharp tools, so the super bright LED shop lights will stay over these areas, on their own switch. The shop lights are useful for some of the photos I take, and must be turned off for things like scope pictures and for tube dissipation checks. I have an old Sony camera that "sees" infrared quite well, so you can tell if you are on the edge of red plate. It shows up first as a pale purple, then pink, and finally red.....unless you turn it all the way up to a yellowish white.

I have begun running strips of 12 volt RGB around and over my music workstation. There are a couple of 12 volt "10 watt" white LED's with dimmers for spots. Old CPU heat sinks work well for keeping them cool.
 
Andrew, here's a session I did last night.
The 'Flac file is the original, the other three are loopback recordings with near as dammit to unity gain.

POS means pos elcheapo bootlace 2RCA-2RCA cable used as loopback cable, CUST means custom cable incorporating GOOP in construction.
Naked means bare POS loopback cable, FERRITE means clipon ferrite filter at load end of POS cable.
Of course there is some change from the original flac file to loopback recordings but Rightmark reports next to nothing distortion and noise at -100dB.
Dropbox , enjoy.

Dan.
 
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LED strips are now common and reasonably priced. I use them for under counter lighting in kitchens and bars. Generally 12Vor 24V. Not hard to get clean DC for that, right?

From all the various LED light clusters we have laid out (traffic lights, strip lights, vehicle lights, runway lights etc.) the one concern has been heat and the life of the led's. They are all designed to be run off a pulsed supply and these I have in my living room (commercial grade) have a warning that running at full power continuously will shorten the life expectancy, whether that would be an issue we won't find out because even 3/4 output is bright (12W/m 40m run in two recesses...). So I wonder whether pure DC being on all the time will have a detrimental effect on the led life, as heat is being generated constantly. Myself I would choose the solid LED strip lights on metal clad PCBs, you could fit it in a metal housing and get more heatsinkink. The flexible strip lights are limited in the heat they can dissipate, but cheaper and more convenient to fit, though I did use ali housings with diffracters.
I have thought about it myself, because the quality of drivers is OKish, but they are mass produced and bad ones do slip through, I,ve had to replace one due to a dodgy MLCC singing loudly, accompanied by some! electrical noise... Due to the low current I run them of a decent filtered extension and connected to the light ring to help further isolate any noise, from socket supplies.
As said though using higher wattage you can run them at 50% or less power and still be blinded.
Oh I like 4500K for general, 3000K low for films and 5500K for working and photography. With the recesses lights you get shadow free illumination as well.
Now back to Dan's results:)
 
I inspected the files and the results are exactly what I knew and expected from previous experience: POS with ferrite vs without is identical all the way down into the noise, and POS vs CUST gives a residue that is dominated by linear differences from cable length and capacitance. Just a tiny bit of resulting group delay difference. The residual therefore sounds like a severely highpassed copy of the original. If a proper amount of sub-sample shifting were applied the difference would again be a zero way down in the noise.
 
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