Thanks. that's interesting. All the used ones on eBay look so bad that I don't even want to consider buying them, and they want too much money for them!
I'll just have to save up for a new one.
Thermopile optical, thermocouple, thermistor. All would work.
Place a gold ring around your finger against any power rf and you will feel the heating. Was the first and last time I didn't remove all jewelery. Thankfully no injury
Sorry to respond a long time later.
I just discover that my Hakko 936, bought in Israel through Ebay, is pure fake.
I think the tip will soon have to be changed, it is oxydised.
I am very disappointed.
Now l think to buy an ERSA Pico or a PACE ST50-PS90.
Regards
Despite I am a bit angry against all the "marvelous" Ebay stuff.
I'll go that way if I can't get serious tips otherwise.
I owned a very old Weller, same tip since at least 5 years.
Regards.
If you look into the hole of a real Hakko soldering tip you should see a copper slleeve. They dont last as long due to possible internal corrosion. Have tips that are over ten years old and enought spares to last a lifetime.
Flip side of that coin is an old Weller station I've had since getting out of the military in '84 and am still using the same tips! Sadly this station has been rebuilt far too many times and should have been replaced (tossed into bin) long ago. Still works, but has issues.
The Hakko on the other hand is like new condition, never requiring a rebuild. Have spare silicone cord and heating element just in case
I like my ERSA i-con'pico
it is ready almost instantly you push the power switch
and that is really great
I just bought a Metcal supply from eBay for around $50. Works fine even though it looks really used. The tendency to slap labels and tape all over the stuff in production environments does nothing for the appearance. However they are built like tanks and really durable.
partly based on demian's advice, I took the plunge on metal and am enjoying it immensely. most of the ebay gear is very high priced or looks like it was abused to hell in a production environment. I was really lucky to find a 'home unit' that was not all farked up and came complete with handle, stand, main psu and even a starter tip. $150. admittedly, this was a true deal and not usual, but it can be found if you keep looking.
my trafo hums, though, and so that's probably why the guy was selling it. I guess that's one question to ask sellers. it may not have stopped me buying it, but I would have liked to know this beforehand. its the mx500 series unit that I'm talking about.
in the past, I've used weller, hakko, pace and now metcal. been soldering for over 40 years and now having 'fun' learning about metcal stuff. if you have not tried it and if you can try it out, do consider it.
my trafo hums, though, and so that's probably why the guy was selling it. I guess that's one question to ask sellers. it may not have stopped me buying it, but I would have liked to know this beforehand. its the mx500 series unit that I'm talking about.
in the past, I've used weller, hakko, pace and now metcal. been soldering for over 40 years and now having 'fun' learning about metcal stuff. if you have not tried it and if you can try it out, do consider it.
So I have a new i-Con Nano and my initial impression is somehow mixed. The iron is light and nice to use and this is what I like. Also - heats up really fast. On the other hand, it is clearly evident that people at Ersa have cut some corners but not to make it affordable but not to cannibalize the selling of i-Con 1. To set heating up curves or sleep time, one have to make a config to a micor SD card and insert it into the station and this repeats every time you need to change a setting. Working with lead free solder on PCBs with modest conducting planes makes the iron struggle to keep it up - the heat is there but it takes a moment or two to make things flow. I also have my doubts regarding the durability of the tips - we will see about that. Push buttons feel and click cheap. The bottom line is - it is good soldering station, especially for tiny stuff, if one can accept the price point and all its peculiarities. If I have to make a choice again, I'll probably go for a i-Con 1 or JCB.
I am sorry Tinitus is not there anymore because I would have been glad to tell him I purchased an ERSA Pico a few days ago and it behaves like he told.
The station is nice looking, the iron is light and heats quicky, and my first impressions are of a good feeling towards its general ergonomics.
It would take 3-5mm chisel profile for ground planes and thick enough cables at its wattage. Have you tried with such tips?
P.S. At what temperature setting you tested with lead free? It takes 380C+ setting for that type.
Nice that you got one too in the end. Lars was always reporting genuinely indeed. For semi-pro use you couldn't go much better at that price.
Yes, I've been gentle on the station so far but I'll definitely switch to a more aggressive settings. Just spent EUR 50 in higher quality flux and soldering paste as I managed to ruin a 2704 DAC chip on trying to solder it with the power well soldering tip (the one with a small hole in it). It is the firs time I ruin a chip and so far I have been using a EUR 5 Chinese soldering iron, which is quite nice for its price, indeed.
I'm waiting for some of the local dealers to have 40mm angled face tip (102ADLF40) for tinning. So far tinning is one of the things that give me a hard time doing. I was considering a DIY chemical tinning at home because I have found out that worn out photographic film fix if full of silver and pouring a copper plate in it will start a replacement reaction where the PCB will be covered in silver but this leads to fast corrosion so I'm back to old school soldering iron tinning technique.
The station is not bad at all, it just takes some time to get used to it and I can clearly spot where the hand of ERSA's marketing had come to cut corners.
By the way - I have the impression that the more sophisticated tools I'm using, the lower my skills become. See, temple of Delphi and the Pyramids were built using wooden beams and bronze chisels...
You mean a "hoof" or "spoon" tip for drag soldering. The secret is lots of liquid flux and practice on already dead or useless tiny pitch chips until you get the knack of it. Some do it with a chisel tip dragging along from the side vs with a hoof dragging above.
New tools and techniques are frustrating to start all over again indeed. But rewarding in the end.
New tools and techniques are frustrating to start all over again indeed. But rewarding in the end.
P.S. Here is a nice video on using the angle cut tip (bevel). Professional SMT Soldering: Hand Soldering Techniques - Surface Mount - YouTube
I know that video and it is really helpful so I'm watching it again. Highly recommended!
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