Room interaction is not such a big deal for those who use low volumes and sit close.
There's not much point in spending £big on a CDP if the rest of the system is poor. The CDPs merrits won't show.
There's not much point in spending £big on a CDP if the rest of the system is poor. The CDPs merrits won't show.
IanAS said:
That's not me
I like to listen moderately loud and as far away from the speakers as possible. Altho I can't deny the headphone-like charm of listening close-up.
IanAS said:
You have two ways: or you buy good $tuff, or you make it.
I didn't say you really have to spend big money to have a good source.
My Philips CD650 cost me a few Euros and sounds like a million dollars, extensively modded.
It costs big money to buy this sound.
But we are diyers, aren't we?
The point is, a better source is always an improvement for any system.
Good speakers on a poor system may only reveal the nastyness and become unbearable to listen. It's not always a step forward, if the ancilliaries are not up to it.
Carlos is your 650 anything like the Philips CD960?
Does it have the CDM1 mechanism with the U shaped board under it with a load of push on connectors and the long wire to the distant SAA7210?
If so, have you modified the U shaped board esp the earthing and the components around the quad op-amp that sources 4 of the laser receiving diodes (the ones for gain and focus offset)?
Does it have the CDM1 mechanism with the U shaped board under it with a load of push on connectors and the long wire to the distant SAA7210?
If so, have you modified the U shaped board esp the earthing and the components around the quad op-amp that sources 4 of the laser receiving diodes (the ones for gain and focus offset)?
Just wondering.
(sorry, bad english. And i'm new at diyaudio.)
I tryed my new ad797 at a friends system, and that sounded realy bad.
Is it eny tricks? have any sugestion(??)?
I'm not good, but try to learn!
Also many opa541, 627, 637 an so on. But want to try my 797.
Any sugestion is a good sugestion 😀
Thanks:
PKS.
(sorry, bad english. And i'm new at diyaudio.)
I tryed my new ad797 at a friends system, and that sounded realy bad.
Is it eny tricks? have any sugestion(??)?
I'm not good, but try to learn!
Also many opa541, 627, 637 an so on. But want to try my 797.
Any sugestion is a good sugestion 😀
Thanks:
PKS.
IanAS said:
It has a CDM2 transport.
It may be "similar", but not the same.
IanAS said:
It's a CDM2, but it has a similar "U" shaped board.
IanAS said:
I did something on that board, long time ago.
I remember installing some PSU bypass caps around the op-amp, and all new electrolythic caps on the other board under the mechanism, but I can't remember exactly what I did more on the transport.
I'm running the CDM2 tranport from a regulated PSU.
Re: Just wondering.
I warned you.😀
PKS said:I tryed my new ad797 at a friends system, and that sounded realy bad.
I warned you.😀
Hope?
So, Carlos....
No hope at all?
What opa do you sugest then? 627, 637? who is the best of all opa's..?
And one more thing..? i am building an sub-amp. Opa541 or 549?
Thanks for all tips.😀 😀 😀
PKS
So, Carlos....
No hope at all?
What opa do you sugest then? 627, 637? who is the best of all opa's..?
And one more thing..? i am building an sub-amp. Opa541 or 549?
Thanks for all tips.😀 😀 😀
PKS
opa
Don't limit yourself....
The OPA227 and OPA228 are also excellent choices.
Also the new RC4560 is not half bad.
Don't limit yourself....
The OPA227 and OPA228 are also excellent choices.
Also the new RC4560 is not half bad.
I'm not talking about comparing a decent source with a complete piece of cr@p. Instead, if you take a look at the average set of the diyaudio.com visitor, I can assure you, the speakers and the room will be the weakest link.carlosfm [/i]The differences can be as large as that said:
Agreed!
No no no...Speaker-room interaction does not have a lot to do with the psysical size of the speaker. It's all about the room properties , placement and the bass allignement of the speakers. Forget their size, even a compact monitor can sound like a boombox with a overly heavy bass response and a 6' giant can sound bass shy.
If your cdp and phonostage are as good as you say they are (phono beats Linn if I recall correctly), you definately need to upgrade your speakers. They're pretty darn good considering the price, but any 2-way has its limitations, even if the listening room isn't that large and the listener doesn't have a bass fetish 😉
You are lightyears ahead of me in the field of electronics and consequently in modding, but you really need to open up your world to loudspeakers and acoustics. Even better, DIY yourself a pair...or two...or more 😀
With all this OT talk about louspeakers, the least I can do is ask a an on topic question 😉
Does anybody have experience with the LT1028?
I read elsewhere that it is like “putting sugar all over your sound. It has a very liquid, sweet, and warm midrange that exhibits sharp bass and treble roll off. Unlike the Analog Devices op-amps, it is not dark. In fact, low level details flow through with greater clarity and definition.”
Does anybody have experience with the LT1028?
I read elsewhere that it is like “putting sugar all over your sound. It has a very liquid, sweet, and warm midrange that exhibits sharp bass and treble roll off. Unlike the Analog Devices op-amps, it is not dark. In fact, low level details flow through with greater clarity and definition.”
Yes!! I have a few I recieved last week from the local LT sales rep. They are indeed quite nice, maybe even better than the 627, and at least equal to the 637.
The LT1115 is even better, but you really have to bypass it well, and it is very sensitive to capacitive loads, so a cap in parallel with the feedback resistor is prudent if you think a capacitive load is possible.
Hans L said:
It has.
Hans L said:
Of course, it also has.
Years ago I spent hours placing my speakers properly.
The place is maked, and it's spot on.
Hans L said:
Ha!
You don't know them, do you?
A pair of ~1000€ speakers that beats much more expensive ones.😉
I've heard lots of speakers, nah... for me the Epos are perfect.
That lack of bass is not true, the guys that review them on the mags use inferior amps.
They only work with very good amplification.
They have impressive dynamics, more than enough for my room and for me.
I like TIGHT and fast bass, I don't need more.
But I also have my (diy) sub, so...
Hans L said:
Of course I did, several.
But you have to listen to the Epos with a good amp and you'll soon find out that nothing sounds so natural and neutral.
An that midrange is to
for.I did make speakers with SEAS units, which I have on my bedroom, but they don't sound as the Epos.
Even diying I would have to spend lots of $$$$ with very expensive units to get a better performance than the Epos speakers.
And notice: it's impossible to diy the Epos cabinets, which are part of the secret.😉
Russ White said:
Can you make a woofer molded to the front panel?
The front panel is the woofer, it's a one-piece thing.
No screws to hold the woofer.
Also, the woofer is optimized so that it doesn't need a crossover.
So, this speaker only has a cap and a (parallel) resistor in the tweeter.
Very transparent.😉
You can diy the (double
) wood cabinet, though.The speaker is completely "dead" when you knock it.
This is something special, and who doesn't know it can't understand, which is normal.
I know I could diy something better, but it would be hard and very $$$$.
I have other priorities.
I love my speakers.
😀
There are some people who have plenty of time, and money. 🙂 I wish I was one. Still the fact remains, I bet someone has DIYed something at least as good as your dear (and I am sure quite good) Epos.
carlosfm said:
I should think this is done for cost saving.
carlosfm said:
1st order X-over, hmmm, I'm not so sure that's all that good really. Sure there is a big advantage in not having x-over components messing up the signal, but steep x-over slopes have their advantages. Bass mid drivers tend to have peaks in the 5kHz region than need removing.
XELB said:
No it's quite common, at least gluing the diaphragm to the front panel is, and has been for many years. Kef and Bowers and Wilkins, at least, also have/do employ this method. As i said, cost saving.
The Epos probably cost very little to make, like all commercial speakers, as many corners are cut as possible or they can't sell them at a price that will actually sell, never mind make Epos, the dealers and shops a good profit.
Re the LT1028. I was under the impression that this was a slow sounding chip. I've not heard one myself. It's very low noise isn't it? But a pal who has used them many years ago has progressed on to the AD847 or 827 (the dual). He has these everywhere, CDP, preamp, all active x-over filters.
Carlos,carlosfm said:
what is the direct relationship between loudspeakersize and bassreponse? The answer ofcourse, is 'none'. You are talking about the indirect link between loudspeakersize and bass response on average. Do you not agree with the part of my previous post where I state that a small speaker can sound bloated and a large speaker can sound bass shy. 😉
Only by reputation. But I don't need to hear a compact 2-way to be absolutely certain that is can be improved by a 3-way... Two major, simple reasons:
1) 'Real' bass is physically impossible coming from a 5-7" midbass unit other than using it as a headphone.
2) If you relieve the midunit from doing heavy bass duties, the midrange will gain transparency.
It will not help that the unit is optimized to be used without a LP filter. The unit's response does not fall off magically, but by its Le. Tell me the difference between Le in a voicecoil and the Le of a series aircoil other than that the series aircoil will likely have lower Re 😉
There are so many speakers that beat much more expensive loudspeakers, that one has to wonder wether there are any 'expensive loudspeakers' leftover to be beaten 😀
...
LT1028: thanks guys for the feedback.
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