Going to vinyl need opinions.

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any others outside of the ones recommended , the LP12 is my reference but does not have to be my 1 st choice going into analog again ..

Thorens TD150MkII, TD160MkII with Rega or Jelco/Audioquest arms.
Systemdek IIX with Rega or Jelco arms.

These decks will come close to entry level LP12 for less money. You can even use a 60Hz Valhalla with the IIX, not sure with the Thorens as they have different motors.

Jeff
 
I'm an LP12 kind of guy, myself, but I have owned other turntables, like Thorens. It, to me, is the easiest table to use, because of the felt mat. The mat removes static better than most things. I have owned 3 LP12's. Two were burnt up in a fire. I was glad to get my 3'rd one, years later, however. Are there better tables? Yes, I have heard a few, but not without price and hassle playing each record.
 
I presently have a Ariston Audio RD60 with a Unipivot tone arm. Had it for quite a few years. It is in storage in my barn as I don't have a working cartridge and head amp. Was thinking of bringing it back, or making my own turntable. I like some of the wooden platter ones I have seen here. The tone arm will have to be purchased or re-used as my skills are not at that level yet.

Will start reading on the riaa head amp though. Couple of those looked interesting.
 
I feel a little baited by Mr. Curl's comments and I mean no disrespect to him with what follows.

I can't think of a single "upscale" turntable that is a bigger pain in the @ss than the LP12 to work on or keep level and I consider keeping a turntable level paramount to achieving some level of performance.
 
I'm an LP12 kind of guy, myself, but I have owned other turntables, like Thorens. It, to me, is the easiest table to use, because of the felt mat. The mat removes static better than most things. I have owned 3 LP12's. Two were burnt up in a fire. I was glad to get my 3'rd one, years later, however. Are there better tables? Yes, I have heard a few, but not without price and hassle playing each record.


Hello Mr Curl ,

I guess our familiarity with the LP12 makes for not having a problem with the setup as suggested by Chris , as i have never thought of the LP12 as having a setup problem, well anymore that most as all tables will require "setup" to make them right some more than others , but setup non the less for optimum performance ....
 
another vote for the Audio Sector (Peter Daniel) phono stage. My total dollar outlay was roughly $450 including the chassis and custom faceplates. I didn't go with the recommended V-caps, but used Relcaps instead. Great for a low output MC, it actually worked rather well with a Dynavector 10x5 too.

I use an old VPI HW19 Mark III which is a nice suspended turntable. Considering the budget Rega RB300 tonearm, I'm quite happy with this setup. But I'll admit I'm casting my eye on more expensive solutions.
 
I had a 20 and now happily use something much cheaper that I don't have to worry about my spouse or anyone else touching.

a.wayne, what kind of price range are you looking at?

Although I fear I am beating the war drums, the Technics SL1200 is a nice sounding table, and overall find myself to be a proponent of direct drive over belt these days. A Technics SP10, Garrard 301, or Thorens TD124 are worth the trouble if you have the time, money, and patience.

My 1200 has the stock arm, Denon DL103r with UWE snakewood body, stock cable (god forbid!), and Peter Daniel phono stage. The sound is mind bogglingly good for a very minimal investment.


I'm fortunate that I have a dedicated room, no kids and a spouse who understands. I've no worries about anything other than my own klutziness..

I'm using a Zu/Denon DL-103 with Partridge 977 transformers which are available for the time being very inexpensively.. Strangely perhaps, of the transformers on hand these are by far the most synergistic and sound absolutely great running wide open.. (They are probably also by far the least expensive, are well shielded, hum free, and a great match to the DL-103) The arm for the moment (don't ask me why) is an SME 3009 Series II which strangely enough bolts right on and sets up just fine.. I doubt any 3009 has been installed on a better table.. Point?: Consider one of these vintage SME arms, the only arm I would avoid would be the S2 Improved with plastic knife edge bearings...

Other tables to consider would be the TD-125 MKI/II which IMHO is a better table than the later TD-150.. More trendy and hence more expensive would be the TD-124 which you might still find for a song if you really look hard.
 
I am hopelessly hooked in DIY. Boiling the headamp down to a couple of circuits. In addition I have scrapped the idea of repairing my old turntable/arm and decided to build a Schroeder arm and a new turntable. The table will be a combination of several designs posted here, including the very beautiful wooden turntable posted here. Will keep you posted on the design which I will get into earnest as soon as I finish building my wife's kitchen cabinets and finish the trim.
 
uni-pivots...

I presently have a Ariston Audio RD60 with a Unipivot tone arm. Had it for quite a few years. It is in storage in my barn as I don't have a working cartridge and head amp. Was thinking of bringing it back, or making my own turntable. I like some of the wooden platter ones I have seen here. The tone arm will have to be purchased or re-used as my skills are not at that level yet. /I]

A good working uni-pivot is a thing of beauty... you'd be surprised how good a decent one can be. I guess it depends on what you have access to for machining equipment or how much $$$$ you have 🙂

One think few seem willing to look at is the impedance mismatch between the vinyl and the platter. Wood answers that question nicely.
 
I presently have a Ariston Audio RD60 with a Unipivot tone arm. Had it for quite a few years. It is in storage in my barn as I don't have a working cartridge and head amp. Was thinking of bringing it back, or making my own turntable. I like some of the wooden platter ones I have seen here. The tone arm will have to be purchased or re-used as my skills are not at that level yet. /I]

A good working uni-pivot is a thing of beauty... you'd be surprised how good a decent one can be. I guess it depends on what you have access to for machining equipment or how much $$$$ you have 🙂

One think few seem willing to look at is the impedance mismatch between the vinyl and the platter. Wood answers that question nicely.


I've had several uni-pivots including the very funky Mayware Formula IV which worked very well with some care and moderately high compliance cartridges, but the best uni-pivot I've owned was a heavily massaged AudioCrafts AC-2000 MKII - a very, very nice arm with interchangeable arm wands that could be re set up very quickly for different wands and cartridges. This was also hydraulically damped and was altogether a great arm, sadly in a moment of disgust with analog I gave it and the TT it was on to one of my closest friends where it soldiers on to this day. Don't fret, now I've got a very nice SME set up that clobbers anything I've ever owned.. 😀

The SME has a platter that is designed to be impedance matched to the vinyl, and has a very odd material incorporated into its surface. I think that acrylic platters provide very good impedance matching to vinyl and can be very effective. Good center and peripheral clamping is probably the next most important thing..
 
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