but would like to clarify the order of the steps before I begin.
1) apply the tri-foil pattern using danmar?
2) treat the cone using Mod Podge, two thin layers and one on the dust cap.
3) apply the EnABLE pattern using the flat model rail road paint.
4) Do I need or should I post treat after the EnABLE pattern?
I have spent hours reading the EnABLE posts and above it what my basic understanding is less the fine details. Just looking for confirmation before I
begin 🙂
1) apply the tri-foil pattern using danmar?
2) treat the cone using Mod Podge, two thin layers and one on the dust cap.
3) apply the EnABLE pattern using the flat model rail road paint.
4) Do I need or should I post treat after the EnABLE pattern?
I have spent hours reading the EnABLE posts and above it what my basic understanding is less the fine details. Just looking for confirmation before I
begin 🙂
Contact Dave at Planet10 directly - he has a fair bit of experience with this exact driver/treatment
Just checking in before I begin. Went to the local craft store and found Mod Podge and Damar Varnish. I understand the Mod Podge should be thinned, something like the consistency of automatic transmission oil, or so I read somewhere. As for the Damar it is to be used right out of the bottle. My only concern is that it seems really this and runny. Any chance I have the wrong stuff?
see reply #2 above
I think Dave has more experience with this particular driver/treatment regimen than anyone, mr P included
Sorry, i didn't respond because by the time i read your email Highef had already answered the question. (see post #3)
The only thing i have to add, is practise on some drivers you don'y mind if you muck up...
Yes damar is runny. If you overload your brush, it will run.
dave
The only thing i have to add, is practise on some drivers you don'y mind if you muck up...
Yes damar is runny. If you overload your brush, it will run.
dave
That's OK, I sure your really busy which is why I posted my question here. I figured someone, or you, would come along with the answer. As for practice, I don't have any old speakers but I did pick up some art paper that seems to be about the same consistency as the Fostex cones. But if I mess things up I'll just order a pair from you Dave 😀
The main factor for having success in trifoil/enabl is practice, indeed. I did it a lot before doing on the drivers. Do some tests with damar using a brush or a q-tip. It seems to me that the latter has less chance to run during the application.
regard
HF
regard
HF
Dave shows some templates to make the trifoil pattern with two speaker cones cut to shape. Mark the two radii and then carefully connect the dots (one dot for each point on the inner radius and outer radius.) Doing it freehand, I did not have much success in practice.
Last edited:
OK, just finished with the damar tri-foil application. No runs and the patterns are very close to being the same but they are not exact (oh well). I'm going to let these dry until tomorrow then I'll apply the gloss Mod Podge which I am going to tint black with food coloring. I'll try to take some pic's along the way 
From what I can gather, the tri-foil pattern is to tame a peak in these particular drivers. Is this correct?
With that in mind, is it beneficial to treat other drivers in this fashion? The subjects in this case would be some Pio A11s and a pair of Hemptone(Tone Tubby) FR5's. To be clear,this question only applies to the tri-foil treatment.
With that in mind, is it beneficial to treat other drivers in this fashion? The subjects in this case would be some Pio A11s and a pair of Hemptone(Tone Tubby) FR5's. To be clear,this question only applies to the tri-foil treatment.
Yes, the tri-foil (in conjunction with the puzzlekoat) is aimed at taming the 7k peak.
Similar technique might be beneficial on other drivers, but you'd have to figure out where to put it and what "shape"
dave
Similar technique might be beneficial on other drivers, but you'd have to figure out where to put it and what "shape"
dave
- Status
- Not open for further replies.