Hi guys, I have to thank you very much for yr kindly co-operation!
Well, after reading yr comments, it seems the best I have to do is using high quality 0.3uf input caps as Auricap or Mundorf instead of the supplied 3.3uf caps for 500Hz and above. For 500Hz and below, I'll use Solen 3.3uf for input caps and will change the 2,200uf bulk cap for a 15,000uf stiffener cap. Also, will leave off the PCB' voltage regulation. Sounds it good?
Concerning the chassis issue posted by BWRX, is a hard job to synchronize the switching frequencies? How may I do it? (If it is a really hard job, I'll use two aluminium boxes to assemble them as separated ones...)
I'm not sure, but Morel' sensitivity should be 88db; anyway I thing it wont be a matter since I heared a Sonic Impact adapted for car application (but without any mod on the components) running two Seas 5" mid ranges which have lower sensitivity and it sounded great, with a nice bass!!
So, all comments will be much appreciated!!
Rgds 😀
Well, after reading yr comments, it seems the best I have to do is using high quality 0.3uf input caps as Auricap or Mundorf instead of the supplied 3.3uf caps for 500Hz and above. For 500Hz and below, I'll use Solen 3.3uf for input caps and will change the 2,200uf bulk cap for a 15,000uf stiffener cap. Also, will leave off the PCB' voltage regulation. Sounds it good?
Concerning the chassis issue posted by BWRX, is a hard job to synchronize the switching frequencies? How may I do it? (If it is a really hard job, I'll use two aluminium boxes to assemble them as separated ones...)
I'm not sure, but Morel' sensitivity should be 88db; anyway I thing it wont be a matter since I heared a Sonic Impact adapted for car application (but without any mod on the components) running two Seas 5" mid ranges which have lower sensitivity and it sounded great, with a nice bass!!
So, all comments will be much appreciated!!
Rgds 😀
panomaniac said:
No, we are talking about BASS, PSU caps!
He said that with 2.200uF the amp lacks of bass!
What I told him was, if he is using the amp from 500Hz to 20k Hz, it's better a PSU with some (small)caps in parallel because big capacitance caps lose their ability to store energy in high frequencies(above 5kHz).
XELB said:
Sorry SoundBrasil, it was my mistake....
If you are using the amp from 500Hz to above, it's better if you use some small caps in parallel.
If you going to use just one 15.000uF cap, try to add a small 100nF plastic cap directly in the 15.000uF pins 😉
In Portuguese:
Desculpa cara, não li direito 😉
Se tivesses condensadores de 4,700uF tenta colocar onze desses e depois compara com apenas um condensador de 15.000uF 😉
Verás que nas médias altas frequencias o desempenho é diferente.
SoundBrazil said:
OK, I read this again, my mistake. He is asking about the PSU cap for the bass side.
On the bass amp, you must leave the Panasonic 2200 (or 1800) cap number 1819 in place. If you wish to add a large 10000uF or 15000uF "stiffener" cap, then it can go in parallel with c1819.
But because you are not using the voltage regulator, you can also put it in parallel with C99, the big black cap. All of these will now be tied directly together. C99 and C "stiff" will give you lots of reserve power; C1819 will add the fast response.
For your high/mid amp the same is true. You can do without the extra stiffener cap, I need be. But the Stiffener will give you better dynamics even on the mids.
I was talking about input caps C14 C15. For the bass amp use 2.2uf or 3.3uF For the high/mid amp, use 1/10th that value. 0.2 or 0.3uF.
Hope that's clear!
Hi friends,
Ok, I think everything is clear now concerning PSU and input caps!! If I decide to use stiffener caps to the mid/highs also, I'll do it using some small value caps in parallel.
In Portuguese:
Caro XELB, obrigado pelo seu conselho!! Caso eu decida usar "stiffener caps" para mid/highs, usarei varios condensadores de menor valor em paralelo
Still concerning the 10K resistors, the kit is supllied with 2 22K resistors (R2/R4), 2 39K resistors (R5/R6) plus another 2 22K resistor, which I did not find them in the Boom. Are these the input resistors which should be replaced by 10K resistors?
Concerning the PSU questions which panomaniac is looking for, also would like to know if I can replace some speaker filters or another PSU caps by Tantalum caps, since I heared some players / amps modded with Tantalum caps and they sounded really amazing!!
Many thanks again!!!
Ok, I think everything is clear now concerning PSU and input caps!! If I decide to use stiffener caps to the mid/highs also, I'll do it using some small value caps in parallel.
In Portuguese:
Caro XELB, obrigado pelo seu conselho!! Caso eu decida usar "stiffener caps" para mid/highs, usarei varios condensadores de menor valor em paralelo
Still concerning the 10K resistors, the kit is supllied with 2 22K resistors (R2/R4), 2 39K resistors (R5/R6) plus another 2 22K resistor, which I did not find them in the Boom. Are these the input resistors which should be replaced by 10K resistors?
Concerning the PSU questions which panomaniac is looking for, also would like to know if I can replace some speaker filters or another PSU caps by Tantalum caps, since I heared some players / amps modded with Tantalum caps and they sounded really amazing!!
Many thanks again!!!
SoundBrazil said:
No. Use the 22K for R2,4,5,6. The is extra and 10K goes right at your input connector. From signal to ground.
Unless you are VERY sure of the tantalum caps, don't do it. They can be very fragile and fail easily. Most of them have a very bad sound. There are some good ones, but you would have to choose wisely.
Stay with the PSU caps that come with the kit, they work well.
Ok!! Understood, tks!
Just one more question before mounting the Amp6 kits: What is the best choice to assemble the two kits? Using only one case for both 2 Amp6 or would be better if I use one case for each Amp6 as our colleague BWRX advised?
Tank you very much!
Just one more question before mounting the Amp6 kits: What is the best choice to assemble the two kits? Using only one case for both 2 Amp6 or would be better if I use one case for each Amp6 as our colleague BWRX advised?
Tank you very much!
SoundBrazil said:
If you don't have to get them in cases right away, I would try them out in a mock enclosure of the same dimensions of the enclosure you plan to place both amps in and see if you hear anything out of the ordinary. If that's too much work then just test them right next to each other on your work bench!
Well, I think using two cases from the beginning is the best way to avoid double work, besides, little aluminium cases are very cheap, about us$ 5 (very simple ones..)
Concerning the subwoofer, it will be used in my project, I'm just trying to get a great and lower bass from the front stage...
Well, it is time to go ahead with kits assembling. I wont solder the components personally, but will arrange all parts / mods and go with the guy which will solder the parts.
So, will let all of you know as soon as can test and listen to these little babies...
Tks for the great help and b rgds!!
SoundBrazil🙂
Concerning the subwoofer, it will be used in my project, I'm just trying to get a great and lower bass from the front stage...
Well, it is time to go ahead with kits assembling. I wont solder the components personally, but will arrange all parts / mods and go with the guy which will solder the parts.
So, will let all of you know as soon as can test and listen to these little babies...
Tks for the great help and b rgds!!
SoundBrazil🙂
Dear panomaniac and other friends,
Just one more question: Would I have any problem if using 4.7uf film input caps to replace the original ones (3.3uf) in the amp which will work until 500Hz only?
Tks guys!!! 😉
Just one more question: Would I have any problem if using 4.7uf film input caps to replace the original ones (3.3uf) in the amp which will work until 500Hz only?
Tks guys!!! 😉
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