Hi all,
I have been sitting on a pair of FE206E's for a couple of months now, and have finally decided to build them a home. Have decided on the Gchang because it is within my skill level to build, and most people who have built one have been happy with it. i was a bit concerned because i have the FE206E and not the FE207E that it was designed for but have decided to take the plunge. I will add the recommended 4 ohms series resistance and hope for the best.
This brings me to my first question: what power rating should this series resistor be? is 10W enough?. Also is it better to use a non-inductive part here?
My second question is regarding the 'holey brace' that is the recommended form of brace. i don't have a router so cutting circles for me is not easy at all. what brace can i use without having to cut circles?. would two vertical strips of wood (say 1" x 1") crossed by two horizontal strips work? something like a tic-tac-toe grid.
This is only my second build, in my first i just soldered the internal wiring to the speaker lugs, i have read in some build threads that this is not advisable since it can melt the voice coil, and also because it makes the speaker tougher to remove (to adjust stuffing etc). what method of connection do the gurus prefer?
Quite excited about the build, have been meaning to try out a full range build for a long time now...will post build photos as they come...
Thanks in advance for any help...
cheers,
mymindinside
I have been sitting on a pair of FE206E's for a couple of months now, and have finally decided to build them a home. Have decided on the Gchang because it is within my skill level to build, and most people who have built one have been happy with it. i was a bit concerned because i have the FE206E and not the FE207E that it was designed for but have decided to take the plunge. I will add the recommended 4 ohms series resistance and hope for the best.
This brings me to my first question: what power rating should this series resistor be? is 10W enough?. Also is it better to use a non-inductive part here?
My second question is regarding the 'holey brace' that is the recommended form of brace. i don't have a router so cutting circles for me is not easy at all. what brace can i use without having to cut circles?. would two vertical strips of wood (say 1" x 1") crossed by two horizontal strips work? something like a tic-tac-toe grid.
This is only my second build, in my first i just soldered the internal wiring to the speaker lugs, i have read in some build threads that this is not advisable since it can melt the voice coil, and also because it makes the speaker tougher to remove (to adjust stuffing etc). what method of connection do the gurus prefer?
Quite excited about the build, have been meaning to try out a full range build for a long time now...will post build photos as they come...
Thanks in advance for any help...
cheers,
mymindinside
Howdy mymindinside,
How come G-change and not Sachiko? Just curious! FE206E and FE207E really have absolutely nothing in common except the physical size, in my mind.
How come G-change and not Sachiko? Just curious! FE206E and FE207E really have absolutely nothing in common except the physical size, in my mind.
I was quite keen on the sachiko,.. from what i have read it is a very good design. what went against it was that in one thread scottmoose (i think) said that they needed a fairly large room to work their best, and did not sound great when placed close to rear and side walls. unfortunately in my room i will have to place them about a foot and a half (max) away from the side and rear walls...
also they are a fair bit bigger than the Gchangs.
I was quite concerned about using the FE206E in this cabinet but then i read Bobtrancho's half chang thread and he seems to be quite happy with this driver.
what do you guys think
mymindinside
also they are a fair bit bigger than the Gchangs.
I was quite concerned about using the FE206E in this cabinet but then i read Bobtrancho's half chang thread and he seems to be quite happy with this driver.
what do you guys think
mymindinside
I built a pair of HC's like Bob T using the FE206e driver. Very pleased w/ the results. You can try the resistor alone, but I used a BSC with a 5.5 ohm R and 1 mH air core inductor. I use Mills non-inductive resistors:
Parts Express: Featured Categories
The holey brace can have holes of any shape, just so long as they make up about 40% of the area. You can cut them with a jig saw or whatever.
Cheers, Jim
Parts Express: Featured Categories
The holey brace can have holes of any shape, just so long as they make up about 40% of the area. You can cut them with a jig saw or whatever.
Cheers, Jim
Hi Jim,
Glad to hear that the cabinet - driver combo worked out well for you.
I take it you used 12W resistors.. That is what i thought the rating ought to be, just wanted to make sure. good to hear about the brace as well. will have some kind of rectangular holes in the brace.... thanks for the help
right now the only amp i have is a lm3886 gainclone. i am thinking of building a F2 (current source design from Nelson Pass)...has anyone tried either of these with the FE206e in the changs?
Glad to hear that the cabinet - driver combo worked out well for you.
I take it you used 12W resistors.. That is what i thought the rating ought to be, just wanted to make sure. good to hear about the brace as well. will have some kind of rectangular holes in the brace.... thanks for the help
right now the only amp i have is a lm3886 gainclone. i am thinking of building a F2 (current source design from Nelson Pass)...has anyone tried either of these with the FE206e in the changs?
G Chang & Curvy Chang have about the same room requirements as Sachiko... Using them with FE206 will alow placement closer to the wall. For a smallish room where you can't get far enuff away from the box for the 2 mouths to integrate, you might be better with Half Chang.
dave
dave
Hi Dave,
its an honor...
My listening distance will be about ten feet from the speakers and they will be roughly the same distance apart.
I was just worried that being too far back into the corner (one and a half feet from rear and side walls) would make the Sachiko's bass a bit boomy and overwhelming. from what i understand of your post, the same 'corner problems' will affect the Changs as well. in that case i might go ahead and build the Sachiko.
my interest in these designs has been to experiment with a sound which has the least correction circuitry (EQ, BSC) in the signal path. As i understand, the Sachiko does not need a BSC because the cabinet is 'self correcting'.
Cheers,
mymindinside
p.s. Dave, i cant access the frugal-horn website today, is it a problem on my end or is the site down?
its an honor...
My listening distance will be about ten feet from the speakers and they will be roughly the same distance apart.
I was just worried that being too far back into the corner (one and a half feet from rear and side walls) would make the Sachiko's bass a bit boomy and overwhelming. from what i understand of your post, the same 'corner problems' will affect the Changs as well. in that case i might go ahead and build the Sachiko.
my interest in these designs has been to experiment with a sound which has the least correction circuitry (EQ, BSC) in the signal path. As i understand, the Sachiko does not need a BSC because the cabinet is 'self correcting'.
Cheers,
mymindinside
p.s. Dave, i cant access the frugal-horn website today, is it a problem on my end or is the site down?
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That is sufficient.
It is a better fit to the driver... if needed you can always make an "anti-BSC" filter to reduce bass.
dave
It is a problem at my end. An ID 10 T Error which i am headed into to town to fix right now.
Well,
the man has spoken
Sachiko it is.
Big thanks to everyone for the help
already bought the plywood though, it is 18mm and not 19mm
will just correct it while glueing up i suppose
cheers,
mymindinside
the man has spoken
Sachiko it is.
Big thanks to everyone for the help
already bought the plywood though, it is 18mm and not 19mm
will just correct it while glueing up i suppose
cheers,
mymindinside
We only get 18mm here too, so at some point i need to draw an 18 mm one. You can either just use the mid-line or if you want to get anal, redraw to keep the passages the same size.
dave
dave
F2 is a perfect partner for the 206. I built one sometime back when I was designing a cab for the FE206E and it proved a good match...I've since given the F2 to Scott but its so good I do borrow it back from time to time....
build details here if you're interested
Vitalstates- Amplifiers
Though Ed seems to have removed reference to his
Vofo from his main page, his design for the FE206E
was well spoken of, here and other places -
Vofo - hand made loudspeaker
Vofo from his main page, his design for the FE206E
was well spoken of, here and other places -
Vofo - hand made loudspeaker
Hi Quadtech,
i had looked at your sachiko build when you started the thread and was very impressed. Do you think i need to use marine ply? is the major advantage that it is void free? Also could you help me a little bit with the build process...this is my first build with this level of complexity so i need all the help i can get.
cheers
mymindinside
i had looked at your sachiko build when you started the thread and was very impressed. Do you think i need to use marine ply? is the major advantage that it is void free? Also could you help me a little bit with the build process...this is my first build with this level of complexity so i need all the help i can get.
cheers
mymindinside
The big benefits of ply is that it us stiffer & better damped. A much better material for this aplication. Also won't be affected by the monsoons nearly as much.
dave
dave
Hi Dave,
Here in India, we get two kinds of ply. regular and marine plywood. Marine plywood is about 2x the price...i was planning on using regular plywood and was wondering if i needed to use the marine variety. Also, what did you use to seal the joints quadtech?
Thanks
mymindinside
Here in India, we get two kinds of ply. regular and marine plywood. Marine plywood is about 2x the price...i was planning on using regular plywood and was wondering if i needed to use the marine variety. Also, what did you use to seal the joints quadtech?
Thanks
mymindinside
nothing we get here has more than 6 plys (for 18m ply)...will just go ahead and use that i supopse....what are the tolerances for the cabinet dimensions?a few mm?or less?
thanks
mymindinside
thanks
mymindinside
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