Hey @Destroyer OS, are there any boards left?
Sorry I may have misread this. There are 30 unclaimed right now.
Got my package today. Thank you @Destroyer OS !!!
Here is a Mouser cart for those wanting to go with the Bourns 8121-RC, 20A option (technically the fuse holder isn't needed, but its in the cart in case).
Here is a Mouser cart for those wanting to go with the Bourns 8121-RC, 20A option (technically the fuse holder isn't needed, but its in the cart in case).
I received mine and would be happy to purchase 4 more if possible. Thank you!
Sure I can do another 4.
What is your iron set at?
@Destroyer OS typically my iron is around 670-680 but for the terminal lugs I just turned the Tenma all the way up… I did have a very fine tip, but that allowed me to get between the lead and the pad. I think it’s just the impressive mass of copper in the board vs small contact area. Not using the same technique for the caps of course. Should I use the payment method as the first order for the four more boards? Thanks again!
I use closer to 800F for something like these. I stick the iron on both and push solder at the join, when it starts flowing I let it and push more in. You can't go super fast but just make sure it sticks to the pad so you don't push and get a big bubble pre-stick.
At 670-680F you're heat creeping a lot. On average component stuff like capacitors etc on regular boards I still use around 760-770F, with the same technique. I prefer to just heat the lead and pad, components are heat tolerant but I watched a few get melty in the past and realized as long as it isn't a cold joint, the least heat creep is best. This is just my opinion. Nicer soldering stations like Metcals work different and will quickly heat a joint then slow down.
At 670-680F you're heat creeping a lot. On average component stuff like capacitors etc on regular boards I still use around 760-770F, with the same technique. I prefer to just heat the lead and pad, components are heat tolerant but I watched a few get melty in the past and realized as long as it isn't a cold joint, the least heat creep is best. This is just my opinion. Nicer soldering stations like Metcals work different and will quickly heat a joint then slow down.
All packages have been shipped. The post office I went to the newer lady I got was trained so she actually knew had to do them and was not double or tripling the prices. However I'm not 100% sure what declaration amount she put on them because she was saying they had to be in dollars (I do sub dollar amounts of connectors and PCB boards since these are not available anywhere else in the world, and it's a GB, you owned it before it was made). I'm really sorry if anyone has to deal with declaring value.
Maybe if my 83 year old grandma was not waiting in the car I could have fleshed out exactly what she marked or get another employee to help her. As it was they left her alone to handle the load and there were 15-25 people behind me groaning as the printer would screw up the label and she would have to begin entering the entire customs form over from scratch with her 10 words per minute typing speed.
Next time I may see if their improvements in customs self printing labels but I am not counting on it.
Maybe if my 83 year old grandma was not waiting in the car I could have fleshed out exactly what she marked or get another employee to help her. As it was they left her alone to handle the load and there were 15-25 people behind me groaning as the printer would screw up the label and she would have to begin entering the entire customs form over from scratch with her 10 words per minute typing speed.
Next time I may see if their improvements in customs self printing labels but I am not counting on it.
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