I rescued a TT from the dump today. It's an old Garrard Zero 100 looks- to be fully automatic.
Has anyone had experience with this or similar? None of the auto stuff works and I don't care. I can get the table to turn just fine though. Do you guys think this would be a nice deck with all the auto goodies stripped and a decent arm attached?
In other words, is the core of this thing worth putting a little🙂D) time into?
Thanks!
Has anyone had experience with this or similar? None of the auto stuff works and I don't care. I can get the table to turn just fine though. Do you guys think this would be a nice deck with all the auto goodies stripped and a decent arm attached?
In other words, is the core of this thing worth putting a little🙂D) time into?
Thanks!
Attachments
definitely...
as pointed out, tnt did a remake of the turntable (well adjustments, etc.
I have the belt driver version. great table. biggest hastle are sloppy headshell pivot bearings.
as pointed out, tnt did a remake of the turntable (well adjustments, etc.
I have the belt driver version. great table. biggest hastle are sloppy headshell pivot bearings.
Thanks Gents-
I found a dead thread on diya- and with the other links you suggested I think energy can be more wisely put in other directions!
I found a dead thread on diya- and with the other links you suggested I think energy can be more wisely put in other directions!
mp...NO... the table is worth you spending some time!
The tnt articles are easy to follow and well written. My belt drive SB Zero 100 has an aluminium plinth and only needs a little chassis dampening. If the plastic/wood plinth is what you have, junk that, but spend some time with the table. It will reward you. At worst, remove the arm and creat a manual version, even using my (infamous) $2.19 tonearm. I guarantee it will not disapoint you. The motors are very well built as are the bearings.
The tnt articles are easy to follow and well written. My belt drive SB Zero 100 has an aluminium plinth and only needs a little chassis dampening. If the plastic/wood plinth is what you have, junk that, but spend some time with the table. It will reward you. At worst, remove the arm and creat a manual version, even using my (infamous) $2.19 tonearm. I guarantee it will not disapoint you. The motors are very well built as are the bearings.
Garrard Zero...
Hi mpmarino
I agree with the guys' consensus here. I don't have one but I have repaired tonearmleads for a Zero One which belongs to a local violin maker. The one I worked on, had a crappy custom plastic "tub" for a plinth. Your one at least, gives you a headstart as the plinth doesn't look too bad.
If it were mine (FWIW), I'll go the difficult route and restore/repair/beautify the lot and you will have a respectable period piece of some worth.
This will be hard work but just think of your achievement and pride of ownership when the job is done. Another thing (can't remember) isn't there a manual override in the mechanism?
bulgin
Hi mpmarino
I agree with the guys' consensus here. I don't have one but I have repaired tonearmleads for a Zero One which belongs to a local violin maker. The one I worked on, had a crappy custom plastic "tub" for a plinth. Your one at least, gives you a headstart as the plinth doesn't look too bad.
If it were mine (FWIW), I'll go the difficult route and restore/repair/beautify the lot and you will have a respectable period piece of some worth.
This will be hard work but just think of your achievement and pride of ownership when the job is done. Another thing (can't remember) isn't there a manual override in the mechanism?
bulgin
OK guys,
The trashed dustcover went into the bin but the tt is with me. I have a lot going on now - this will give me some time to think what to do with it. This is the idler model, by the way. The plinth is real wood.
Thanks a lot.....
The trashed dustcover went into the bin but the tt is with me. I have a lot going on now - this will give me some time to think what to do with it. This is the idler model, by the way. The plinth is real wood.
Thanks a lot.....
Garrard Zero...
Hi again
I've had at least 3 dustcovers made for me over the years for different turntables. My usual sources for these are commercial signmaking firms who are very skilled in acrylic fabricating. If you have the hinges in good condition, the battle is halfway over.
Cheers
bulgin
Hi again
I've had at least 3 dustcovers made for me over the years for different turntables. My usual sources for these are commercial signmaking firms who are very skilled in acrylic fabricating. If you have the hinges in good condition, the battle is halfway over.
Cheers
bulgin
I have started a treat earlier on this machine. After almost 2 years upgrading I can say that it is a wonderful machine but you have to do a lot of work on it. To be honest, get rid on it before its get you. Upgrading this machine became an addiction to me.
To get a descend sound you must:
-tear out the automatic and loose 2 kg junk metal
-change the central bearing into an inverted one (I made a steal bearing/ceramic plate)
-the arm is the biggest problem you need to do a lot of work on this one. And it is not the front bearings but the central one. There is a construction failure in this.
-the idler drive version is the best but creates rumble you have to do a lot of work on the motor platter to create a silent machine.
-and there is some more
Everyone is revering to the TNT site but I am sorry he is totally wrong. It is not the plint or stabilization of mains or etc. It is more fundamental. The construction failure in the arm main bearing is the biggest problem, the central bearing the next.
Sorry don’t have the time to explain it all.
Go on Ebay with it and buy a Sony or……
To get a descend sound you must:
-tear out the automatic and loose 2 kg junk metal
-change the central bearing into an inverted one (I made a steal bearing/ceramic plate)
-the arm is the biggest problem you need to do a lot of work on this one. And it is not the front bearings but the central one. There is a construction failure in this.
-the idler drive version is the best but creates rumble you have to do a lot of work on the motor platter to create a silent machine.
-and there is some more
Everyone is revering to the TNT site but I am sorry he is totally wrong. It is not the plint or stabilization of mains or etc. It is more fundamental. The construction failure in the arm main bearing is the biggest problem, the central bearing the next.
Sorry don’t have the time to explain it all.
Go on Ebay with it and buy a Sony or……
No Sony I've run across...
comes anywhere near what the old Garrard can do.
This could be a perfect donation table to a re-plinth such as the one I did on an old Sugden Connoisseur...CAD $35 if I remember correctly.
Nanooks dumb ask replinth
A "Winners" (that's TJ Maxx or similar in the US), Asian Hardwood cutting board for CAD $10. practice arrow for the shaft, 2 for CAD$3, some junk wire and a piece of scap aluminium, an old pen refill, a 1/4" pipe plug, and some junk parts off a beater turntable (junk Realistic or similar), and four marbles for feet.
this is my cheap $2.19 DIY tonearm. If the bearing is buggered, then a bearing would have to be sourced.., but that can be done on the cheap too. Have a listen to the turntable while it is spinning with a stethescope, thatt'll tell you if the bearing is shot for sure.
I still believe it is worth working on. The motor in and of itself and the platter are quite good.
Triumph, do you have a link to your earlier thread?
comes anywhere near what the old Garrard can do.
This could be a perfect donation table to a re-plinth such as the one I did on an old Sugden Connoisseur...CAD $35 if I remember correctly.
Nanooks dumb ask replinth
A "Winners" (that's TJ Maxx or similar in the US), Asian Hardwood cutting board for CAD $10. practice arrow for the shaft, 2 for CAD$3, some junk wire and a piece of scap aluminium, an old pen refill, a 1/4" pipe plug, and some junk parts off a beater turntable (junk Realistic or similar), and four marbles for feet.
this is my cheap $2.19 DIY tonearm. If the bearing is buggered, then a bearing would have to be sourced.., but that can be done on the cheap too. Have a listen to the turntable while it is spinning with a stethescope, thatt'll tell you if the bearing is shot for sure.
I still believe it is worth working on. The motor in and of itself and the platter are quite good.
Triumph, do you have a link to your earlier thread?
I take it the affair is over?
I'm not looking for a restoration project. I thought I may have found a diamond here - but it isn't so. I have a Rega which is fine for now. I'd like to DIY a tt someday. Do you guys think the motor from the Garrard is a good donor?
I'm not looking for a restoration project. I thought I may have found a diamond here - but it isn't so. I have a Rega which is fine for now. I'd like to DIY a tt someday. Do you guys think the motor from the Garrard is a good donor?
Inverte bearing
Triumph,
Your iverted bearing looks very interesting and simple. Is it just a steel ball on top of the centre rod and a ceramic plante in the original small round plate that is attached to the centre of the subplatter? Which parts of the original bearing did you junk?
I am currently modding a Zero 100S, and my plan is to first replace the arm and construct a heavy plywood plinth. I quess replacing the spindle bearing would be the next step to improve this TT.
-MrSticha
Triumph,
Your iverted bearing looks very interesting and simple. Is it just a steel ball on top of the centre rod and a ceramic plante in the original small round plate that is attached to the centre of the subplatter? Which parts of the original bearing did you junk?
I am currently modding a Zero 100S, and my plan is to first replace the arm and construct a heavy plywood plinth. I quess replacing the spindle bearing would be the next step to improve this TT.
-MrSticha
Mr. Sticha,
You are at a point to getting in big problems. Do not read this and sell that *** machine.
The Zero100S to me is an addiction. The problem is that it is a total disaster. It rumbles because of the roll bearing spindle, it has no bass and no definition of sound because of an construction failure in the armbearing, etc. etc. etc. But it looks so great and I knew it had potential. After 1,5 years I managed to get a wonderful sound of it. But it took some time and it was easier to buy a modern TT. Now I can honestly say it is in the same league as good average TT’s (up to $1000-2500 class). And still I have some more improvements in mind.
Search in this following thread (Help I am falling in love with a idler TT) from post #46 you see some pictures of the biggest improvements I have made.
1 You are planning to make a new plint and replacing the arm. I think that’s a shame, a better plint won’t give you a better sound for that it needs some more drastic improvements.
2 A new arm? The am is the whole charm of the machine it is a shame to replace that. The arm is unique.
I improved the machine almost without touching it looks.
To make a inverted bearing is quite simple, I have done this without any CNC-mill. Just saw about 4mm (there is already a sleeve there) of the central bearing, drill a 7,5mm (3 mm deep) hole in it and place a 7,5mm steel ball (no glue or welding needed) in it. The only difficulty is getting a piece of (technical) ceramic from the right size (I was lucky to get it, look at a jewelry shop). Actually I am now using a thinner piece of ceramic with a glass-Teflon coating, silent as a baby. Stick the ceramic bearing with some double side foam tape on the top plate and that’s it.
Good luck
You are at a point to getting in big problems. Do not read this and sell that *** machine.
The Zero100S to me is an addiction. The problem is that it is a total disaster. It rumbles because of the roll bearing spindle, it has no bass and no definition of sound because of an construction failure in the armbearing, etc. etc. etc. But it looks so great and I knew it had potential. After 1,5 years I managed to get a wonderful sound of it. But it took some time and it was easier to buy a modern TT. Now I can honestly say it is in the same league as good average TT’s (up to $1000-2500 class). And still I have some more improvements in mind.
Search in this following thread (Help I am falling in love with a idler TT) from post #46 you see some pictures of the biggest improvements I have made.
1 You are planning to make a new plint and replacing the arm. I think that’s a shame, a better plint won’t give you a better sound for that it needs some more drastic improvements.
2 A new arm? The am is the whole charm of the machine it is a shame to replace that. The arm is unique.
I improved the machine almost without touching it looks.
To make a inverted bearing is quite simple, I have done this without any CNC-mill. Just saw about 4mm (there is already a sleeve there) of the central bearing, drill a 7,5mm (3 mm deep) hole in it and place a 7,5mm steel ball (no glue or welding needed) in it. The only difficulty is getting a piece of (technical) ceramic from the right size (I was lucky to get it, look at a jewelry shop). Actually I am now using a thinner piece of ceramic with a glass-Teflon coating, silent as a baby. Stick the ceramic bearing with some double side foam tape on the top plate and that’s it.
Good luck
Attachments
Thank you for the warning Triumph, but I still think that this is just my kind of trouple🙂
I'm not sure about replacing the plinth. I think I should first clean the original alumium plinth and maybe dampen it a little. Replacing the arm is a must though since the original arm is totally busted.
I have already read throught this and the other thread that deals with modding Zero TTs and I have to admit that you have done very good work with your Zero.
Your bearing design is simple and brilliant. I'm definitely going to try it. By the way is your ceramic plate alumina (Al2O3) or something else? I might try a ceramic ball with a teflon plate if I can't get my hands on a suitable ceramic plate.
-MrSticha
I'm not sure about replacing the plinth. I think I should first clean the original alumium plinth and maybe dampen it a little. Replacing the arm is a must though since the original arm is totally busted.
I have already read throught this and the other thread that deals with modding Zero TTs and I have to admit that you have done very good work with your Zero.
Your bearing design is simple and brilliant. I'm definitely going to try it. By the way is your ceramic plate alumina (Al2O3) or something else? I might try a ceramic ball with a teflon plate if I can't get my hands on a suitable ceramic plate.
-MrSticha
Speak of the devil!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Garrard-Zero-10...ViewItem?hash=item200266393863&_trkparms=39:1|66%3A2|65%3A10|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
http://cgi.ebay.com/Garrard-Zero-10...ViewItem?hash=item200266393863&_trkparms=39:1|66%3A2|65%3A10|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
despotic93 (and others)1...look closely...
the eBay link is a Z100, not a Z100SB...
it's been quite a while since I've pondered this unfortunate table located in my basement.
I have the plastic top plate version in an aluminium "plinth". I had taken the arm apart and left it in pieces.
The Z100SB is a single play, belt driven table. That is the version tnt did their mods to.
Looking at it again (see picture), the real culprit here is the plastic top plate, everything else can easily be improved. Even the top plate can be improved, just that it may require the construction of a new one.
Starting with the "SB" version, there is no idler drive, but there is also no changer mechanism and thus it is a lot easier row to hoe than stripping the mechanicals away.
Concerning the arm: to me the geometry seems all wrong. Anyone familiar with General Motors "A" body cars of the late 1960's to early 1980's? The problem with those cars is their rear suspension, unequal links controlling the location of the rear axle. By changing the geometry things really improve. I think the same can be said of the arm on this table.
The arm and the link that keeps the headshell pivoting as it moves across the record have different lengths and are not parallel to each other. If the location of the pivot (for the "trailing arm") can be moved, and the link length changed, then this arm should track as though it were a true linear tracker. At issue also is the quality of the bearings used for the pivoting portion of the arm. If the slop in the fit between the pins and the bearings can be tightened without increasing the friction in the bearing, then the second issue in the arm can be taken care of.
stew
the eBay link is a Z100, not a Z100SB...
it's been quite a while since I've pondered this unfortunate table located in my basement.
I have the plastic top plate version in an aluminium "plinth". I had taken the arm apart and left it in pieces.
The Z100SB is a single play, belt driven table. That is the version tnt did their mods to.
Looking at it again (see picture), the real culprit here is the plastic top plate, everything else can easily be improved. Even the top plate can be improved, just that it may require the construction of a new one.
Starting with the "SB" version, there is no idler drive, but there is also no changer mechanism and thus it is a lot easier row to hoe than stripping the mechanicals away.
Concerning the arm: to me the geometry seems all wrong. Anyone familiar with General Motors "A" body cars of the late 1960's to early 1980's? The problem with those cars is their rear suspension, unequal links controlling the location of the rear axle. By changing the geometry things really improve. I think the same can be said of the arm on this table.
The arm and the link that keeps the headshell pivoting as it moves across the record have different lengths and are not parallel to each other. If the location of the pivot (for the "trailing arm") can be moved, and the link length changed, then this arm should track as though it were a true linear tracker. At issue also is the quality of the bearings used for the pivoting portion of the arm. If the slop in the fit between the pins and the bearings can be tightened without increasing the friction in the bearing, then the second issue in the arm can be taken care of.
stew
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