Bobken said:
Dear Sir,
thank you so much for your very kind and extremely helpful reply.
I can feel your great passion for audio and the long path that you have run to reach a enjoyable set-up.
I am afraid I am not so determinated to bear the efforts involved.
Besides my requirements are much more basic: just a nice sound.
Moreover my knowledge is very limited.
Your very valuable reply is very helpful to me to understand that this is a very hard pathto go through.
That can be very frustrating but also extremely exciting.
Thank you very much indeed.
Kind regards,
bg
Eva -
lineup don't get exhausted
That's a lost battle.
There are much better things to discuss,
like speaker design or room acoustics
------------------------------------------------------
hello Eva place your speakers in the right position and adjust
the sound level so that (with my class-a amps) theres nothing
better to do than listen the experience of a well designed class-a
product
kind regards
lineup don't get exhausted
That's a lost battle.
There are much better things to discuss,
like speaker design or room acoustics
------------------------------------------------------
hello Eva place your speakers in the right position and adjust
the sound level so that (with my class-a amps) theres nothing
better to do than listen the experience of a well designed class-a
product
kind regards
Anyone have anything positive or negative to say about a fuse like in the link? Other than any "inconvenience" of having to desolder/solder to change them, they wouldn't require the extra expense and cleaning of a typically crappy fuse holder.
Copper leaded fuses
Copper leaded fuses
You`re on the track to something but..
On my way to make the ultimate speakers I had to resolve this problem too. Long story, but it all came basically down to one thing: heavy metal! Since the beginning of time I`ve read about huge capasitatorbanks and lots of watts, but none of these makes an amp appear real mighty. To make an amp appear strong the main point is heavy gauge powerways with focus on the secondary side, but no fuzz on the primary too of course.
My beloved old Electrocompaniet AW250DMB sounded really good, but had no real punch. Weak as an old man.
First thing I did was resmoving the slow-start circuit, that helped a bit. After burning up(!) the tiny powerways I started replacing them with 12awg solid copper. Oh what a change! Kind of a snappy puncy bass allready.
That leaded me into ordering a pair of new "well dimesioned" trafos w. 12awg primarys & 2x9awg secondarys. I completed this by uppgrading the powerways into 9awg. Twin powercables made from 12awg sc. No fuses or switches😎
Result? The amp is huge! Extreme. Later I`ve done simular uppgrades to several amps, not allways new trafos but just by replacing multistrand wires w. thick solid and bypassing slowstarts & so. Btw; this is a good upgrade for other equipment too😉
This sounds like improving the current ability of the power amp.
I find this does help with bass response.
I find this does help with bass response.
AndrewT said:
Yep, it does. And that`s what makes the difference with SS-amps😎
it does not only improve bassresponse but all over dynamics, thereby speaker-control, distortion, stability, musicality, breathing aso.
pooge said:
I'm using those fuses in my DAC and had slight preference for them when comparing with other popular types.
They seem to be VERY fast acting. Maybe good for steady currents, but maybe not as good as some of the other options for use power amp DC supply fuses.
Thank goodness I'm not as fussy as some people. I *like* a nice fuse in the output line of a big amp. When a bjt fails, it inevitably fails shorted. The right size fuse can save an expensive driver from the resulting DC. Obviously you should use a clean holder with high pressure contact, but any (to me) minuscule sonic degradation seems more than offset by the safety factor. In fact, listening to a poorly protected system would make me nervous enough so as not to enjoy the music. 
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