What is your application?
Also, is it just the tweeter or also bass / mids?
Domestic use is different to PA.
My experience is that with (even big) domestic application, the only two things you need to worry about are:
1. DC faults in the power amp.
2. The user being stupid, drunk or both. (I.e. me)
3. A bonus risk of subsonic crud.... You will hear the effect of this too.
In this situation I always include DC protect in my amps. And if the music sounds crap (clipping) turn it down. If you follow these two rules it is unlikely you will ever see a driver fail.
If on the other hand you are talking about sound reinforcement and considering EDM or similar, you need one of the professional limiter devices.
Also, is it just the tweeter or also bass / mids?
Domestic use is different to PA.
My experience is that with (even big) domestic application, the only two things you need to worry about are:
1. DC faults in the power amp.
2. The user being stupid, drunk or both. (I.e. me)
3. A bonus risk of subsonic crud.... You will hear the effect of this too.
In this situation I always include DC protect in my amps. And if the music sounds crap (clipping) turn it down. If you follow these two rules it is unlikely you will ever see a driver fail.
If on the other hand you are talking about sound reinforcement and considering EDM or similar, you need one of the professional limiter devices.
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legopart, you will need to identify the amplifier that is connected to the speaker, and the speaker, and how hi-fi you want to maintain your system (as different protection mechanisms can change the signal, however subtly).
Do you know if your amplifier includes some functions that may protect your speaker?
Do you know if your amplifier includes some functions that may protect your speaker?
The tweeter voice coil is going to burn out at currents well below the fuse value, because the fuse has to handle woofer current levels. Fuses add measurable distortion (thermal).
Also DC offsets have much greater effect on speakers than AC signals of the same amplitude, fuses see DC and rms AC alike.
Speaker protection circuit is the way to go for optimal protection without compromising sound quality. For PA use a series tungsten bulb is often used as it current-limits without failing, and there's nothing more embarassing than a PA that suddenly loses one channel.
Having said that a fuse is way better than nothing, fast blow of course.
Also DC offsets have much greater effect on speakers than AC signals of the same amplitude, fuses see DC and rms AC alike.
Speaker protection circuit is the way to go for optimal protection without compromising sound quality. For PA use a series tungsten bulb is often used as it current-limits without failing, and there's nothing more embarassing than a PA that suddenly loses one channel.
Having said that a fuse is way better than nothing, fast blow of course.
There are certain vintage active speakers with a penchant for blowing up power amps where the recommendation is to install picofuses in series with the tweeters. There have, historically, also been speakers with lightbulb fusing for the tweeter.
This is strictly something for inside the box, but it didn't seem like the OP was explicitly excluding that.
This is strictly something for inside the box, but it didn't seem like the OP was explicitly excluding that.
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