Hi! I have recently bougt two Anaview ams0100 module for use in BTL. The output power is 120w into 6 ohm load, and probably around 100w into 8 ohm. The internal fuse is rated 1.6A and seems to be a real hassel to have it replaced. I was wondering what external Amp rating the fuse should be? I bought two 1 amp rated fuse, is this to low? I have seen online that people use 1,5A fuse, but could not find and good audio graded fuse at that rating. 1A 230-240V should be at 230-240w, and that seem to be very unlikely to be feed to a high efficent Class d amp. I doesnt use alot of power, i have quite sensitive ears so i probaly will not use more then 10w.
Is a higher amp rating a must or will 1A fuse be enough?
Best regards Jacop
Is a higher amp rating a must or will 1A fuse be enough?
Best regards Jacop
Interesting choice since they haven't been produced for several years.
New or pre-loved?
In the UK, mains plugs have standardised on 13A & 3A fuses.
So I would choose a 3A fuse. Or 13A if feeding 2 modules from 1 supply cable.
The internal fuse is a slow blow (T) fuse.
I wouldn't sweat it.
The internal fuse should only blow under fault conditions so you would be replacing more than the fuse.
'Audio grade' fuse has no meaning.
A mains fuse either meets safety standards and doesn't set your house on fire, or it doesn't (faked safety markings, cheap import).
New or pre-loved?
In the UK, mains plugs have standardised on 13A & 3A fuses.
So I would choose a 3A fuse. Or 13A if feeding 2 modules from 1 supply cable.
The internal fuse is a slow blow (T) fuse.
I wouldn't sweat it.
The internal fuse should only blow under fault conditions so you would be replacing more than the fuse.
'Audio grade' fuse has no meaning.
A mains fuse either meets safety standards and doesn't set your house on fire, or it doesn't (faked safety markings, cheap import).
Thanks for the reply! The modules are new and untouched 🙂 Bought them from a seller online through the site tradera, won the bid at 100 euro for both!
I mostly buy cheap audio grade fuse, 2-10 euro range as they seem more reliabel then the cheap ones at my locals shop. Have heard they dont blown when people have tested them with their blow rating 😬. I have a couple of 3A and 4A fuse laying around 🙂 so i probaly use them.
As im new into how overcharges work, i dont really know how it uselly works. Does the fault often accure with a load over 3A and not so often close over the unit usely max load, if so i understand that the 1.6A internal fuse is nothing to worry about being paired with a larger Fuse rating before.
I mostly buy cheap audio grade fuse, 2-10 euro range as they seem more reliabel then the cheap ones at my locals shop. Have heard they dont blown when people have tested them with their blow rating 😬. I have a couple of 3A and 4A fuse laying around 🙂 so i probaly use them.
As im new into how overcharges work, i dont really know how it uselly works. Does the fault often accure with a load over 3A and not so often close over the unit usely max load, if so i understand that the 1.6A internal fuse is nothing to worry about being paired with a larger Fuse rating before.
The mains fuse is primarily to protect the wiring from catching fire in the event of a fault.
Because they are made to pass the rated current without fatigue and failure, the actual current to blow the fuse can be up to 100% overload - 6A to blow a 3A fuse.
The internal fuse is to protect the circuits from more damage than necessary in a fault condition and is much more closely matched to the current used by the device.
So if something fails in the amp it will blow the internal fuse first.
If the cable gets chafed and shorts then the mains fuse will stop your house burning down.
And I cannot remember the last time I replaced a blown fuse.
Because they are made to pass the rated current without fatigue and failure, the actual current to blow the fuse can be up to 100% overload - 6A to blow a 3A fuse.
The internal fuse is to protect the circuits from more damage than necessary in a fault condition and is much more closely matched to the current used by the device.
So if something fails in the amp it will blow the internal fuse first.
If the cable gets chafed and shorts then the mains fuse will stop your house burning down.
And I cannot remember the last time I replaced a blown fuse.
"Audio grade fuse" In the power lead? OK, I buy for speakers leads as some 3AG fuses may have steel caps and the holder is often steel, but for a power line, there is no way following the laws of physics that an '"audio" fuse has any effect on the signal. ( If you want to get rid of steel, ATO fuses are actually more reliable)
Do note, as this is an international forum, depending on your country a fuse rating may be a peak amperage at which it will blow, or the average safe operating current. That does not even include "slow blow" fuses. Fuse selection has to deal with in-rush as well as peak SOA.
An old engineering method is to go small and keep replacing it until it does not blow, then go slightly bigger.
Do note, as this is an international forum, depending on your country a fuse rating may be a peak amperage at which it will blow, or the average safe operating current. That does not even include "slow blow" fuses. Fuse selection has to deal with in-rush as well as peak SOA.
An old engineering method is to go small and keep replacing it until it does not blow, then go slightly bigger.
Thanks for taking the time to reply! I think i undersrand now🙂.
My outlets is 230V, and the fuse chamber i use is for 5x20mm. The fuse i own did i get through a IEC power inlet socket kit for amplifiers that i bought from a audio store, which included 4A slow blow fuse. The fuse is made of cermatic and is rated for 250V, i bought a couple of extras in 3A.
Now they are not fast blow, if the slow blow are no good for use at the power line when compared to fast, i make sure to change them out.
The amps have their own enclosure and power cable, so 3A fuse seem to be the recommended rating for a device rated 100w connected to a 230v souce when i looked at guids online. So i will hook up the 3A fuse in the fuse chamber now in the up comming week when i assemble everything😄, if the fact its a slow blow dont make it not suit my application.
My outlets is 230V, and the fuse chamber i use is for 5x20mm. The fuse i own did i get through a IEC power inlet socket kit for amplifiers that i bought from a audio store, which included 4A slow blow fuse. The fuse is made of cermatic and is rated for 250V, i bought a couple of extras in 3A.
Now they are not fast blow, if the slow blow are no good for use at the power line when compared to fast, i make sure to change them out.
The amps have their own enclosure and power cable, so 3A fuse seem to be the recommended rating for a device rated 100w connected to a 230v souce when i looked at guids online. So i will hook up the 3A fuse in the fuse chamber now in the up comming week when i assemble everything😄, if the fact its a slow blow dont make it not suit my application.