'llo all,
I'm thinking about building a pair of fullrange speakers to sit on either side of the LCD on my desk. I don't mind if they take up a decent amount of desk space, but obviously there is some limit to the maximum useable size. If possible I would like them to be useable for music without a subwoofer. (Though I will have the one from my old Klipsch system available if it seems nescessary... basically I'd just like the option of not having it in the system) Also, it would be great if the total price was >$150/pair.
They will driven by a class-D amp.... probably either a SI or a 41 Hz Amp 6 so efficiency is a definite plus. The speakers will primarily be used for music (mostly classical and electronica/downtempo). Very rarely (and obviously with the subwoofer) they will be used as a 2-channel hometheater rig.
Thus far I've found three designs that seem like they would fit my needs:
1) GM's FE127 Vented Transmission Line (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64369&perpage=10&pagenumber=1)
2) Tony Gee's Solo 103 (http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/Solo103.html)
3) The Full Range Reference Project Monopole V.1 (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=526880&stamp=1102221644)
4) The Zaph|Audio Hi-Vi B3S (http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html)
Any other designs I should consider? Which of the designs I'm looking at would you recommend?
Thanks.
I'm thinking about building a pair of fullrange speakers to sit on either side of the LCD on my desk. I don't mind if they take up a decent amount of desk space, but obviously there is some limit to the maximum useable size. If possible I would like them to be useable for music without a subwoofer. (Though I will have the one from my old Klipsch system available if it seems nescessary... basically I'd just like the option of not having it in the system) Also, it would be great if the total price was >$150/pair.
They will driven by a class-D amp.... probably either a SI or a 41 Hz Amp 6 so efficiency is a definite plus. The speakers will primarily be used for music (mostly classical and electronica/downtempo). Very rarely (and obviously with the subwoofer) they will be used as a 2-channel hometheater rig.
Thus far I've found three designs that seem like they would fit my needs:
1) GM's FE127 Vented Transmission Line (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64369&perpage=10&pagenumber=1)
2) Tony Gee's Solo 103 (http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/Solo103.html)
3) The Full Range Reference Project Monopole V.1 (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=526880&stamp=1102221644)
4) The Zaph|Audio Hi-Vi B3S (http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html)
Any other designs I should consider? Which of the designs I'm looking at would you recommend?
Thanks.
I you use a BSC, be sure to use foil inductors and Mcap Supreme Oil Silver ot the Silver/Gold. You will be in heaven. Resistors would be of higer wattage than the driver can take.
i built the zaph 3 inch little speakers and love em....
and don't listen to people when they tell you to exotic crossover parts...🙄
and don't listen to people when they tell you to exotic crossover parts...🙄
nerd of nerds said:
Have you tried some before? Or is there some technical theory behind this statement?😕
Better crossover parts can make a difference, especially if its avoiding bipolar caps and iron core inductors. But exotic stuff with a $150/pair budget?
The inductor would have a more significant impact in a BSC, and cheaper than Mcaps. If the BSC has a cap, the budget way would be to use bypass caps of 0.01uF ERO 63V MKP types with whatever other file type caps you use.
nerd of nerds said:
Are you using them with a subwoofer? If so, at what point did you have to cross them over for good bass response?
Thanks for the responses guys... As for BSC components, it will really depend on how much space I have left in my budget after I build the actual speakers.... That's one of the reasons I was hoping to run one of the FE172 designs because I've heard that a lot of people are happy directly connecting them to the amp.
I've built some speakers with the Hi-Vi B3S and the FE127s. I definately prefer the fe127s. Unfortunately space was an issue with the fer127s, but I bet the reference monopoles are quite nice. Dave and GM are both amazing designers, I'm sure either one will surpass any expectations. What about the Aura NS3?
Josh
Josh
edjosh23 said:
Thanx. The reference monopoles do sound good. I'd just like to point out the FE127s designs in the reference thread are mostly Tim Forman's with my drawings & embellishments,
My favorite (obtainable) 3" so far.
dave
blip1882,
How about bipoles?
What about the new TB W4 bamboos?
What about the design you made, the Minuet clone?
or the bipole w3 871s mention in that thread?
Josh
How about bipoles?
What about the new TB W4 bamboos?
What about the design you made, the Minuet clone?
or the bipole w3 871s mention in that thread?
Josh
Thanks for the replies!
I had thought about doing bipoles but was worried about the extra complexity/expense... The FE127 bipoles cost a bit more than I had wanted to spend... though if anyone is willing to make a strong case for them as being significantly superior to the others I've listed, I'd definitely consider it.
You mean the W4-1320SB? Good idea! I'm keeping a close eye on that thread for real world results.... They certainly look possible on paper.
The Minuet clone is appealing... Honestly I'm a bit suspect of my own capacity as a first time designer 🙂 . Besides that, from the charts I've seen on those drivers, I'm a bit worried about their trebel response.... That said, you're right I should look into these a bit more... If they're good enough for Omega, they're probably good enough for a desktop system!
While I'm asking anyone know how to model multiple drivers in Martin J. King's worksheets?
That's good to hear, right now I'm leaning towards them... But Josh gave me quite a few new options to consider so who knows?
Thanks again.
edjosh23 said:
I had thought about doing bipoles but was worried about the extra complexity/expense... The FE127 bipoles cost a bit more than I had wanted to spend... though if anyone is willing to make a strong case for them as being significantly superior to the others I've listed, I'd definitely consider it.
You mean the W4-1320SB? Good idea! I'm keeping a close eye on that thread for real world results.... They certainly look possible on paper.
The Minuet clone is appealing... Honestly I'm a bit suspect of my own capacity as a first time designer 🙂 . Besides that, from the charts I've seen on those drivers, I'm a bit worried about their trebel response.... That said, you're right I should look into these a bit more... If they're good enough for Omega, they're probably good enough for a desktop system!
While I'm asking anyone know how to model multiple drivers in Martin J. King's worksheets?
Again, I was a bit turned off by the complexity of building a bipole... my router skills aren't really that great! That said, they would be relatively inexpensive to build and are very tempting.... hmmm.
planet10 said:
That's good to hear, right now I'm leaning towards them... But Josh gave me quite a few new options to consider so who knows?
Thanks again.
blip1882,
Although I am far from an experienced designer I would not consider bipoles too difficult. Do you have a jasper jig or any other jig to make flush mount and cut out holes? To me that is all you really need. If you remember the issue with the minuet was that the there was bad off axis responce, when you are near field I doubt you will have to deal with too much off axis responce and if you make them bipole and add the tweeter on top like suggested I'm guessing off axis responce would be even better.
I don't know much about the 41hz amp, but what impedeance is too low? I'm guessing it is dependent on your power supply, have you built the amp? Will it even be 4 ohm stable? If using the SI you are probably going to want 4 ohms.
Dave has expressed to me his affinity for bipoles before and can give you much better comparisons than I can.
I have been wanting to make a bipole speaker for a long time now and as soon as my birthday come around I'm going to build some like expressed in my thread. The active BSC is just one pro that turns me on to such designs.
Josh
Although I am far from an experienced designer I would not consider bipoles too difficult. Do you have a jasper jig or any other jig to make flush mount and cut out holes? To me that is all you really need. If you remember the issue with the minuet was that the there was bad off axis responce, when you are near field I doubt you will have to deal with too much off axis responce and if you make them bipole and add the tweeter on top like suggested I'm guessing off axis responce would be even better.
I don't know much about the 41hz amp, but what impedeance is too low? I'm guessing it is dependent on your power supply, have you built the amp? Will it even be 4 ohm stable? If using the SI you are probably going to want 4 ohms.
Dave has expressed to me his affinity for bipoles before and can give you much better comparisons than I can.
I have been wanting to make a bipole speaker for a long time now and as soon as my birthday come around I'm going to build some like expressed in my thread. The active BSC is just one pro that turns me on to such designs.
Josh
edjosh23 said:
This could be mis-construed a bit... as long as the cabinet has front-to-back symmetry, a bipole has no baffle-step, so there is no need for compensation.
dave
Dave,
I'm not sure if I misunderstand you or visa versa.
What I was saying was that a woofer on the back side is active BSC so that a passive BSC components are not needed. Not quite sure what you meant.
Dave do you have any suggestions?
Josh
I'm not sure if I misunderstand you or visa versa.
What I was saying was that a woofer on the back side is active BSC so that a passive BSC components are not needed. Not quite sure what you meant.
Dave do you have any suggestions?
Josh
edjosh23 said:
When a discussion is about BSC then it could be put in terms of active BSC, but in reality a bipole has no baffle step so there is nothing to compensate for...
dave
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