>>> Definetely small full range with bass support.
Definetly large full range with tweeter.
LOL, I think both approaches can work beautifully. The hardest part is choosing which to focus your efforts... maybe pick one first and the other next. Doing both may uncover strategies and best practices to handle each.
Personally, i think the BEST approach is a full range driver (pick your favorite regardless of size), add a woofer for bass support and a tweeter for treble support.
But that's just me.
Zilla
Definetly large full range with tweeter.
LOL, I think both approaches can work beautifully. The hardest part is choosing which to focus your efforts... maybe pick one first and the other next. Doing both may uncover strategies and best practices to handle each.
Personally, i think the BEST approach is a full range driver (pick your favorite regardless of size), add a woofer for bass support and a tweeter for treble support.
But that's just me.
Zilla
There 's a 4 alphanumeric word to decribe it : 3-wayPersonally, i think the BEST approach is a full range driver (pick your favorite regardless of size), add a woofer for bass support and a tweeter for treble support.
😎
U can use exodus anarchy 2 per side to get approx 86-87db sens, with reasonably small ported box 1ft3 with port tuned to 40hz.
If u can go active that would be even better, with some EQ on bottom end, u prob get 30hz in room performance.
Cheers
Henry
If u can go active that would be even better, with some EQ on bottom end, u prob get 30hz in room performance.
Cheers
Henry
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Joined 2009
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Even SS would be ok ...
go and wash your mouth out with soap and water ! 😀
I want to use tubes, and as I've never dabbled with PP tubes this is another opportunity to learn. I have some 6C4C's to use up (or I could buy some KT88's) - and Class AB would allow headroom for some bass transients whilst still giving me Class A most of the time.
One gets rid of a very significant downside of XOs if one can space the drivers such that they are within a 1/4 wavelength (or less) of each other.
That's an excellent point, whilst it would be possible to put the tweeter in front of the woofer it would no longer be an OB.
It is also an ideal place (if one takes care with driver selection) to do a series XO. The very nature of the series XO also means that the responses of the 2 drivers can automatically compensate for anomalies inherent in the drivers.
Do tell more - can you point me to further information, it sounds like something I should investigate.
they have the tri-foil 'Dave' treatment but this didn't fix the issue; no eNable yet though. Notch filter killed the sound. The Fountek's are great.are they treated to any degree?
If possible, I'd like to get into 90dB territory, which kind of suggests the full range can't be too small.U can use exodus anarchy 2 per side to get approx 86-87db sens.
yes, definitely a good fullrange with tweeter and woofer!
http://edsaudiopages.blogspot.com/2010/08/way-i-like-speakers-these-days.html
http://edsaudiopages.blogspot.com/2010/08/way-i-like-speakers-these-days.html
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I've honestly never seen what all the fuss is about with putting crossovers in any "critical range" (different numbers are always thrown about every time), as a 4th order crossover sounds just as bad to me at 100Hz as it does at 1KHz. I've found that the only way to avoid the ringing and negative effects of crossovers while still using them is to carefully use simple 1st order filters, which is difficult to do correctly. Ideally, this usually limits designs to something like a 3" driver with a small woofer in a 2-way ..or said 2-way that rolls off at 100Hz and a carefully chosen "sub" with a 1st order low-pass at that freq (digitally, with a separate amplifier).
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I do found out that a true 3way have the best sound. After using jx92 and alpairs. They do miss the highs and don't have enough bottom end to provide real live music.
On the other hand, if u want something sweet sounding, easy to build, and listening at low level, fullrangers like alpair10 and jx92s is definitely is better than most 2ways.
Cheers
Henry
On the other hand, if u want something sweet sounding, easy to build, and listening at low level, fullrangers like alpair10 and jx92s is definitely is better than most 2ways.
Cheers
Henry
The exodus anarchy actually meant as bass helper, with active xo and biamp, the sens become non issue.
Since its alum, u can match them with alpairs or jx92s, or with Jim's mini monitor.
Of course going with bigger woofer always rewarding.
Cheers
Henry
Since its alum, u can match them with alpairs or jx92s, or with Jim's mini monitor.
Of course going with bigger woofer always rewarding.
Cheers
Henry
Space constraint = find good xmax of 7-8inchers, which exodus fits this, and with very small box volume.
Big space = use 15" pro woofer, something like lambda td15 or dipole15, eminence kappa lite 15"
Invest on EQ, like mr. Pass B5 or dsp based EQ, starting from minidsp, dcx, hypex, DBx, labgruppen etc.
Ribbon usually good match with alum cones, although I don't have extensive experience.
Cheers
Henry
Big space = use 15" pro woofer, something like lambda td15 or dipole15, eminence kappa lite 15"
Invest on EQ, like mr. Pass B5 or dsp based EQ, starting from minidsp, dcx, hypex, DBx, labgruppen etc.
Ribbon usually good match with alum cones, although I don't have extensive experience.
Cheers
Henry
Adason, I enjoyed your comment as well as your article about the speaker you built. I have those Jamo woofers too on OB and they sound fantastic. Wish I bought more when they were cheaply available at PE.
lol, so whatcha gunna do?
Norman
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hawk audio duke
4x 3” full range + 6” woofer + tweeter
Adason, I enjoyed your comment as well as your article about the speaker you built. I have those Jamo woofers too on OB and they sound fantastic. Wish I bought more when they were cheaply available at PE.
thanks godzilla! (i got 6 those jamo woofers, but I have them in closed boxes)
Full range + woofer
I strongly recommend a full range with woofer vs. full range plus tweeter. I am currently using a Tang Band w3-1878 coupled with two 10 inch Eminence woofers in isobarik loading, with a choke on the woofers at 150 Hz. It compares very favorably with my best 3 way consisting of an SEAS Millenium tweeter, Morel 3 inch dome mid, and 6 inch Peerless in transmission line loading, at half the cost.
I strongly recommend a full range with woofer vs. full range plus tweeter. I am currently using a Tang Band w3-1878 coupled with two 10 inch Eminence woofers in isobarik loading, with a choke on the woofers at 150 Hz. It compares very favorably with my best 3 way consisting of an SEAS Millenium tweeter, Morel 3 inch dome mid, and 6 inch Peerless in transmission line loading, at half the cost.
+1, it is usually done with XO only on the tweeter, so the extension of the FR determines the frequency, usually above 10k.
My preference is the FR + Woofer.
Why it has the potential to work better is down to the wavelength at the XO point. One gets rid of a very significant downside of XOs if one can space the drivers such that they are within a 1/4 wavelength (or less) of each other. If one can do this then the drivers are essentially co-incident -- to do the same with a helper tweeter it would need to be co-axial with an appropriate time delay on one driver.
Further, there are LOTs of decent midbasses to choose from that extend to 1kHz+, and a growing number of FRs that will hit 100 Hz or less and have extension to 20k+. This engenders a simple 1st order XO which means retention of time/phase. It is also an ideal place (if one takes care with driver selection) to do a series XO. The very nature of the series XO also means that the responses of the 2 drivers can automatically compensate for anomalies inherent in the drivers. This is one place where a passive XO can have advantages over active XOs.
Third, careful choice of XO frequency (amps & impedances too) can get you inherent BSC (doesn't apply to OBs, MJK has good coverage of that in his passive baffle articla)
Forth, back to the wavelengths... when down low, there are no issues with lobing of the dispersion because, due to 3, driver response is approaching omnidirectional.
And a comment on item 2. As the cost, sophistication and choice of DSP continues to plummet I can see some serious advantages to using a 1st order series XO to get into the ballpark, and then DSP EQ to tidy up the details.
It should be noted that a FAST is actually closer to a "real" 2-way than a helper tweeter, as the bass driver handles 2-4 octaves (using 80-320 Hz XO point) whereas a helper tweeter is more like a single octave (XO @ 10k) so you get more of the advantage out of job sharing.
dave
This is exactly what I want to do with my vintage CTS 12" woofer and a Mark Audio CHP-70-DP.
Thread about this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/232299-full-range-great-highs-new-post.html
I am thinking about the Mark Audio because in the write they mention the high roll off and paper material in relation to drivers from the 50's which I think my woofer is more in line with. Also, they match aesthetically as well and are affordable. I have to settle for the Gen-1 because the Gen 2 is out of stock.
Any opinions?
I strongly recommend a full range with woofer vs. full range plus tweeter. I am currently using a Tang Band w3-1878 coupled with two 10 inch Eminence woofers in isobarik loading, with a choke on the woofers at 150 Hz. It compares very favorably with my best 3 way consisting of an SEAS Millenium tweeter, Morel 3 inch dome mid, and 6 inch Peerless in transmission line loading, at half the cost.
Don't you have any HP filter on w3-1878 ???
My go to system is a fast system with a hivi m8n and aurasound whisper mid-tweeter. IMO the lobing issue makes a mid-tweet easier to work with.
I use equalizer APO and a PC soundcard as the crossover. I can control which drivers play which frequencies to hundreths of a db and control timing as well.
I use equalizer APO and a PC soundcard as the crossover. I can control which drivers play which frequencies to hundreths of a db and control timing as well.
I've tried adding a tweeter (super tweeter) to a fullrange on a few occasions without success, always killed the "magic" so gave up.
Larry
Larry
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- full range + woofer OR full range + tweeter ?