I've asked the question on the multi-way forum, but will post here too. I would be keen to know what FR driver you would suggest for this smallish stand-mounted triangular prism speaker. As I burn in the Alpair 6.2s on my home streamer, I'm becoming increasingly a member of the FR fan club. Speaker dimensions and volume will follow the driver, but volume most likely in the 4-10 litre range. Keen to seek a similar sound to my B&W 607s3s with forward mids and sparkly highs while retaining good bass performance. Can be sealed, ported or even TL (if a TL in a triangle exists!).
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Thanks Dave, will chamfer the baffle.
Could you stick your neck out and suggest which 4" MA driver to go for? Or at least a couple with their pros and cons? With the miniOnkens I note that the slot size and position is an important component, could I have a round port facing forwards at the top of the triangle instead? If a slot is essential, it would go at the front base of the triangle. How long should I make it, as wide as the bottom or top of the triangle or somewhere in between?
Could you stick your neck out and suggest which 4" MA driver to go for? Or at least a couple with their pros and cons? With the miniOnkens I note that the slot size and position is an important component, could I have a round port facing forwards at the top of the triangle instead? If a slot is essential, it would go at the front base of the triangle. How long should I make it, as wide as the bottom or top of the triangle or somewhere in between?
I’d run a slot out the bototm.
This is 9 litre… you might be able to morph it into your shape.
https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/CGR-dPlu-Ken7HD-0v81-240123.pdf
dave
This is 9 litre… you might be able to morph it into your shape.
https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/CGR-dPlu-Ken7HD-0v81-240123.pdf
dave
I'm finding that 15mm baltic birch ply supplies in Australia have declined in quality since the Russian trade embargo (especially problematic when kerfing) so this time around I'm planning to use 2mm "bendy ply" which can be tightly curved and glue laminated around a form to achieve any desired thickness. Patience and plenty of glue needed! So this would need about 6 layers which (with glue) would achieve about 15mm thickness. 12mm thick would mean less glue and less material. Hoping no brace needed because of the shape.
Understood re the vent, I could use double-sided tape to fix the vent spacers temporarily until happy. I will have a removable rear baffle for adjustments.
I've just run some rough volume calculations (triangular prism volume=1/2BHD excluding adjustment for rounded corners) and the triangle would need to be 303mm high x 233 wide (at the base) x 260 deep to achieve 9.18 litres (all measurements internal) while keeping good visual proportions for the Pluvia 7HD. Height and width are not so different from the CGR (332h x 212w) but depth is more than double the CGR (120mm in the CGR, 260mm in the triangle). This is because you lose a lot of volume as the triangle's sides converge at the top. Will this be an issue?
Understood re the vent, I could use double-sided tape to fix the vent spacers temporarily until happy. I will have a removable rear baffle for adjustments.
I've just run some rough volume calculations (triangular prism volume=1/2BHD excluding adjustment for rounded corners) and the triangle would need to be 303mm high x 233 wide (at the base) x 260 deep to achieve 9.18 litres (all measurements internal) while keeping good visual proportions for the Pluvia 7HD. Height and width are not so different from the CGR (332h x 212w) but depth is more than double the CGR (120mm in the CGR, 260mm in the triangle). This is because you lose a lot of volume as the triangle's sides converge at the top. Will this be an issue?