Can full range speakers be wired in series? I just ordered this low powered digital amplifier for a boombox project, and was planning on connecting one 8ohm pr. of TB bamboo cone full range speakers... but would 2pr per channel wired in series be better than one? I know "better" is subjective, I suppose louder would be my desired goal here (outdoor use). I'm sure amplification and enclosure constraints would impact sound quality, but I'm just curious if this can be done without sound quality degradation.
I've searched this topic pretty extensively and haven’t found anything. I apologize in advance if I've violated forum etiquette... I'm a newbie here. Actually I'm a social forum newbie - this is my first post of any kind ever.
Ultimate V1 TPA3116 Class D Stereo Power Amplifier Board w Bootstrap Caps | eBay
I've searched this topic pretty extensively and haven’t found anything. I apologize in advance if I've violated forum etiquette... I'm a newbie here. Actually I'm a social forum newbie - this is my first post of any kind ever.
Ultimate V1 TPA3116 Class D Stereo Power Amplifier Board w Bootstrap Caps | eBay
Welcome to the forum.
Well, they should work ok, but there would be a couple issues to keep in mind.
Two 8 ohm drivers wired in series would present a 16 ohm load to the amp. Wired in parallel would be 4 ohms.
There could also be a frequency response issue called lobing. The sound waves can cancel each other at some frequencies depending on the listening angle.
Would be preferable to just use a stereo pair. Maybe just go for a bigger pair?
Search for 'Boominator' to see similar projects. There's a thread about the 3116 amps too, you might look over there.
Have fun with your project!
Well, they should work ok, but there would be a couple issues to keep in mind.
Two 8 ohm drivers wired in series would present a 16 ohm load to the amp. Wired in parallel would be 4 ohms.
There could also be a frequency response issue called lobing. The sound waves can cancel each other at some frequencies depending on the listening angle.
Would be preferable to just use a stereo pair. Maybe just go for a bigger pair?
Search for 'Boominator' to see similar projects. There's a thread about the 3116 amps too, you might look over there.
Have fun with your project!
Hi, there's conflict !
Alan's answers were good, sort of reading trough 3116 FAQ's ... ( I mean the Boominator's thread )
But there's also the Big Is Better current
<no conflict with the Pro audio sector<
which would emply a (minimum ) 8 " driver.
Godzilla's answer would be to use an <<<eminence alpha 15">>>
That's a whizzer cone.
Also a coaxial Pro-style, Oh I see...budget !?!
Things get serious when thinking of outdoor, because the power goes
mostly in the bass section, and bass driver power is based on " acoustic
coupling " 😕 where Volume of air displacement depends on the membrane's diameter and velocity, so driver's excursion...
Alan's answers were good, sort of reading trough 3116 FAQ's ... ( I mean the Boominator's thread )
But there's also the Big Is Better current
<no conflict with the Pro audio sector<
which would emply a (minimum ) 8 " driver.
Godzilla's answer would be to use an <<<eminence alpha 15">>>
That's a whizzer cone.
Also a coaxial Pro-style, Oh I see...budget !?!
Things get serious when thinking of outdoor, because the power goes
mostly in the bass section, and bass driver power is based on " acoustic
coupling " 😕 where Volume of air displacement depends on the membrane's diameter and velocity, so driver's excursion...
Either the treble section needs "particular attention ", too.
Acoustic coupling might be seen as from another POV respect to bass.
The gas, air, plays a role too.
The moving mass of a tweeter -is much littler than the one for a bass trasducer
Oh, sorry, just a little deviation from the full range section because of the
"outdoor thinking", which leads to specialization of the differenct functions of the piece of equipments used.
Acoustic coupling might be seen as from another POV respect to bass.
The gas, air, plays a role too.
The moving mass of a tweeter -is much littler than the one for a bass trasducer
Oh, sorry, just a little deviation from the full range section because of the
"outdoor thinking", which leads to specialization of the differenct functions of the piece of equipments used.
So, in the end, I would suggest to invest in
1) studying
2) study a method to "cheat" that Acoustic coupling 😕😛
I find simply stunning the effect of a 10" woofer in addition to a car
coaxial speaker -Yes! a piezo in the middle. This would imply the use of a passive crossover. Mixed 4 and 8 Ω might make a melodic sound, either 🙄
1) studying
2) study a method to "cheat" that Acoustic coupling 😕😛
I find simply stunning the effect of a 10" woofer in addition to a car
coaxial speaker -Yes! a piezo in the middle. This would imply the use of a passive crossover. Mixed 4 and 8 Ω might make a melodic sound, either 🙄
Hi CroweMagnon,
My one experience with wiring drivers in series vs. parallel was with Vifa TC9FD. Putting them in series resulted in rolled off high freq--I assume due to additive voice coil inductance. Running them in parallel was more satisfactory in my case.
Cheers, Jim
My one experience with wiring drivers in series vs. parallel was with Vifa TC9FD. Putting them in series resulted in rolled off high freq--I assume due to additive voice coil inductance. Running them in parallel was more satisfactory in my case.
Cheers, Jim
>>> Godzilla's answer would be to use an <<<eminence alpha 15">>>
Use an Eminence Alpha 15.
Re. the OP, you can wire in series as long as your amp is compatible with 16ohm load.
Use an Eminence Alpha 15.
Re. the OP, you can wire in series as long as your amp is compatible with 16ohm load.
The inductance needed to roll off the frequency doubles when you double the impedance so running in series has no effect. Same with parallel, but opposite.
That's interesting. When I built the mini-Karlsonators, the highs were very much lower when wired in series as compared to parallel. Is there a reason why SS amps would be so affected by the change in impedance?
Cheers, Jim
Cheers, Jim
Jim Shearer, maybe not the answer but some thoughts.
Regarding 4-8-16 ohm loads for SS amps i think it's several decades ago since i saw a SS that have 16 ohm load drive printed in spec/data sheet. 16 ohm load needs a higher voltage swing and less current from amp and its power supply relative to 4 ohm that needs less voltage and more current, seems amps on the market is spec wise setup for 8 or 4 ohm and their needs for voltage/current supply.
Regarding serial verse parallel connected drivers.
Lets say that two drivers have 100% matching parameters electrical/mechanical/box they should sum in equal way if connected serial or parallel and amp has specs to drive both 16 or 4 ohm load.
Now lets say the two drivers do not have 100% matching parameters electrical/mechanical/box, here i think the serial ones is most controlled because they both depends on each other being half of the load when they time their fire ring, verse parallel where the fastest one fire and stop first and the slowest one fire later and stop later (relative to each other) because they don't depend each other now being parallel supplied.
Mismatch between drivers electrical/mechanical/box would probably only make micro or nano seconds misalignments but maybe it's what you noticed.
Regarding 4-8-16 ohm loads for SS amps i think it's several decades ago since i saw a SS that have 16 ohm load drive printed in spec/data sheet. 16 ohm load needs a higher voltage swing and less current from amp and its power supply relative to 4 ohm that needs less voltage and more current, seems amps on the market is spec wise setup for 8 or 4 ohm and their needs for voltage/current supply.
Regarding serial verse parallel connected drivers.
Lets say that two drivers have 100% matching parameters electrical/mechanical/box they should sum in equal way if connected serial or parallel and amp has specs to drive both 16 or 4 ohm load.
Now lets say the two drivers do not have 100% matching parameters electrical/mechanical/box, here i think the serial ones is most controlled because they both depends on each other being half of the load when they time their fire ring, verse parallel where the fastest one fire and stop first and the slowest one fire later and stop later (relative to each other) because they don't depend each other now being parallel supplied.
Mismatch between drivers electrical/mechanical/box would probably only make micro or nano seconds misalignments but maybe it's what you noticed.
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