Hi everyone,
I am planning to build a full range speaker system with woofer, Mid-Woofer and tweeter. But also cost effective ! Can anyone help me with following questions:
My Amp is class AB 350W RMS each channel with 4-8ohm compatibility
1. I have selected following speakers for the project. Need your expert advice
I only can purchase from ebay UK, Amazon UK and Aliexpress China.
2. Which Box design software will fit in this project? The Woofers have all necessary parameters to design the box.
Your expert advice is much appreciated. I will post my progress in this threat once I start building them. Thanks.
Regards
Leo
I am planning to build a full range speaker system with woofer, Mid-Woofer and tweeter. But also cost effective ! Can anyone help me with following questions:
My Amp is class AB 350W RMS each channel with 4-8ohm compatibility
1. I have selected following speakers for the project. Need your expert advice
a. Woofer: 10" 8ohms
PAW10.1 10" 25cm 8Ohm SVC Midrange Bass Woofer Single 200w RMS
b. Mid-Woofer: 6.5" 8ohms
PAW6.1 6.5" 17cm 8Ohm SVC Midrange Bass Woofer Single 80w RMS
c. Tweeter: Anything that fits. Or any advice will be appreciated.
Link to Aliexpress
PAW10.1 10" 25cm 8Ohm SVC Midrange Bass Woofer Single 200w RMS
b. Mid-Woofer: 6.5" 8ohms
PAW6.1 6.5" 17cm 8Ohm SVC Midrange Bass Woofer Single 80w RMS
c. Tweeter: Anything that fits. Or any advice will be appreciated.
Link to Aliexpress
I only can purchase from ebay UK, Amazon UK and Aliexpress China.
2. Which Box design software will fit in this project? The Woofers have all necessary parameters to design the box.
Your expert advice is much appreciated. I will post my progress in this threat once I start building them. Thanks.
Regards
Leo
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Why not just build the Carmody Tarkus? All the hard work is done, a number of builds documented, simpler for a first build.
Tarkus - undefinition
If you insist on using those drivers you will need more data than is on the website, you need the Theil-Small parameters which are not provided. Those drivers are also designed for car use which tend to be for small closed volumes and therefore limited bass which will not give you full range. Better to go for drivers that are designed for hifi.
Tarkus - undefinition
If you insist on using those drivers you will need more data than is on the website, you need the Theil-Small parameters which are not provided. Those drivers are also designed for car use which tend to be for small closed volumes and therefore limited bass which will not give you full range. Better to go for drivers that are designed for hifi.
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Apologies on the TS parameters, they are on the website, just could not browse them on my IPAD, OK on PC.
The 10" woofer, based on MH-Audio calculator looks like it need the following - 142l (very large) to give f3 of 34hz but the trace looks very odd. Sealed (High Qts point to needing sealed) - 7900l !!!!!! to get f3 of 70hz and Qt of .707. Looks like it was designed for an open baffle.
Have a play yourself - HiFi Loudspeaker Design
You will also need to learn how to design a crossover which is not trivial and to do that you need measurement equipment so not an easy task, as previously said, find an existing well proven design for a first build.
The 10" woofer, based on MH-Audio calculator looks like it need the following - 142l (very large) to give f3 of 34hz but the trace looks very odd. Sealed (High Qts point to needing sealed) - 7900l !!!!!! to get f3 of 70hz and Qt of .707. Looks like it was designed for an open baffle.
Have a play yourself - HiFi Loudspeaker Design
You will also need to learn how to design a crossover which is not trivial and to do that you need measurement equipment so not an easy task, as previously said, find an existing well proven design for a first build.
Hi Ugg10,
Thanks for the advice. Yes you are right. I found the model in ebay uk site but item location is in USA. will be costly with tax and shipping charge.
However I found it in other UK site
Got the Midrange that Tarkus mentioned
And the Tweeter as well
What DIY amplifire should I use for it? Any idea?
From the Tarkus write up -
"The impedance load of the Tarkus is generally safe for most amplifiers. It does dip down to 5 Ohms a few times, but that's pretty normal, even for commercial speakers that call themselves "8 Ohm nominal." It goes without saying, the Tarkus like some power behind them. They will get to 106 dB @ 75 Watts, before xmax becomes an issue. However, having an amp with more Wattage than that allows for some headroom, which is a good thing."
I'm not an amp builder so would probably just look on ebay for a second hand power amp of around 100W into 8 ohms. Rotel are pretty good and robust and have an fairly neutral sound or if you are on a budget then a Behringer A500 (calls AB_ or A800 (Class D) would do to start with. For the cost of building an amp with a decent power supply you may was well buy second hand.
However, and I am happy to be corrected or educated by those more knowledgeable than myself, the Honey Badger (search the solid state section on here and DIY AudioStore has the PCBs) looks like a good starting point if you want to wield a soldering iron or possibly some of the L15 boards on ebay (no idea of quality may want to ask on the Solid State Amp section which is best). But by the time you have bought the pcb, polluted them got a 400VA+ transformer, decent power supply with decent amount of capacitance and a case with heat sinks IMO economics become challenging unless you like building stuff. Just my opinion so please take it or leave it.
"The impedance load of the Tarkus is generally safe for most amplifiers. It does dip down to 5 Ohms a few times, but that's pretty normal, even for commercial speakers that call themselves "8 Ohm nominal." It goes without saying, the Tarkus like some power behind them. They will get to 106 dB @ 75 Watts, before xmax becomes an issue. However, having an amp with more Wattage than that allows for some headroom, which is a good thing."
I'm not an amp builder so would probably just look on ebay for a second hand power amp of around 100W into 8 ohms. Rotel are pretty good and robust and have an fairly neutral sound or if you are on a budget then a Behringer A500 (calls AB_ or A800 (Class D) would do to start with. For the cost of building an amp with a decent power supply you may was well buy second hand.
However, and I am happy to be corrected or educated by those more knowledgeable than myself, the Honey Badger (search the solid state section on here and DIY AudioStore has the PCBs) looks like a good starting point if you want to wield a soldering iron or possibly some of the L15 boards on ebay (no idea of quality may want to ask on the Solid State Amp section which is best). But by the time you have bought the pcb, polluted them got a 400VA+ transformer, decent power supply with decent amount of capacitance and a case with heat sinks IMO economics become challenging unless you like building stuff. Just my opinion so please take it or leave it.
The woofer P is from the datasheet:
Rated Noise Power (IEC 2685 18.1) P=70W
You need 175W (RMS) for max. excursion in the said enclosure (with 8 ohms sub/amp).
Note: the driver was designed with sealed app in mind thus the lower power @Xmax, 70 vs. 175.
Read the table with average power in music (for a certain crossover) in the link:
Music and the Human Ear
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Have you built an amplifier before?
I haven't heard the Tarkus.Respectjest said:
I ran very similar in the mid '90s except I had transmission line bass.
Very few but only the amplifiers. Not a perfect speaker box with calculated with various parameters
It doesn't matter, most amps will work properly with most speakers.
The chip amps work well, sound good and are easy to build. For something simple using discrete components, the amp camp amp has a smooth sound.
The chip amps work well, sound good and are easy to build. For something simple using discrete components, the amp camp amp has a smooth sound.
Isn’t the ACA an 8W class A amp, not sure this will drive an 85dB/w/m (assuming the OP builds the Tarkus) that well, but happy to be educated.
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