Yeah, I don't have much sympathy for all the 'bleeding hearts' bemoaning the high cost of most things audio related, just look at what decent drivers, amps, receivers, etc., cost 40-50 yrs ago, then plug them into an inflation calculator. This applies to most purchases these days, though often the trade-off is a relatively short life-span. Little wonder that the average household back then required a 'jack-o-trades' to keep it functioning and DIY ruled in electronic, mechanical luxury items.
Go back further and a nice mono radio/phono console competed with a a major purchase for the average household. I have a 1939 Sears Silvertone made by RCA that sold for $399 which could by a nice used car or a significant down-payment on a new 'BIG three' model (Ford, Chevrolet or Chrysler), so while 'I feel your pain' trying to fund an audio repair/upgrade/whatever, especially in these troubling economic times, to say I'm 'green with envy' at today's myriad choices and high performance/cost ratio at relatively insignificant prices is to grossly understate it.
GM
Go back further and a nice mono radio/phono console competed with a a major purchase for the average household. I have a 1939 Sears Silvertone made by RCA that sold for $399 which could by a nice used car or a significant down-payment on a new 'BIG three' model (Ford, Chevrolet or Chrysler), so while 'I feel your pain' trying to fund an audio repair/upgrade/whatever, especially in these troubling economic times, to say I'm 'green with envy' at today's myriad choices and high performance/cost ratio at relatively insignificant prices is to grossly understate it.
GM
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guys guys guys, what are you doing ? - don't let the manufacturers hear you saying this, gotta keep the pressure on 😉
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Well I can tell you that those Moon Onkens have ruined me. My $4k PMCs are doing duty as speaker stands for a pair of plywood boxes and it's just not right 
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planet10 said:
I guess this is another thread, but I may get interested in this if it means preserving my car and my ears.
planet10 said:
Jeff's work and morals are to be applauded and I wish him the very best in what are tough financial times worldwide. Of course this still leaves me without a centre speaker, so if he did feel like releasing some of the details to the DIY community I am sure it would be appreciated.
😀
Charles
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Since this is DIY, why not have a go at a design yourself. It could be mocked up with some wood pretty quickly without a lot of expense.
Here's a starting point:
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/images/ChiliChang3D.gif
Here's a starting point:
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/images/ChiliChang3D.gif
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Another way forward is a simple base reflex. Fostex provide a simple design with the FE127E, it's even printed on a little sheet of paper which ships with the driver. They've taken the guess work out of most of the design but you can adapt it. They use a 10 litre volume to get down to 71Hz (good enough for HT). They have one port, but you can use two if the total area is the same and you stick to the 8cm length they prescribe.
It would need to be finessed, but something like this might serve:
It would need to be finessed, but something like this might serve:
Attachments
OK now I am just gonna have to start making some saw-dust huh?😀
Thanks for the BR design (and naming rights too
) it might be the quickest way forward and get rid of my nasty 2-way sealed existing box.
I have been reading Dave_The_Bass' Saburo build thread here and still think a mini Saburo may still be worth considering. In fact since reading his story, I am now tossing up Frugel vs Saburo as my main LRs... not sure the WAF is quite high enough with the Sab's
c
Thanks for the BR design (and naming rights too
) it might be the quickest way forward and get rid of my nasty 2-way sealed existing box. I have been reading Dave_The_Bass' Saburo build thread here and still think a mini Saburo may still be worth considering. In fact since reading his story, I am now tossing up Frugel vs Saburo as my main LRs... not sure the WAF is quite high enough with the Sab's
c
Just tell your wife you're building them for someone else. Then when they are finished, blind fold her and have her listen. If she likes, they stay! If she can't get over the size, I'm sure you can find someone who will take them off your hand for the cost of the wood.
Just to point out your vent aspect ratio is severe; I'd expect them to become largely resistive.
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Scottmoose said:
which might not be a bad thing, kind of 'Onken' like, although the ports are a bit short for that it's more likely to improve their performance than otherwise.
Historically the opposite of an Onken style box as it happens, but certainly in line with the modern interpretations like the Fonkens. Proscribed vent lengths aren't really that much of an issue, unless you're desperately wanting to stick with the 1970s style cab., and providing they're not too long.
My brain hurts 😀
Waaay too much forum trolling. But worth it in the long run (I hope). The Mikasas are locked in for my new mains, a 30Hz TH seen here (thanks Erik) provides the sub-bass. This still leaves my centre issue, so I was thinking of something like a cross between a Mikasa and an Aiko. Something like this (hacked bitmap - ignore dimensions please) maybe??
Same CC and overall width as the Mikasa, a bit shallower (350ish) lots shorter (900ish). I would appreciate some assistance in dimensioning the flare but I don't want to upset any body if this is starting to look too much like the Carder product.
Charles.
Waaay too much forum trolling. But worth it in the long run (I hope). The Mikasas are locked in for my new mains, a 30Hz TH seen here (thanks Erik) provides the sub-bass. This still leaves my centre issue, so I was thinking of something like a cross between a Mikasa and an Aiko. Something like this (hacked bitmap - ignore dimensions please) maybe??
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Same CC and overall width as the Mikasa, a bit shallower (350ish) lots shorter (900ish). I would appreciate some assistance in dimensioning the flare but I don't want to upset any body if this is starting to look too much like the Carder product.
Charles.
You really are begging for trouble if you try going down that route. It's not a good idea for a centre-channel, which are designed for outright clarity, very precise / stable imaging in the horizontal plane, and don't need to work particularly low. Even assuming you overcame the basic design problems involved, you'll find voices seem about 1m wide (or more) if you tried this, and that's not going to work particularly well.
Back to the design, you'd need to come up with something with minimal distortion, a high cut-off, little gain in it's operating BW and so on & so forth. TBH, I'm not quite sure what special advantages you're hoping to achieve?
Back to the design, you'd need to come up with something with minimal distortion, a high cut-off, little gain in it's operating BW and so on & so forth. TBH, I'm not quite sure what special advantages you're hoping to achieve?
Thanks Scott, I probably should have mentioned laying it flat and mounting it below my plasma screen. The main goal I guess is something that is "harmonious" with the Mikasas both sonically and visually.
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