Hi TheShaman,
Thanks for your message and suggestion.
I discussed with our team and they said, the RCA-->XLR module is based on DRV134 chip after comparing all the available chips, also they made important special measurements to make sure it works perfectly with 125ASX2 module, so the RCA-->XLR module could drive 125ASX2 module directly and powerful, no need "buffer" in RCA-->XLR module.
Best Regards,
Ghent
Hi Ghent,
I was actually responding to James who wishes to alter the sound.
I forgot to quote him. 🙂
I was actually responding to James who wishes to alter the sound.
I forgot to quote him. 🙂
Some pictures of A200 Basic-Kit
Here are some pictures of A200 Basic-Kit
By the way, there are many connectors on rear-plate, for the reason of presenting multiple purpose of our Kits.
We could customize bottom-plates or rear-plates for your specific project if you tell us🙂
Best Regards,
Ghent
Here are some pictures of A200 Basic-Kit
By the way, there are many connectors on rear-plate, for the reason of presenting multiple purpose of our Kits.
We could customize bottom-plates or rear-plates for your specific project if you tell us🙂
Best Regards,
Ghent
Attachments
Some pictures of A100 Basic-Kit
Here are some new pictures of A100 Basic-Kit.
There are more reserved space (than old version A000 case of year 2011) to install other small miniDSP module or "Buffer" inside case, so to customize your project🙂
Best Regards,
Ghent
Here are some new pictures of A100 Basic-Kit.
There are more reserved space (than old version A000 case of year 2011) to install other small miniDSP module or "Buffer" inside case, so to customize your project🙂
Best Regards,
Ghent
Attachments
Thanks, Grosser09.
Also, we already released the latest "Brief installation Guide v2.1", it's more simple than last year, I guess anybody would know how to assemble it with our guide🙂 (I typed it word by word, my poor english....)
By the way, if we equip our kits with different rear-plates, for example:
* Stereo Plate, only RCA and 2 pairs of Binding posts
* Monoblock(via XLR input) Plate, only XLR and pair of Binding posts
* Monoblock(via RCA input) Plate, only RCA and pair of Binding posts
So that HiFi users could easily change rear-plates according to their environments, and have more fun to DIY.
I'm not sure whether it's a good idea, hope to hear suggestions from friends.
Best Regards,
Ghent
Attachments
New Promotional Price List from March
Hi everyone,
Now we release the promotional pricelist from 1st Mar, please check the attached picture to know more.
The features of new price list are, more cheaper prices with Free shipping. All prices we listed are with free shipping.
Meanwhile, we also provide "Completed Amplifier" for choosing. We will assemble and test it carefully before dispatching your package.
The most cost-effective Kits are:
* A000 Basic-Kit ($269 free shipping)
* A100 Basic-Kit ($279 free shipping)
All of our Kits and assembled amplifiers support Monoblock 550w via XLR(balanced signals) input, but if you need build Monoblock via RCA input, then you should choose Pro-Kit with RCA-->XLR transformer inside.😀
Please contact me directly: windowsxp@vip.163.com, I'm usually email-online
![IMGDEAD]](/community/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BIMGDEAD%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.kovice.com%2Fghent-kit%2Fghent-kit-20120301.png%5B%2FIMGDEAD%5D&hash=2f90c585a2d982f555ac45ee6411021a)
Cheers,
Ghent
Hi everyone,
Now we release the promotional pricelist from 1st Mar, please check the attached picture to know more.
The features of new price list are, more cheaper prices with Free shipping. All prices we listed are with free shipping.
Meanwhile, we also provide "Completed Amplifier" for choosing. We will assemble and test it carefully before dispatching your package.
The most cost-effective Kits are:
* A000 Basic-Kit ($269 free shipping)
* A100 Basic-Kit ($279 free shipping)
All of our Kits and assembled amplifiers support Monoblock 550w via XLR(balanced signals) input, but if you need build Monoblock via RCA input, then you should choose Pro-Kit with RCA-->XLR transformer inside.😀
Please contact me directly: windowsxp@vip.163.com, I'm usually email-online
Cheers,
Ghent
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Fantastic, Ghent! And thanks for the cheaper prices and free shipping auction. My amp is about to die. As soon as it does, expect an order from me. All the best to you.
Anyone wanna answer a dumb question?
My Marantz integrated amp is dying and Ghent's seems like it could be a great replacement. But I don't really know. My goal is to assemble a great small system, for $1,000 or less, that'll drive my hand-me-down Dynaudio bookshelf speakers now and allow me to upgrade in the future.
1) Is there a name brand power amp using the Icepower 125asx2 module, like Ghent's, that I could read about--just to familiarize myself with the pre- and power-amp configuration?
2) To play my records and iPod through one of Ghent's amps, I'll need a pre-amp with a balanced, low-impedance (~100 Ohm) output, right? Is there an affordable model that you'd recommend with this amp? Is this the kind of pre-amp that a noob like me could build?
3) Lastly, am I even right to be considering something like the A100, or are these really for stereophiles who are buying a pair to use as monoblock amps or something?
Thanks in advance for any tips, and I apologize for my ignorance. I'm excited about the possibilities of building my own amp, DAC, or speakers, but I've got a lot to learn.
My Marantz integrated amp is dying and Ghent's seems like it could be a great replacement. But I don't really know. My goal is to assemble a great small system, for $1,000 or less, that'll drive my hand-me-down Dynaudio bookshelf speakers now and allow me to upgrade in the future.
1) Is there a name brand power amp using the Icepower 125asx2 module, like Ghent's, that I could read about--just to familiarize myself with the pre- and power-amp configuration?
2) To play my records and iPod through one of Ghent's amps, I'll need a pre-amp with a balanced, low-impedance (~100 Ohm) output, right? Is there an affordable model that you'd recommend with this amp? Is this the kind of pre-amp that a noob like me could build?
3) Lastly, am I even right to be considering something like the A100, or are these really for stereophiles who are buying a pair to use as monoblock amps or something?
Thanks in advance for any tips, and I apologize for my ignorance. I'm excited about the possibilities of building my own amp, DAC, or speakers, but I've got a lot to learn.
Hi Erkit,
Thank for your possible offer, please mail me directly windowsxp@vip.163.com if you have further question, because I haven't recived your message via forum's mail system.
Best Regards,
Ghent
Hey erkit,
I think one of these should fit your needs nicely. B&O supplies these boards to numerous manufacturers who then put them into their own products. You can get a feel for what's happening with them here... Attack of the Clone Amplifiers - Reviews and News from Audioholics But that article is about a different and earlier version of the B&O ICE amplifiers. If you do some searching on the web you'll likely find more information is available about this current board too.
FWIW, I heard an A200 Pro-Kit amplifier at a party this past weekend, and it was a pretty nice sounding amp. I'd like to see if I can get a loaner to do some longer listening sessions in my system before I pull the trigger though.
P.S. found another interesting article... http://hifi-advice.com/digital-amps-compared-review.html
I think one of these should fit your needs nicely. B&O supplies these boards to numerous manufacturers who then put them into their own products. You can get a feel for what's happening with them here... Attack of the Clone Amplifiers - Reviews and News from Audioholics But that article is about a different and earlier version of the B&O ICE amplifiers. If you do some searching on the web you'll likely find more information is available about this current board too.
FWIW, I heard an A200 Pro-Kit amplifier at a party this past weekend, and it was a pretty nice sounding amp. I'd like to see if I can get a loaner to do some longer listening sessions in my system before I pull the trigger though.
P.S. found another interesting article... http://hifi-advice.com/digital-amps-compared-review.html
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Hi Erkit,
Regards
Mike
You can drive the power amp directly from iPod. However, for playing vinyl records you need a real phono preamp that makes the needed frequency corrections (+ following volume control). That is not so easy to build without hassle. You can use unbalanced chain as well - it is easier to handle if your complete chain is not balanced from start to end.
You can use the module as stereo amp all right. It is actually the easiest and cheapest way how to come to a high end amp with decent power in DIY even if you are not a electronic geek 😉.
Regards
Mike
Thanks ghentxu, I purchased A100 kit, now it's up and running.
The build is sturdy, the front plat is beautiful, no problem with assemble the system. Initial impression: the sound is great! the mid and lows are fluid, pleasing, the highs is very detailed. overall sound is very clean and transparent. More focused. And sound comes from out side the speakers, e.g. sometimes highs are hovering on top of the speakers.
Big step up from current amp: NAD C 375BEE.
Right now I directly hook it to the RCA out of SqueezeBox Touch, with digital volume at 2/5 ~ 1/2. I ordered the kit with potentiometer, but didn't hook it up yet, because worried that it may compromise the sound quality. Will try it later.
Also tried hook it to the preamp output of NAD C 375BEE, however that will introduce 'hmmm' noise.
I'll do more listening and will post pictures soon.
The build is sturdy, the front plat is beautiful, no problem with assemble the system. Initial impression: the sound is great! the mid and lows are fluid, pleasing, the highs is very detailed. overall sound is very clean and transparent. More focused. And sound comes from out side the speakers, e.g. sometimes highs are hovering on top of the speakers.
Big step up from current amp: NAD C 375BEE.
Right now I directly hook it to the RCA out of SqueezeBox Touch, with digital volume at 2/5 ~ 1/2. I ordered the kit with potentiometer, but didn't hook it up yet, because worried that it may compromise the sound quality. Will try it later.
Also tried hook it to the preamp output of NAD C 375BEE, however that will introduce 'hmmm' noise.
I'll do more listening and will post pictures soon.
And it looks like IcePower ASX250 can fit into A100 as well, but it will be a very tight fit, and probably need longer internal cables, because cables need to go around the icepower module, no room on top.
ghentxu, do you have any comments on that?
As for sound quality, I heard that ASX50 and ASX150 are the better sounding than ASX250. And the best sounding solution is bridge ASX150 into mono blocks. Is that right?
ghentxu, do you have any comments on that?
As for sound quality, I heard that ASX50 and ASX150 are the better sounding than ASX250. And the best sounding solution is bridge ASX150 into mono blocks. Is that right?
Hi Yfei, maybe you are right. this case is specific for 125ASX2, we haven't installed 250ASX2 into it before, you might try it🙂
Anyone have an idea where the aux supply fuse is located (F300?) ?
I just hooked up one of my modules and there is no voltage on the aux supply (haven't tried it the amp yet but I'm hoping it's OK and it's just an issue with the fuse).
I just hooked up one of my modules and there is no voltage on the aux supply (haven't tried it the amp yet but I'm hoping it's OK and it's just an issue with the fuse).
IIRC it's the three components right behind the connector. However, before you do anything with the AUX-suypply I suggest you disconnect the external circuitry and verify that the amp runs ok without that.
/U.
/U.
Nope, I've tracked it on the board and it's on the other edge of the PCB.
Funny thing is that on the top you can't spot the fuse.
Plus if you track the two terminals at the bottom, on top they seem to belong to a capacitor.
But that's marked as a fuse and indeed on the problematic board there is no continuity (like the fuse has blown) while on the good one there is.
I shorted the terminals and now the aux supply is powered normally.
It's strange because I never connected anything on aux.
Funny thing is that on the top you can't spot the fuse.
Plus if you track the two terminals at the bottom, on top they seem to belong to a capacitor.
But that's marked as a fuse and indeed on the problematic board there is no continuity (like the fuse has blown) while on the good one there is.
I shorted the terminals and now the aux supply is powered normally.
It's strange because I never connected anything on aux.
