i use a Y-splitter before but have modded the rca's by connecting them in parallel now.
i'm not an audiophile but in my amateur ears charlize is better and a bit powerful than SI.
i'm not an audiophile but in my amateur ears charlize is better and a bit powerful than SI.
Re: Re: Fried t-amp?
when connecting the R and L input of the above diagram (mod 2), are both C3 and C4 bridged?
Lostcause said:
I'm no EE but I think you need a bridge to ground on your signal wires. Did you remove R01/02?
From what I've been told the resistors to ground need to be in front of the new capacitors so remove R01/02 and put in a 50K bridge on each signal wire before the caps (not after them).
(The pot usually creates the bridge on the stealth mod)
Again, I'm no expert but I have done a few of these babies and I think this will work.
Fingers crossed!
Lee
when connecting the R and L input of the above diagram (mod 2), are both C3 and C4 bridged?
weng said:i'm not an audiophile but in my amateur ears charlize is better and a bit powerful than SI.
That's good to hear!
I have bought a replacement t-amp, but I am now waiting on a Charlize amp to arrive in the post, as well as a tubalizer. I am thinking that I will use the Charlize on my main system in the box I intended for the SI t-amp mods, using the tubalizer as a buffer between my phono pre-amp/line selector (a cheap TC-754, its great!) and the charlize. I am also new to audiophile (but not to audio, been an audio engineer for a long time now) so this is all very much great fun!
Re: Re: Re: Fried t-amp?
Yes they are, that is why L1 & L2 are removed. It is easier to solder to the bridged pads.
weng said:
when connecting the R and L input of the above diagram (mod 2), are both C3 and C4 bridged?
Yes they are, that is why L1 & L2 are removed. It is easier to solder to the bridged pads.
kaban said:
That's good to hear!
I have bought a replacement t-amp, but I am now waiting on a Charlize amp to arrive in the post, as well as a tubalizer. I am thinking that I will use the Charlize on my main system in the box I intended for the SI t-amp mods, using the tubalizer as a buffer between my phono pre-amp/line selector (a cheap TC-754, its great!) and the charlize. I am also new to audiophile (but not to audio, been an audio engineer for a long time now) so this is all very much great fun!
i have installed L1 but no sound. checked with a multimeter, L1 was open (probably this was due to the bad terminal end on one side). bridged L1, still no sound.
decided to proceed with stealth mod 2 and was successful using only a 1uF/50v ELNA elec cap found in my parts bin. i was just assuming that this cap is better than the 0.33uF stock cap. the result wasn't bad. but i did not listen to it for a long time (in full mode) as i have to use it back on the tweeters. hurray my SI amp is alive and kicking again 😀
thanks again guys for your help.
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