So I bought a Hifonics Brutus bx1500D class amp and hooked it up. When I turned it on I saw the power light go on for about 5 seconds and then I saw sparks comming out of the amp and a hard stench of something being 
burnt That's when I panicked and turned everything off. I hadn't even hooked up a speaker to it, I just plugged it in to see if it would work. I did the installation myself 🙂D first time installer) and I made sure everything was hooked up properly but still the amp just burnt up.... I then noticed something, and this is where i'm going with my rant. The bottom chasis of the amp was touching a bolt that was bolted to the chasis of the car (ie. Ground). My question: Did this cause the amp to spark from inside and die? Now I can't turn it on at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
burnt That's when I panicked and turned everything off. I hadn't even hooked up a speaker to it, I just plugged it in to see if it would work. I did the installation myself 🙂D first time installer) and I made sure everything was hooked up properly but still the amp just burnt up.... I then noticed something, and this is where i'm going with my rant. The bottom chasis of the amp was touching a bolt that was bolted to the chasis of the car (ie. Ground). My question: Did this cause the amp to spark from inside and die? Now I can't turn it on at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Hi memito
I don't know that particular amp but if everything was really connected correctly, this is clearly a warranty case.
Unless the warranty doesn't cover DIY-install
I propose a friendly talk with your dealer.
/Hugo 🙂
I don't know that particular amp but if everything was really connected correctly, this is clearly a warranty case.
Unless the warranty doesn't cover DIY-install
I propose a friendly talk with your dealer.
/Hugo 🙂
the chassis is usually connected to the neg terminal. so that touching the bolt should have no effect.
most likely you got your positive and negative leads wired the other way, that's why it was fried, there is usually a diode connected in a reverse bias accross the battery leads to take care of this things....
if he reversed the power wires, there should be no light and the amp will pop the fuse instantly.
he did say the power light turned on for 5 seconds before going into smoke.
he did say the power light turned on for 5 seconds before going into smoke.
or a possible cause might be:
there could be a loose screw, as in falling around inside the chassis which could have caused shorts........ maybe dropped by a technician or came off of something......just a thought.
there could be a loose screw, as in falling around inside the chassis which could have caused shorts........ maybe dropped by a technician or came off of something......just a thought.
OK, so then the amp chasis touching ground would have nothing to do with it being fried? As far as it powering on, I KNOW it powered on. I can tell the difference between a power light and sparks flying out of the amp. This particular amp has a "hifonics" logo that turns blue when it's powered on, the logo turned on, that's how I know it had power, then it just turned off and that's when the sparks flew and smoke came out. The thing that really bothers me is that no fuses were blown. The power line that I have comming from the battery has a 120 amp breaker, then that line goes to a power distribution block where the amp was hooked to an 80 amp fuse, and then the actual amp has two 60 amp fuses and neither of the fuses or the breaker popped when it started smoking. This is fustrating.
Oh yeah, one more question. When I was testing the connections with a voltmeter I touched ground and power on the amp (with the wires hooked up to the amp) and it gave me around 12.4 volts, then I touched remote and power and it gave me the same 12.4 volts (the head unit was not turned on so there wasn't any power going through remote). Is that normal? It sucks that after spending two weeks taking your car apart and putting it back together it don't work.
Oh yeah, one more question. When I was testing the connections with a voltmeter I touched ground and power on the amp (with the wires hooked up to the amp) and it gave me around 12.4 volts, then I touched remote and power and it gave me the same 12.4 volts (the head unit was not turned on so there wasn't any power going through remote). Is that normal? It sucks that after spending two weeks taking your car apart and putting it back together it don't work.
It sounds like your remote wire grounded out .. . Double-check to see if it got pinched anywhere, and that the exposed portion of the wire is not touching the amp's chassis . .. If that is the case, it would explain why you did not blow any fuses . ... . 2¢
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