Just picked up a pair of old "Fried" - Bud Fried - Signature A/6 speakers.
Both speakers work, but the left one has a slightly muffled sound. What gives?
So, have tested out by exchanging the wires – I.e by switching L&R wires on the Amplifier. Making one speaker the L, which was earlier R, and vice versa.
One speaker , speaker X, is definitely voicing EVERYTHING with lesser volume and strength as compared to the other speaker in the Pair. Tweeter is working, but plays fainter. Midwoofer is working, but again fainter. Thus both the tweeter and midwoofer of speaker X are playing fainting as compared to the other of the Pair
Do note that the M.A.R.S system cable is NOT present :
FYI:
The m.a.r.s.® technology requires a two-conductor interconnect between the two loudspeakers. In order to maintain proper polarity Fried has supplied you with a twenty (20) foot cable for this purpose. The two-bladed plug on each end of the cable can only be inserted one way. If you wish to use a different cable, it is necessary to solder the plugs on the two ends so that the conductors are, in effect, crossed. In other words, one conductor should be wired to the larger blade on one end and the smaller blade on the other, and vice versa with the other conductor.
NON-m.a.r.s.® OPERATION:
Your A/6 loudspeakers may also be used in a non-m.a.r.s.® mode. Included with each loudspeaker is a short jumper cable that should be attached from the m.a.r.s.® socket to the negative (black) binding post to operate in the non-m.a.r.s.® mode. One may completely remove the knurled cap of the black binding post and place the ring connector of the jumper on the post. After replacing the cap, you are ready to conveniently switch between m.a.r.s.® and non-m.a.r.s.® modes by either using the m.a.r.s.® cable or the non-m.a.r.s.® jumpers.
Opened up the Crossover and found the below - it's supposed to be a SERIES Crossover (not parallel)
These are 23-24 year old speakers.
Both speakers work, but the left one has a slightly muffled sound. What gives?
So, have tested out by exchanging the wires – I.e by switching L&R wires on the Amplifier. Making one speaker the L, which was earlier R, and vice versa.
One speaker , speaker X, is definitely voicing EVERYTHING with lesser volume and strength as compared to the other speaker in the Pair. Tweeter is working, but plays fainter. Midwoofer is working, but again fainter. Thus both the tweeter and midwoofer of speaker X are playing fainting as compared to the other of the Pair
Do note that the M.A.R.S system cable is NOT present :
FYI:
The m.a.r.s.® technology requires a two-conductor interconnect between the two loudspeakers. In order to maintain proper polarity Fried has supplied you with a twenty (20) foot cable for this purpose. The two-bladed plug on each end of the cable can only be inserted one way. If you wish to use a different cable, it is necessary to solder the plugs on the two ends so that the conductors are, in effect, crossed. In other words, one conductor should be wired to the larger blade on one end and the smaller blade on the other, and vice versa with the other conductor.
NON-m.a.r.s.® OPERATION:
Your A/6 loudspeakers may also be used in a non-m.a.r.s.® mode. Included with each loudspeaker is a short jumper cable that should be attached from the m.a.r.s.® socket to the negative (black) binding post to operate in the non-m.a.r.s.® mode. One may completely remove the knurled cap of the black binding post and place the ring connector of the jumper on the post. After replacing the cap, you are ready to conveniently switch between m.a.r.s.® and non-m.a.r.s.® modes by either using the m.a.r.s.® cable or the non-m.a.r.s.® jumpers.
Opened up the Crossover and found the below - it's supposed to be a SERIES Crossover (not parallel)
These are 23-24 year old speakers.
Attachments
How do I sort this out and make them play properly?
Amplifier : https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/harman-kardon/avr240.shtml
(true Watts - not exaggerated Watts Power)
Amplifier : https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/harman-kardon/avr240.shtml
Harman Kardon AVR240
Power output: 65 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo)(true Watts - not exaggerated Watts Power)
I would first duplicate the connection cable.
Bypass the connectors if you cannot find/get them.
If it works then, fine.
If not, you will have to test the components in the crossovers,
If marked, see if they are within tolerance. If not, compare to mate from 'good'.
Be systematic, take notes, you will get there. It will be worth it.
Bud's stuff is not magic, it's just built from a different perspective, as in, 'when does Zurich arrive at this train?"
Bypass the connectors if you cannot find/get them.
If it works then, fine.
If not, you will have to test the components in the crossovers,
If marked, see if they are within tolerance. If not, compare to mate from 'good'.
Be systematic, take notes, you will get there. It will be worth it.
Bud's stuff is not magic, it's just built from a different perspective, as in, 'when does Zurich arrive at this train?"
1. I Duplicated the connection cable today.
One speakers' smaller MARS hole connected to the other speakers Larger MARS hole. And vice versa.
Did not perfectly CORRECT the sound of the malfunctioning speaker.
2. However, I started listening to the malfunctioning speaker's tweeter more closely....and it seems that it is what is causing the offense.
3. I spoke with David Ellis of Ellis audio in Minnesota - he has been dealing with Fried speakers and the Hiquphon Drivers since 20-25 years. His recommendation was to test, in this order
http://www.ellisaudio.com/
a. Drivers' resistances
b. Capacitors and Crossover
c. MARS connections.
Given that these speakers have not been played MUCH over the past 13 years, I suspect that the bulb may be fused in the back of the Crossover Circuit board.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...r-s-system-mystery-repair.405114/post-7498931