Lol, you just mount like you would in a door. Best to use a 3/4 panel to deaden the area then mount the driver if you can. In the case of mine I built an angled panel with bracing, it was somewhat complicated but required to fit four 12s. You have to somewhat seal the panel off; front to rear of speaker should be two separate places. If the driver fits in the space I often make a 3/4 panel then seal it to the car with foam/weatherstrip/window tape/etc and mount the driver to it...such as on a rear deck. Then plug the other holes in the deck. Better is to make a panel that covers the whole deck, that deadens and seals the deck nicely and often is not that hard to do depending.
I just picked up some 5.25" mids for the doors since the 6.5" mids didn't fit.
I'll put the component set up front in the doors and the 6.5" midbass in the rear deck. Then I'll put a pair of 12" comps in the trunk up against the rear seat, sealed off from the 6.5" free air speakers.
I'm pretty sure the 5.25" mids can play easily down to 100Hz and the 6.5" midbass down to 60Hz or so. The 12" comps will then play 60Hz and below.
Does this sound like a good starting point?
I'll put the component set up front in the doors and the 6.5" midbass in the rear deck. Then I'll put a pair of 12" comps in the trunk up against the rear seat, sealed off from the 6.5" free air speakers.
I'm pretty sure the 5.25" mids can play easily down to 100Hz and the 6.5" midbass down to 60Hz or so. The 12" comps will then play 60Hz and below.
Does this sound like a good starting point?
That should work, in fact the rear deck may help the 6.5 put out more bass. I would recommend when you do the doors to deaden/seal/put mdf baffle or ring in if you can. The more midbass you can get out of those the better it will sound because they are forward...even if you run the rears if they are strong enough they will keep the stage forward for you.
i was reading flyin11' s post where jol50 mentioned he did an install with subs in the corners and it reminded me of my old mitsubishi lancer.
in that car i had 2 boxes on each side of the trunk pointing inwards towards each other all the way to the back, with about 16" of space in between...that was one of the best sounding setups i had, blended in almost perfectly with the mids.
they were sealed boxes, each 12" sub had a 250 hcca on it.
and it sounded good...if you could do that ...thats what id do....the boxes are all the way in the back, so the waves wont be bouncing around everywhere....theyd just go forward
it wont be the loudest (-15%), but the blending of the bass and mids was almost euphoric. 😀
in that car i had 2 boxes on each side of the trunk pointing inwards towards each other all the way to the back, with about 16" of space in between...that was one of the best sounding setups i had, blended in almost perfectly with the mids.
they were sealed boxes, each 12" sub had a 250 hcca on it.
and it sounded good...if you could do that ...thats what id do....the boxes are all the way in the back, so the waves wont be bouncing around everywhere....theyd just go forward
it wont be the loudest (-15%), but the blending of the bass and mids was almost euphoric. 😀
Well, it seems like I was a little too late on the mids. I may have to scrounge another pair up somewhere else. Since I have the r6 kicker resolution set, I just need the 5.25" mids and run the same passive crossover.
I have seen a few installs where the subs are way in the back the way you describe Clipped. I have never heard a setup like that though.
We'll see, I still have to get some raammat on order for the entire car before I begin.
I have seen a few installs where the subs are way in the back the way you describe Clipped. I have never heard a setup like that though.
We'll see, I still have to get some raammat on order for the entire car before I begin.
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