Will do!
I'm quite impressed with how they sound. They're much bigger then my AVI Neutron 3's maybe that's why.
It might just be push on connectors. Anyway, there's lot of soldering tutorials out there!
ok photos of mid and tweeter attached. They are soldered and one of the joins broke on the mid when I pulled it out.
Mid is a SEAS 10 F-LG "midrange tweeter" I think - I looked up a SEAS data sheet.
Tweeter is a 5 TV-HF
Mid is a SEAS 10 F-LG "midrange tweeter" I think - I looked up a SEAS data sheet.
Tweeter is a 5 TV-HF
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Guess you'll need to learn to solder afer all!
The mid is said to have a 'textile' surround. Now that you can inspect the surround both front and rear, can you comment on its condition? Could the paper cone be re-attached by gluing?
"Paper cone midrange Seas 10F-LG 100mm, textile surround, diecast basket, acoustic chamber"
The mid is said to have a 'textile' surround. Now that you can inspect the surround both front and rear, can you comment on its condition? Could the paper cone be re-attached by gluing?
"Paper cone midrange Seas 10F-LG 100mm, textile surround, diecast basket, acoustic chamber"
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Any tips on soldering? The reason the original solder joints broke is because the wires are only just long enough to reach the driver. Which makes re-soldering very awkward indeed.
The mids sourroundings are covered with sticky stuff. All kinds of dust and stuff will stick to them. Like the 8" "blackcone" 21 tv-gw and mostly all alnico Seas from that era.
I have one mid in very good condition and a few tweeters if interested?
I have one mid in very good condition and a few tweeters if interested?
There's lots of soldering tutorials out there. How to wire new speakers the easy way - YouTube
The too short wires can be extended by using terminal strip if you're not confident about splicing on an extra length. Working with Wire - learn.sparkfun.com
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Hi, I might be interested in the mid. Would there be any benefit in changing the tweeters?
Your amplifier may be damaged if the midrange is not connected to the crossover.
It depends on the crossover design, but I wouldn't risk it.
It depends on the crossover design, but I wouldn't risk it.
Hmm, finally soldered the detached midrange driver back on and fired up the speakers, only to find the bass driver isnt working now! Unscrewed it to check the wiring and it's still attached at both ends, but the magnets look a bit odd, that have this white stuff on them and look a bit rusty too.
I need to get photo of this uploaded but I've forgotten how to on this forum.
I need to get photo of this uploaded but I've forgotten how to on this forum.
White powder on driver magnets is common and won't be the cause of the bass driver not working.
You will have to disconnect the two wires from the bass driver to test it.
Do you have a multimeter to measure the resistance across the driver terminals?
If not, connect a 9V battery momentarily across the bass driver terminals. If the voice coil is not broken then the driver's cone should move in or out.
This is how you attach images:
How to attach images to your posts.
You will have to disconnect the two wires from the bass driver to test it.
Do you have a multimeter to measure the resistance across the driver terminals?
If not, connect a 9V battery momentarily across the bass driver terminals. If the voice coil is not broken then the driver's cone should move in or out.
This is how you attach images:
How to attach images to your posts.
If the bass driver passes the battery test, then try replacing the wires between it and the crossover.
The crossover itself may warrant a closer look. Can you post larger and sharper images of it? You may have to remove the crossover from the enclosure, but first make a careful note/sketch of which connection goes where.
Simply wipe the oxidised coating off the steel plates using isopropyl alcohol (or vodka!).
And, again, do you have a multimeter?
The crossover itself may warrant a closer look. Can you post larger and sharper images of it? You may have to remove the crossover from the enclosure, but first make a careful note/sketch of which connection goes where.
Simply wipe the oxidised coating off the steel plates using isopropyl alcohol (or vodka!).
And, again, do you have a multimeter?
I do have a multimeter. Not used to using one, though.
Do you think it's worth replacing the insulation inside the cabinets?
Do you think it's worth replacing the insulation inside the cabinets?
