I'm so happy with the performance of 125ASX2 since I got it. Planning to make a amp for my home theater but finding a unique enclosure is not a easy task. There're too many aluminum enclosures out there.
Yesterday when I shopping with my wife I found this nice wood art case. The size is just right for fit in the module. I bought it without hesitate despite of the damn high price. I'm going to show you how I make it into an amp in this thread. I had never made a enclosure like this so please advise if there's any.
Yesterday when I shopping with my wife I found this nice wood art case. The size is just right for fit in the module. I bought it without hesitate despite of the damn high price. I'm going to show you how I make it into an amp in this thread. I had never made a enclosure like this so please advise if there's any.
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Eventhough its class d, there wiil be some heat - so you need to drill som holes. Electronics and wood might not be a good combination. You should seal the inside with metal, or some other non-flamable material. This will also help reduce incoming noise. Every class d I have owned is more or less critical to incoming noise.
Hi Kjeldsen, thanks for the tips. I agree wood won't have the EMI performance as metal. But this can be solved by paste a copper sheet inside.
I don't think wood is not a good combination of electronics. Look at the photo, it's one of my most favorite collection, a Grundig 3088 tube AM-FM radio receiver in 1950s. It has 8 valve tubes as I remember, the power consumption is at least 10 times higher than 125ASX2 module. The case are all made of wood! You can find a lot of electronics stuffs in those days (or even today) has a wood enclosure or chases (how about active sound box?)
The first problem I need to solve is where shold the connectors positted? There're beautiful hand made art sculptures on 5 sides of the box, It's not a good idea to damage them. The only choice is the bottom side. I have to find a good solution to connect the cables through the bottom of the box.
I don't think wood is not a good combination of electronics. Look at the photo, it's one of my most favorite collection, a Grundig 3088 tube AM-FM radio receiver in 1950s. It has 8 valve tubes as I remember, the power consumption is at least 10 times higher than 125ASX2 module. The case are all made of wood! You can find a lot of electronics stuffs in those days (or even today) has a wood enclosure or chases (how about active sound box?)
The first problem I need to solve is where shold the connectors positted? There're beautiful hand made art sculptures on 5 sides of the box, It's not a good idea to damage them. The only choice is the bottom side. I have to find a good solution to connect the cables through the bottom of the box.
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Wood will work, but the electronic should be placed on metalsheets, just as you can also see on your own picture. It's pure wood I'm against. The electronic in active sound boxes also have metal enclosures of some kind (full metal or perforated)
Yes I agree. Of course I won't mount the board on wood directly. Actually there's no way to doing that way, at least several brass braces are needed.
As I said the box will be pasted with copper sheet all around inside to reduce noise. A metal chassis will be placed between the module and the bottom of the box.
As I said the box will be pasted with copper sheet all around inside to reduce noise. A metal chassis will be placed between the module and the bottom of the box.
Good thing. I mentioned it, because I have seen wood enclosure (wine boxes and other boxes) with class d modules and nothing else but thin flamable wood.
Connectors on the bottom wouldn't work well for RCA connections, unless you recessed them very deeply into the box. Or used very tall feet.
Holes in the bottom plus holes in the back should allow air circulation for cooling. Otherwise the box becomes an oven.
Holes in the bottom plus holes in the back should allow air circulation for cooling. Otherwise the box becomes an oven.
But there's beautiful sculptures at the back side. I don't think anybody will like to damage it. There are 4 legs on each corner of the bottom, there's abut 15mm gap betweem the bottom plate and desktop. I think the RCA could be mounted horizontally. Maybe a 3.5mm headphone jack is another option?
Why don't tou just skip the connectors and solder the wires directly to the board? A little fan on 5 volt could help the heating problem, and will be unaudible.
I don't think solder wires to the board is a good idea. I don't want it to be a nice box with a lot of ugly cables. I just want it to be a clean wood art case. I found there's plenty of room for horizontal mount DIN connectors
Almost Done!
I made a PCB as back plane of 125ASX2. Then cut a square hole at the bottom of the box. The cables are connected through the DIN connectors at the bottom.
Drilled 2 small 8mm hole in the front panel of the case, left is power switch, right is voice potentiometer.
I made a PCB as back plane of 125ASX2. Then cut a square hole at the bottom of the box. The cables are connected through the DIN connectors at the bottom.
Drilled 2 small 8mm hole in the front panel of the case, left is power switch, right is voice potentiometer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks great. Well this is my first post 🙂
My 2 125ASX2 boards are on there way. Will be making a single enclosure but running them in mono(BTL mode).
My 2 125ASX2 boards are on there way. Will be making a single enclosure but running them in mono(BTL mode).
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