Fostex DIY Speakers....

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Bryan

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Joined 2003
#1
Hi Guys,

So, I'm thinking I want to build some speakers to match my DIY 845's. I asked over at AA, and recieved a little feedback. I am now bringing the conversation over here!

What is the general opinion about the Fostex FE series, particularly the FE-208-EZ. I see at madisound's website, they have plans for the cabinets. Has anyone tried these? I would probably pair it with a T90A tweeter, as suggested.

Now, I have never built speakers, but I have a few friends that have full shops and are very skilled with cabinet making. I am good with my hands as well. Is this a good starting point?

After I get some feedback, I'll start with more specific questions about the project.

Thanks Guys,

Bryan
 
#2
I have built the Fostex recommended backhorn with the FE108EZ. I am very happy with it and would certainly recommend it to anyone. I presume the FE208EZ will provide a somewhat deeper bass, due to its larger diameter, but at the expense of the high. But that is where the supertweeter comes in.

I found the construction of the cabinets straightforward, but not for the novice. I used a circular saw (with ruler) and a 'hole' saw for the driver opening.
 
#3
A well made Fostex system can be a joy to listen to. Since you have friends with tools I'd recommend picking up a Jasper circle jig to attach to a plunge router for making holes and recessing the driver. It works great. Single driver systems are a great place to start into the world of DIY speakers and the Sigma's are highly regarded.
 
#4
I don't have experience with any of the Fostex drivers, but I'm about to make something with a Fostex FE206E. I'm going to be putting one of those in an open baffle along with an Eminence Kilomax 18. Digital XO around 300 Hz. Eventually, I plan to make a few gain clones to power the mid/highs. I've read a bit suggesting that the FE206E is really great, especially for the money. I'm sold on the open baffle concept, but with a qts of .18 or so, the Fostex isn't going to do much of anything for bass, hence the additional woofer. The kilomax 18 has a Qts of .56 and decent excursion capabilities for a pro driver, which I'm thinking should make it a decent candidate for open baffle work.

I did a few searches both here and over at AA (high efficiency area) and there was a fair amount of interesting stuff.

- Robert
 
#5
If you click as instructed , you will see the Basszillas that I am making (and remaking 😉 )

they are probably not what you were envisioning, but they are one good way to use them.

The 208's are clearly very good sounding, but you have to address the rsonance peak starting around 3500 hz . Maybe the various notch filters on the web for the old 208 will work here. Dick Olsher, the speaker designer uses another aproach.

Also they get beamy at higher frequencies - the treble is dispersed very narrowly. A tweeter is needed IMHO, the AC looked good for the purpose to me and Dick is now using it too.

The 208's handle are now paired with an Eminence 15" and Aurum Cantus ribbon.

The previous version I made sounded so good I decided to make it better with some changes......but I kept the FE208eSigma
 
#6
OK,

So it seems as though I am heading in a good direction. Now for some more specific questions...

What are the best type of cabinets to build, besides the ones from fostex, and where does one get plans?

What types of materials are best to use for the cabinets? Is MDF the logical choice, or some sort of ply? I wuold probably vaneer them when they are done, with some fabcy wood.

Any other suggestions, concerns?

How is the sound quality of the T90 tweet?

Thanks,

Bryan
 
#7
The best? Well.....
 

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#13
Hey Guys,

Thanks for the "input" up through now.

Basically, what I want is a speaker that will cover the whole frequency range smoothly....Duh.

One goal is ACCURACY, in that I want something that will reproduce details, even the smallest, clearly.

Another goal is Dynamics, both micro and macro.

I want a tuneful bottom end, with some power, but I focus more on accuracy and tonality vs. chest slamming power.

I like the full range drivers, and have heard many good things with respect to their ability to achieve the above goals. I also like to think of each project as a learning experience, and I value this aspect of the exercise.

I am open to other suggestions, cabinet topologies, etc if they will better achieve the above goals.

So, with all the above info, am I heading in the right direction???

Thanks,

Bryan
 
#14
So, with all the above info, am I heading in the right direction???
Click to expand...

Absolutely! You don't have to go for a horn on your first build either. I very much enjoy my little Voigt pipes. I've recently begun to miss the lower octave so I've added a Shiva TL to the mix. The best part though is the imaging and accuracy of the mids when you can hear the little nuances of the singers and instruments.
 
#18
Hey Guys,

So, I think I like the horn-loaded designs, as I do appreciate the lower octave.

Are there any other really good designs, or should I just stick with the Fostex published design.

Also, what material is best to use for the cabinets?

Thanks,

Bryan
 
#19
Plywoods are probably the best. Some prefer solid wood but there are potential problems with bending and cupping of solid wood. If you can afford it go for a high quality ply such as baltic birch or appleply. There are other plys that may work ok as long as you can be sure there are no air gaps between the plys. A plywood with a nice veneer saves you a lot of finishing work. Sometimes all you need is a clear coat or tung oil. If you want to hide the ply ends you'll need to use a matching veneer band or solid wood corners. Following that you could use MDF. The downside is MDF dust is just plain nasty and finishing means applying a veneer or sealing and painting. The upside is that it's affordable and easy to work with.
 
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