Hello,
I'm looking to get some opinions on the build of the Fostex recommended box.
How difficult is this to build.
Is there a recommended sequence for putting it together.
How much plywood is required to build the pair.
Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated. 🙂
Frank
I'm looking to get some opinions on the build of the Fostex recommended box.
How difficult is this to build.
Is there a recommended sequence for putting it together.
How much plywood is required to build the pair.
Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated. 🙂
Frank
Hi Frank,
Is the enclosure a BLH or BR? I can only find a Nagaoka based design with the Fostex 168S and supertweet on the Single Driver site. This looks like a simple ported box.
Jeff
Is the enclosure a BLH or BR? I can only find a Nagaoka based design with the Fostex 168S and supertweet on the Single Driver site. This looks like a simple ported box.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
The recommended Fostex (Nagaoka) box is a BLH, plans can be viewed at http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=116143.21992&pid=2074
Regards, Frank
The recommended Fostex (Nagaoka) box is a BLH, plans can be viewed at http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=116143.21992&pid=2074
Regards, Frank
It's not really a Nagaoka cabinet, as he died a couple of years ago. But it's designed on similar principles -upsized variant of the D-37 / 57 really. Technically they're not horns either, but that's getting pedantic -it's the end result that's important. I gather general performance is supposed to be pretty good although a pain to tweak. One of these days I'll get around to modelling them properly.
You can figure out the amount of plywood needed from the plans.
Their layout looks like 4X8' sheets. Don't forget you can't get Baltic Birch in this size, only 5X5".
My first question would be, have you read any reviews of this build as to how they sound? There may be other designs out there that are easier to build and sound better. Just a thought as I'm unqualified to give an opinion regarding this design.
I thinks it would be a bit much for a beginner BTW.
Jeff
Their layout looks like 4X8' sheets. Don't forget you can't get Baltic Birch in this size, only 5X5".
My first question would be, have you read any reviews of this build as to how they sound? There may be other designs out there that are easier to build and sound better. Just a thought as I'm unqualified to give an opinion regarding this design.
I thinks it would be a bit much for a beginner BTW.
Jeff
The larger driver speakers usually use 21mm ply which I don't know if you can find but I certainly can't in my neck of the woods.
I built similar cabs and had to laminate 2 sheets of ply together.
They are all straight cuts so are easy but there are usually several dozen pieces to cut.
An accurate TS would be easy.
I built similar cabs and had to laminate 2 sheets of ply together.
They are all straight cuts so are easy but there are usually several dozen pieces to cut.
An accurate TS would be easy.
From the looks of it, this design takes *4* sheets of plywood per speaker, that is, *8* sheets for a pair of speakers. I don't know how much a sheet of plywood weighs, and, you will have a bunch of leftovers, but, this looks to be a HEAVY speaker!
Tom.
Tom.
I just finished the recommended horns this weekend. It took me about 5 4x8 sheets of plywood and MDF (I used some leftover stuff). Having built 4 previous sets of speakers, some with crossovers, some without, I would say that the cabinets can be difficult if you have not built similar designs. The one important thing I learned was measure twice, think about cutting, measure a few more times and then cut. 1mm of drift will show up if you don't be careful. As far as assembly goes, I kind of winged it. I started from the bottom and went up. I would probably not do it the same way if I were to repeat the process.
Hey all,
I was over in Seattle, at Compton's (big commercial lumber yard) last winter, and they said they could get 4x8 baltic birch (actually either baltic, Finnish, or Russian birch, depending on supply). So it is available if you ask around.
Doug
I was over in Seattle, at Compton's (big commercial lumber yard) last winter, and they said they could get 4x8 baltic birch (actually either baltic, Finnish, or Russian birch, depending on supply). So it is available if you ask around.
Doug
I used 5, 5'X5' sheets of 18mm baltic birch. These were the 2nd pair of Fostex BLH`s I`ve built and it`s not that hard if you measure accurately, cut square and have lots of clamps. Do it, you `ll be a better speaker builder when you`re done. Plus you will have some wonderful sounding speakers, after you stuff them properly and give them plenty of break in.
Thanks to everyone for all there suggestions.
No Xo, that was 5 sheets per speaker, correct.
Regards, Frank
No Xo, that was 5 sheets per speaker, correct.
Regards, Frank
Frank, if I remember correctly, I bought 7 5'X5' sheets and was surprised that I had 2 left over. When I purchased the wood, the dealer gave me 10% off if I got 5 or more sheets and I took 7 and asked if I would get the discount if i needed a couple more. I 95% sure I used 5, maybe 6 and this was for the pair. I spent some time arranging the cut pattern, except for the double thick side panels everything else is 300MM wide. I had help handling the 5x5 sheets on my table saw, but after the large pieces were cut the rest was pretty easy.
Hi Frank,
No xo is correct. You will need 5 sheets of 18mm BB for 2 boxes.
By adding all the sheet sizes from the parts list you get 4.881m^2.
One sheet of BB is 2.323m^2, so you will need just over 2 sheets per box. With careful layout you might even have material left over. 😀
Jeff
No xo is correct. You will need 5 sheets of 18mm BB for 2 boxes.
By adding all the sheet sizes from the parts list you get 4.881m^2.
One sheet of BB is 2.323m^2, so you will need just over 2 sheets per box. With careful layout you might even have material left over. 😀
Jeff
my build
I used 6-7 sheets baltic birch 18mm approximately.
I used the equipment at cain and cain to make the cuts and glue them together. my kitchen workshop is a little small for such an undertaking.
I went the whole way with these things. brass rings, t90aex, nice wood. assembly went well I started from the top (baffle), built the outer dimension and built the horn from top to bottom diagonally more or less.
I feel that these were worth the tweeters and rings, for my amplification and taste.
but if you just buy a pair of drivers and mount then in the cabinets, you should come out at about 800 dollars in parts. these things are a steal for that.
the only comparable driver to me is the fe208es or ss. and those have their own set of problems. the 208es needs a tweeter from 10 k up, the 208ss has the old big driver shout from being non radial papermaking.
the 206es-r is very pleasing to listen to and ungodly detailed. it has a very involving sound. they are quite hard to ignore. they kinda make alot of the other speakers I hear sound dull and recessed (to a greater degree than most fostex drivers).
funny enough, I build a small bass reflex pair of fe103e for a freind. I was quite surprised at the tonal similarities between the 206esr and fe103 at all ranges above 200hz. I personally love the tone and overall balanced feeling of the fe103e (it is perhaps my favourite driver all around, and I have alot to choose from). it is very frustrating to get bass from though. and of course it is not the most refined driver around. i dunno, I just like them.
when deciding whether or not to build back loaded horns of great complexity like these for a pair of drivers, I tend to simply mount the driver in a sealed cabinet for a few months and listen to them every now and then. if I feel that the tone and speed of the driver are good enough, then I take the plunge. it is a big deal to build boxes like this. they eventually become to heavy to lift safely, they are easy to ding. easy to get off square.
not to discourage anyone though. it is a very worthwhile undertaking and even a little mistake here or there will not adversely affect the end result sonically.
I am still unable to post pictures. the file size comes back too big. It is not too big. I have no idea what is going on.
oh well.
next on my list?
swans for fe108esII and fe166es-r.
good luck.
I used 6-7 sheets baltic birch 18mm approximately.
I used the equipment at cain and cain to make the cuts and glue them together. my kitchen workshop is a little small for such an undertaking.
I went the whole way with these things. brass rings, t90aex, nice wood. assembly went well I started from the top (baffle), built the outer dimension and built the horn from top to bottom diagonally more or less.
I feel that these were worth the tweeters and rings, for my amplification and taste.
but if you just buy a pair of drivers and mount then in the cabinets, you should come out at about 800 dollars in parts. these things are a steal for that.
the only comparable driver to me is the fe208es or ss. and those have their own set of problems. the 208es needs a tweeter from 10 k up, the 208ss has the old big driver shout from being non radial papermaking.
the 206es-r is very pleasing to listen to and ungodly detailed. it has a very involving sound. they are quite hard to ignore. they kinda make alot of the other speakers I hear sound dull and recessed (to a greater degree than most fostex drivers).
funny enough, I build a small bass reflex pair of fe103e for a freind. I was quite surprised at the tonal similarities between the 206esr and fe103 at all ranges above 200hz. I personally love the tone and overall balanced feeling of the fe103e (it is perhaps my favourite driver all around, and I have alot to choose from). it is very frustrating to get bass from though. and of course it is not the most refined driver around. i dunno, I just like them.
when deciding whether or not to build back loaded horns of great complexity like these for a pair of drivers, I tend to simply mount the driver in a sealed cabinet for a few months and listen to them every now and then. if I feel that the tone and speed of the driver are good enough, then I take the plunge. it is a big deal to build boxes like this. they eventually become to heavy to lift safely, they are easy to ding. easy to get off square.
not to discourage anyone though. it is a very worthwhile undertaking and even a little mistake here or there will not adversely affect the end result sonically.
I am still unable to post pictures. the file size comes back too big. It is not too big. I have no idea what is going on.
oh well.
next on my list?
swans for fe108esII and fe166es-r.
good luck.
Bluemenco, what are the sonic advantages of the brass rings. Didi you listen with and with out these mounted. I added the T90AEX and capped it with a .33mfd Fostex cap, no attenuator and these sound very good as they are. Also I`m sure I used only 5, 5X5 18mm BB sheets and had some left over, did you double the thickness on the top panel? And I cut these in my basement workshop on an old Craftsman table saw, probably not up to par with Terry Cain`s shop...well not even close. I am interested in the brass rings but they are expensive, and the cabinets are heavy. One more, did you use spikes on the bottom? I don`t want to have the main driver any higher because it`s center is about ear level and I still expiriment with toe in and room placement. If you want to see a picture of mine, a friend posted a couple on a thread titled Fostex HP reflectors under the name noxonewbie, there are 2 or 3 shots without the T90AEX`s. I sure would like to see yours,let me know when you have pics. Overall, I feel these are the most pleasing speakers I`ve owned, and there has been alot of them.
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