I am new to speaker diy, though I have made a few amps/preamps. My woodworking is so-so, mostly bigger stuff like decks and additions. Anyway, for my first speakers, I decided to try some Fonkens with the Fostex FE127E, recommended here. This forum has been very helpful. Thanks, already.
In gathering the wood for the port spacers, I found that the only 3/8" stock I have is 3/8"x3/8" square dowels. My orignial thought was to glue three together and then trim off the excess to make 3/8" x 1-1/32" stock called for in the plans. Four would be needed per side.
But then I realized that 11 x 3/8 = 4-1/8 = 4 x 1-1/32.
Since the ports in the fonken design are supposed to have four 3/8"x1-1/32" strips (per side), I thought I could use 11 of my 3/8"x3/8" dowels. The area is the same meaning that the port open area should be the same. My question is basically one of of port shape or size. Will it adversely affect the port function if I were to have ten smaller ports on each side, vs the three larger ones called for in the original plans, provided that the overall port volume is the same? To avoid trimming the dowels down, I also thought that I could glue three together each for three of the four strips, and glue only two together for the fourth (does that make sense?) I am obsessing over nothing. Thanks, for any insight! --T
In gathering the wood for the port spacers, I found that the only 3/8" stock I have is 3/8"x3/8" square dowels. My orignial thought was to glue three together and then trim off the excess to make 3/8" x 1-1/32" stock called for in the plans. Four would be needed per side.
But then I realized that 11 x 3/8 = 4-1/8 = 4 x 1-1/32.
Since the ports in the fonken design are supposed to have four 3/8"x1-1/32" strips (per side), I thought I could use 11 of my 3/8"x3/8" dowels. The area is the same meaning that the port open area should be the same. My question is basically one of of port shape or size. Will it adversely affect the port function if I were to have ten smaller ports on each side, vs the three larger ones called for in the original plans, provided that the overall port volume is the same? To avoid trimming the dowels down, I also thought that I could glue three together each for three of the four strips, and glue only two together for the fourth (does that make sense?) I am obsessing over nothing. Thanks, for any insight! --T
I would stick to the original design as closely as possible, which means gluing the 3/8" strips together and then trimming to size. What is the 3/8 dowel material if you don't mind me asking?
Jeff
Jeff
The dowel material is poplar.
Thanks for the input. Not the answer that I was hoping for, but I guess air moves through more, smaller holes with more restriction than through fewer, larger ones. I just wasn't sure whether it would be significant in a design like this one. Since this is my first set of boxes, I should probably stick to the plan. Thanks, again, -T
Thanks for the input. Not the answer that I was hoping for, but I guess air moves through more, smaller holes with more restriction than through fewer, larger ones. I just wasn't sure whether it would be significant in a design like this one. Since this is my first set of boxes, I should probably stick to the plan. Thanks, again, -T
I would go with your original idea with the dowels. I personally don't think you'll see much difference. The bass in these speakers is not that great. I have a subwoofer to supplement mine; and they sound very good in that configuration.
don't be afraid to experiment.
don't be afraid to experiment.
T,
MCH may be right about the vent area. In a speaker of this size, vent noise may not be an issue. The Onken spreadsheet specifies 6 or 8 equal vents, but is for a much larger driver in the original designs.
You could download the excel Onken Calculator and play around with the vent number and size:
http://melhuish.org/audio/software.html
Hope this helps,
Jeff
MCH may be right about the vent area. In a speaker of this size, vent noise may not be an issue. The Onken spreadsheet specifies 6 or 8 equal vents, but is for a much larger driver in the original designs.
You could download the excel Onken Calculator and play around with the vent number and size:
http://melhuish.org/audio/software.html
Hope this helps,
Jeff
Thanks, MCH. I will check it out. I am out of town right now and only have sporadic access to the web, but will look in to this when I get back. Thanks again, --T
- Status
- Not open for further replies.