fonken fe127 question: prime vs GR

[then_dude]

Hello everybody,

it's bin a while since i'm have been on the forum. i moved appartment,
but anyway. here is the dilemma.

i asked dave (planet10) what to build: in my previous flat i was short of space and i needed two small speakers to put next to my pc screen. he adviced me the fonken GR, i have the drivers, and also the wood has been cut. But now i moved i have much more space. i can easily put a fonkenprime next to my pc screen or anywhere else.

i have read that the prime does the disepearing act better, but will this also be true when they are near field (80cm from my ears, and at 60 cm spereated). If the prime is still the better version, i will cut some extra wood, and build them both. (the wood + cutting is 30 euro, not really a money issue)

thanks people.
greetz

ps: within a week i will treat my coral 8 with aceton and cloth softner to loose it up a bit. i'll report back

bye bye

 

[then_dude]

a little question for planet10

i'm living in europe and no wood is measuerd by inches,
so the problem i face is: the spacers in a fonkenprime have to be 26.4mm wide and 9.5mm depth. the only wood i can get is 9 or 10mm depth: is this a problem ? or do i have to take 10mm and recalculate the ports so that it becomes 29.5mm ? or does the whole concept dies on this ? or will the glueup add another 0.5mm to the 9mm wood ?

thanks again dave

 

[chrisb]

a little question for planet10

i'm living in europe and no wood is measuerd by inches,
so the problem i face is: the spacers in a fonkenprime have to be 26.4mm wide and 9.5mm depth. the only wood i can get is 9 or 10mm depth: is this a problem ? or do i have to take 10mm and recalculate the ports so that it becomes 29.5mm ? or does the whole concept dies on this ? or will the glueup add another 0.5mm to the 9mm wood ?

thanks again dave

Let me pipe in a bit - (Dave may have further thoughts)

The 9.5mm thickness for the port spacers came from the desire to use a dissimilar material in the construction of the sandwich that forms the outside wall assembly of this enclosure. In our case 3/8" MDF (actually 9.525mm) was the closest material on hand - you could certainly machine a medium hardness solid wood such as poplar, fir etc to this thickness.


Among the interesting aspects of designing enclosures that we find are used by DIYers around the globe are the varied availability / costs of different material and their locally available sizes ( i.e. both thickness and sheet sizes).

Add to that opinions on assembly techniques bracing, damping, etc., and even fabrication with solid woods, and there's a whole subset of things over which discussions can be made.

 

[planet10]

i'm living in europe and no wood is measuerd by inches,
so the problem i face is: the spacers in a fonkenprime have to be 26.4mm wide and 9.5mm depth. the only wood i can get is 9 or 10mm depth: is this a problem ? or do i have to take 10mm and recalculate the ports so that it becomes 29.5mm ? or does the whole concept dies on this ? or will the glueup add another 0.5mm to the 9mm wood ?

When i design i use a mix of imperial & metric, Chris builds them in metric, so i usually try to round off to the closest mm. As Chris points out, the original spacer height was choosen to fit the available 3/8" MDF. It has been my intention to recalulate the ports for 9mm (it is fairly easy, one just needs to shrink the height of the spacers so that each slot port has the same area), the latest dMar-Ken boxes were designed from the start for 9mm.

The big champher & the narrow effective baffle are what give the FonkenPrime its extra ability to disappear. I would expect that being closer would make this even more so.

dave

 

[then_dude]

thanks chris and dave,

that's great news, i'm gonna build it for 9mm, and it has to be 29.2mm wide, then the slots are the same area.

i'm gonna go for the prime

thanks people