Are you looking at the flat wall mount MLTL or the bookshelf one? I would also highly recommend the 0.4x Karlsonator that uses a single Vifa. Look in Nautaloss thread for the sub I built with dual 6.5 in high Qts drivers.
The bookshelf one, I believe. The version that someone posted plans for, with a front facing port.
Also, while the Karlsonator seems pretty interesting, it seems a bit more complex than I'm looking to do right now. That might be my next foam core project though!
That Nautaloss subwoofer is crazy! Might just be something I'll have to look into down the line. It seems pretty intimidating right now! 😱
Also, while the Karlsonator seems pretty interesting, it seems a bit more complex than I'm looking to do right now. That might be my next foam core project though!
That Nautaloss subwoofer is crazy! Might just be something I'll have to look into down the line. It seems pretty intimidating right now! 😱
The mini 0.4x Karlsonator is actually very easy if you do it the single piece method where the entire top back bottom front and divider walls is one long continuous piece with creased bends and two sidewalls. I should post a detailed step by step howto.
Anyhow, the bookshelf one you are looking at is very easy to make. You might want to add a baffle step compensation (BSC) circuit to balance the highs with the bass. You will need a 18 gauge 1 mH inductor and a 10 ohm 10 watt power resistor. Wire those in parallel and put between amp and positive lead of driver.
Anyhow, the bookshelf one you are looking at is very easy to make. You might want to add a baffle step compensation (BSC) circuit to balance the highs with the bass. You will need a 18 gauge 1 mH inductor and a 10 ohm 10 watt power resistor. Wire those in parallel and put between amp and positive lead of driver.
OK I'll think about adding th BSC down the line. I wanna hear how the driver sounds with no type of crossover circuitry first.
So I went to my local dollar tree yesterday and the foam core they have is only like 1/8th of an inch thick. Is that the stuff that most people are using?
So I went to my local dollar tree yesterday and the foam core they have is only like 1/8th of an inch thick. Is that the stuff that most people are using?
Here's my entry! It's a quarter wave transmission line with a small 2.5" Dayton full range driver. I have not inserted a baffle step correction circuit yet, but will be putting one together soon. It's not the bees knees, but it's pretty good! Fun little experiment.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Baco99,
Neat project you have there! Can you give us more details like driver model, dimensions and port size? How did you arrive at the design?
🙂
Neat project you have there! Can you give us more details like driver model, dimensions and port size? How did you arrive at the design?
🙂
Thanks! It's bee interesting. My first foam core project and my first full range project and my first TL project.
Here's a link to the driver I used.
Dayton Audio RS75-4 3" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
Someone at Audiokarma helped with the design. Here's a pic of the box before adding the fill.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Baco99,
I can't see your photo of the internals. The Dayton RS75-4 is a nice driver - good choice. Can you tell us the width, height, depth, and vent height?
Thanks,
X
I can't see your photo of the internals. The Dayton RS75-4 is a nice driver - good choice. Can you tell us the width, height, depth, and vent height?
Thanks,
X
Sorry the image keeps dropping off.
Here are the dimensions.
Cut Sheet based on 3/16"x20"x30" foam board from a Dollar Store.
4@ 4 5/8" x 27" Front (Doubled)
4@ 4 5/8" x 28" Back (Doubled)
2@ 4 5/8" x 21" Throat (Middle partition)
4@ 28" x 10" Sides
4@ 5" x 10" Top & Bottom
cutting out the parts. No sawdust!
Thanks Baco99 - very nice. How do you like the sound and can you get us a sample sound clip?
X
X
Amazing Masters of Aerial Foam Core!
I knew you could make RC planes but never realized they looked this good and work this well. I should have realized, similar to speakers, the planes are clean and fast to build from scratch. Of course, hot melt glue is instrumental to this. What is cool is seeing all the different construction techniques to get curves, folds, joints, spars, ribs, bracing, etc. Plans are free...
Spitfire Build:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gutkh30I-eM
Go to 4:15 to see it fly, and 9:50 to see acrobatic manuvers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A_HJXmwLQ4
Main channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9zTuyWffK9ckEz1216noAw
I knew you could make RC planes but never realized they looked this good and work this well. I should have realized, similar to speakers, the planes are clean and fast to build from scratch. Of course, hot melt glue is instrumental to this. What is cool is seeing all the different construction techniques to get curves, folds, joints, spars, ribs, bracing, etc. Plans are free...
Spitfire Build:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gutkh30I-eM
Go to 4:15 to see it fly, and 9:50 to see acrobatic manuvers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A_HJXmwLQ4
Main channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9zTuyWffK9ckEz1216noAw
I wouldn't know the first thing about getting a sound clip. Without the baffle step circuit, the bass falls steeply after about 250 Hz or so. Although the software says 95Hz. The high end seems to drop after 14kHz. So, I wouldn't call it a true "full range." I think the unencumbered midrange is really nice to hear. I noticed some artifacts in mixing that I never noticed before and an octave harmony in one song by Daughter that I had also never heard before. Coupled with a subwoofer and a super tweeter, this could be a very competent driver.
The guy who designed this box for me is also working on one with a dual port.
Foam core slot loaded band pass sub
Over in sub forum
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/258433-light-air-slot-loaded-band-pass-sub.html
Over in sub forum
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/258433-light-air-slot-loaded-band-pass-sub.html
Great thread.
Also a fine way to do proof-of-concept, then a mock-up, then take your foam cut pieces to a joinery and have them cut wood to spec.
Also a fine way to do proof-of-concept, then a mock-up, then take your foam cut pieces to a joinery and have them cut wood to spec.
Glue some wood pieces behind the screws for threads to grab. Sometimes I use double layers of thick skinned foam core ( Elmer's brand) and that is enough without wood. I have also used thick cardboard pieces for screws. Drywall screws work well. Some people use thin plywood as driver mounting plate.
It's not like we're mounting 15" drivers with 100oz+ of magnet. 😉
Drywall screws seem to have a deeper thread filet which is indeed good for grabbing into foam-core.
OK I guess I was over thinking it lol I just doubled up the foam core on the inside and used some little screws I had around.
These things sound fantastic! Not a whole lot going on in the lower frequencies, but the mids sound great! I never made a baffle step circuit for it though. What exactly will that do for me? I think I might actually build these into a proper enclosure
Listening to Closing Time by Tom Waits on my freshly restored AR XA via Realistic STA 77. Very glad I decided to try this out!
These things sound fantastic! Not a whole lot going on in the lower frequencies, but the mids sound great! I never made a baffle step circuit for it though. What exactly will that do for me? I think I might actually build these into a proper enclosure
Listening to Closing Time by Tom Waits on my freshly restored AR XA via Realistic STA 77. Very glad I decided to try this out!