If you interested in acoustics and need some advice you can visit http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/index.php
John is nice and well expirienced guy and can really help.
I will think about this one too
http://www.creativesound.ca/
Cheers
Greggo said:
I dream too!
Almost the same dream!points to ponder..
a) 48"x78"x15" deep = 32 cu. ft. however since you are tapering the baffle to 5" lets say 48"x78"x10" = 21.5 cu. ft. lets assume 1/4 of the volume goes in bracing you are still left with 15 cu. ft. that is a big box! Most of that box volume will be devoted to the subwoofer/woofer. You could use 4x12 or 2x15" woofers in this box (an average 12" would use 3 cu.ft and the average 15" about 5).
b) line arays are fine but keep in mind interpolar interference between drivers
c) if you are using a single sub consider a transmission line. against a wall the sub would get some help and it can be then tuned for a flat response.
d) a wide range driver like the JX53 can make this a 3 way. Using a big sub and 2 midbass and the JX53 array. alternately you could consider pro drivers are they are more dynamic.
One advantage of having speakers into the room is that you have some control of the ratio of direct to reflected sound.
I've tried my speakers in from the back wall, as well as near the rear wall ... either way with eq to get it flat and I like them into the room more. They seem to image better that way.
For an in-wall speaker, I'd consider some degree of directivity control important, since the speaker to listener distance will be more. Using an array of those jordans, being small speakers, means wide dispersion and the need for room treatment to try to fix the problem you have created with a lot of reflected sound off the walls. I think a better approach if you want to go that way is a tweeter with a waveguide, then a midrange which will match the polar response at least at the xo point to the tweeter. The space you are considering would easily allow space for a bass horn as part of the false wall.
So a tweeter with waveguide, then say a 10" or 12" high efficiency mid with say a bass horn. If you use enought drivers with sufficient excursion, and the horn is fairly large, then you could probably get down to 20 Hz with not too much eq required.
Another angle: open baffle speakers instead of a false wall. This will get you better room interaction as well, the downside being the cost of getting bass output. You can compromise here by going monopole at some point. In the midrange, OB dipoles can be 6db more efficient than monopoles.
I've tried my speakers in from the back wall, as well as near the rear wall ... either way with eq to get it flat and I like them into the room more. They seem to image better that way.
For an in-wall speaker, I'd consider some degree of directivity control important, since the speaker to listener distance will be more. Using an array of those jordans, being small speakers, means wide dispersion and the need for room treatment to try to fix the problem you have created with a lot of reflected sound off the walls. I think a better approach if you want to go that way is a tweeter with a waveguide, then a midrange which will match the polar response at least at the xo point to the tweeter. The space you are considering would easily allow space for a bass horn as part of the false wall.
So a tweeter with waveguide, then say a 10" or 12" high efficiency mid with say a bass horn. If you use enought drivers with sufficient excursion, and the horn is fairly large, then you could probably get down to 20 Hz with not too much eq required.
Another angle: open baffle speakers instead of a false wall. This will get you better room interaction as well, the downside being the cost of getting bass output. You can compromise here by going monopole at some point. In the midrange, OB dipoles can be 6db more efficient than monopoles.
There's no big mystery about
Here's the topic and calculator clearing that
Enjoy
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=610
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