whats the best way to flush mount drivers? i have a cheap plunge router that i could use and used to use on driver cutouts but i found the dust to be way to much so i moved onto a jig saw.
should i just buy a jasper jig and use both techniques?
also what kind of cutting bit should i use for the tang band 3" driver (to increase air flow on the backside)
should i just buy a jasper jig and use both techniques?
also what kind of cutting bit should i use for the tang band 3" driver (to increase air flow on the backside)
I use the jasper jig with a ryobi plunge router. I put on goggles and a mask and held my breath. With the jig, the holes and rabbets are so perfect and quick it was worth the head rush.
I bought a 45 degree bit and fiddled with the depth until it looked right. I set the depth so that it cut about half-way through the 3/4" mdf, minus the rabbet depth.
I bought a 45 degree bit and fiddled with the depth until it looked right. I set the depth so that it cut about half-way through the 3/4" mdf, minus the rabbet depth.
Or you can just get a piece of acrylic and put the correct holes in it--poor man's version of the jasper jig.
I usually use a compass and jigsaw, but if I have to cut lots of holes fast, a router with the acrylic jig is the perfect tool.
Unless your drivers aren't round.
I usually use a compass and jigsaw, but if I have to cut lots of holes fast, a router with the acrylic jig is the perfect tool.
Unless your drivers aren't round.
I get really dusty, but I can't think of a better way to get perfect round and smooth holes then using a router.
I rout out the mounting hole first, then use a rabbiting bit to cut the groove, or cut a rabbit first with a straight cutting bit set to a partial depth and then reset to hole size and cut through (I actually leave 1/16 and then pop it out later with a rotozip or just a hammer and a touch up with file.)
Never been able to get close to as nice with a jigsaw, and if your flush mounting the hole will really show next to the smooth speaker edge.
And I'll probably get cancer, but I don't use a mask or goggles, I just kinda hold my breath..
I also made my own jig from some acrylic, cost me $2, and it's infinitely adjustable.
I rout out the mounting hole first, then use a rabbiting bit to cut the groove, or cut a rabbit first with a straight cutting bit set to a partial depth and then reset to hole size and cut through (I actually leave 1/16 and then pop it out later with a rotozip or just a hammer and a touch up with file.)
Never been able to get close to as nice with a jigsaw, and if your flush mounting the hole will really show next to the smooth speaker edge.
And I'll probably get cancer, but I don't use a mask or goggles, I just kinda hold my breath..
I also made my own jig from some acrylic, cost me $2, and it's infinitely adjustable.
Even an inexpensive paper mask or neckercheif is better than nothing. I use the Jasper jig on a Porter Cable plunge router with a floor fan behind me to blow the dust out. I put the fan on a box to get it up closer to worktable height.
I'm going to die... lol
my speaker boxes weigh 24Kgs each.... just the boxes... I reccon I would have routed off like a milo of MDF when doing the speaker rebates and holes, as well as the port, and rounding over ALL the edges...
my speaker boxes weigh 24Kgs each.... just the boxes... I reccon I would have routed off like a milo of MDF when doing the speaker rebates and holes, as well as the port, and rounding over ALL the edges...
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