Hi,
I'm building the Overnight Sensation MTM, designed by Paul Carmody. I decided to veneer the left, right and top panels in walnut. The front, rear and bottom panels will be spraypainted matt black.
I'm quite happy with the veneering, since it was the first time.
I glued all the panels together except the front, planned to glue that after veneering, since I wanted the sides of the front panel to be visible. That means the front panel is about 1 mm wider than the outside width of the side panels and than it's almost impossible to glue the veneer.
Since panels were a bit rounded after sanding, I have a pretty ugly slit between the front panels and the side panels (glued together now). I attached a picture of how that looks. The problem area has a red line around it. The slit isn't exactly the same width everywhere and a bit of the glue came out, filling the slit.
Before lacquering the veneer and spraypainting the other panels I want to 'fix' the ugly slits.
My idea is to use a router to make a really tiny V-shape slit where the current slit is. That makes a straight slit, same width/depth/shape all around.
The question is: does that seem a good idea to you, or do you have a better idea to fix it?
Kind regards,
Vigier
I'm building the Overnight Sensation MTM, designed by Paul Carmody. I decided to veneer the left, right and top panels in walnut. The front, rear and bottom panels will be spraypainted matt black.
I'm quite happy with the veneering, since it was the first time.
I glued all the panels together except the front, planned to glue that after veneering, since I wanted the sides of the front panel to be visible. That means the front panel is about 1 mm wider than the outside width of the side panels and than it's almost impossible to glue the veneer.
Since panels were a bit rounded after sanding, I have a pretty ugly slit between the front panels and the side panels (glued together now). I attached a picture of how that looks. The problem area has a red line around it. The slit isn't exactly the same width everywhere and a bit of the glue came out, filling the slit.
Before lacquering the veneer and spraypainting the other panels I want to 'fix' the ugly slits.
My idea is to use a router to make a really tiny V-shape slit where the current slit is. That makes a straight slit, same width/depth/shape all around.
The question is: does that seem a good idea to you, or do you have a better idea to fix it?
Kind regards,
Vigier
Attachments
That's one way and of course another is to cut a wider flat inset to either add a different 'accent' pattern veneer or my fave, a narrow groove for pinstriping tape, 'cheapskate' that I am. 😉.
GM
GM
Thnx for your advice. My hand ain't steady enough for pinstriping. Or did you mean to use pinstriping tape instead of pinstriping with paint?
You're welcome! In my youth I did do a bit of sign painting, pinstriping on the side, but did other things that messed up my hands enough to force me to quit, though as fate would have it, 3M came along just in time with some high quality pinstriping systems for the manufacturers [which look way better IMNSHO] to allow me to still do simple pinstriping even with arthritis; so yes, I meant tape.
I haven't kept up with the 'trade' though, just buy 3M locally, so there may be some suitable furniture systems available now, though a quick search returned none. You could always just cut strips from self stick wallpaper or similar like I've done to get the desired color/grain contrast.
Note that depending on the speaker's finish as a whole and/or desire to keep it looking good you may want to use an automotive or marine clear coat over any 'tape' for durability.
GM
I haven't kept up with the 'trade' though, just buy 3M locally, so there may be some suitable furniture systems available now, though a quick search returned none. You could always just cut strips from self stick wallpaper or similar like I've done to get the desired color/grain contrast.
Note that depending on the speaker's finish as a whole and/or desire to keep it looking good you may want to use an automotive or marine clear coat over any 'tape' for durability.
GM
While I can see the problem you're describing, I wonder if once the front baffle is painted (black, to increase the contrast w the veneer?) and the speaker is illuminated from above, if the problem doesn't go away on its own?
Thnx GM! Sorry to read you had to quit, but good advice. I could even spraypaint the strip with the color of the front, or the other option, I could use the clear laquer I use for the walnut wood/veneer as a coating.
@Andersonix: you're probably right that I won't see the problem with light from above. But when I don't fix it in a way that I'm happy with it, I will always remember that it isn't finished right when I look at the speaker. I learnt that after renovating my house 🙁
@Andersonix: you're probably right that I won't see the problem with light from above. But when I don't fix it in a way that I'm happy with it, I will always remember that it isn't finished right when I look at the speaker. I learnt that after renovating my house 🙁
I sympathize! But don't let the cure be worse than the disease.
Sleep on it (go to bed thinking about a solution) for 30 days and something suiting your aesthetic will naturally occur to you.
Sleep on it (go to bed thinking about a solution) for 30 days and something suiting your aesthetic will naturally occur to you.
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