Hello everyone. First time poster and first time attempting to design and build a subwoofer for my HT. I've gone through and read many forums and web sites about subwoofer building but I was hoping people here could tell me if I'm on the right track and help fill in some blanks for me. Since I've just started researching this I could be way off base with all of this so please let me know if I am and straighten me out. Ok, as I mentioned I want to build a subwoofer for my HT which is used primarily to watch movies. Listening to music and playing games are also done through the system but not near as much as watching movies. After reading article after article and many forum posts I decided I would like a ported sub since it maintains it's dB level deeper into the frequency range. I'll post the enclosure size I came up with and which sub and amp I plan to use for people to analyze. The questions I have is that I keep reading about how it can be easy to ruin a sub in a ported enclosure when driving it below it's tuning frequency because it becomes unloaded. How do people reach low frequency range for movies (I've read about movies going as low as 10Hz)? I plan to tune my sub around 25Hz, would it be smart of me, or would it even be necessary, to use the amp as a high pass crossover to filter out frequencies below the tuning point and to use my receiver as the low pass crossover? With the drop in dB after the tuning frequency could I do without a high pass crossover? I plan to use two 3" ports to keep length reasonable, would these be too small of a diameter? Here are my specs: Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm with a Dayton Audio SPA500 500W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier 3.6 cubic foot box tuned to 24.79Hz 22"Hx16"Wx18.75"D Two 3" ports, 14.69" long Several pounds of acoustic stuffing in the box. I haven't calculated bracing volume into the cabinet yet, but I did take into account woofer size and I also only figured for single flange ports but will recalculate for double flange ports; speaker enclosure size will change to maintain the 3.6 cubic foot requirement. I know I won't hit some of the numbers exactly, but I'll try my best! Thanks for any assistance and guidance in this. I know there are factors I am missing or don't understand such as how room acoustics will play into this.
That is weird, I did have it broken out into paragraphs.Let me try again.
Hello everyone. First time poster and first time attempting to design and build a subwoofer for my HT. I've gone through and read many forums and web sites about subwoofer building but I was hoping people here could tell me if I'm on the right track and help fill in some blanks for me. Since I've just started researching this I could be way off base with all of this so please let me know if I am and straighten me out.
Ok, as I mentioned I want to build a subwoofer for my HT which is used primarily to watch movies. Listening to music and playing games are also done through the system but not near as much as watching movies. After reading article after article and many forum posts I decided I would like a ported sub since it maintains it's dB level deeper into the frequency range. I'll post the enclosure size I came up with and which sub and amp I plan to use for people to analyze. The questions I have is that I keep reading about how it can be easy to ruin a sub in a ported enclosure when driving it below it's tuning frequency because it becomes unloaded. How do people reach low frequency range for movies (I've read about movies going as low as 10Hz)? I plan to tune my sub around 25Hz, would it be smart of me, or would it even be necessary, to use the amp as a high pass crossover to filter out frequencies below the tuning point and to use my receiver as the low pass crossover? With the drop in dB after the tuning frequency could I do without a high pass crossover? I plan to use two 3" ports to keep length reasonable, would these be too small of a diameter?
Here are my specs:
-Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm with a Dayton Audio SPA500 500W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
-3.6 cubic foot box tuned to 24.79Hz
-22"Hx16"Wx18.75"D
-Two 3" ports, 14.69" long
-Several pounds of acoustic stuffing in the box.
I haven't calculated bracing volume into the cabinet yet, but I did take into account woofer size and port volume. I also calculated for single flange ports but will recalculate for double flange ports; speaker enclosure size will change to maintain the 3.6 cubic foot requirement.
I know I won't hit some of the numbers exactly, but I'll try my best! Thanks for any assistance and guidance in this. I know there are factors I am missing or don't understand such as how room acoustics will play into this.
Hello everyone. First time poster and first time attempting to design and build a subwoofer for my HT. I've gone through and read many forums and web sites about subwoofer building but I was hoping people here could tell me if I'm on the right track and help fill in some blanks for me. Since I've just started researching this I could be way off base with all of this so please let me know if I am and straighten me out.
Ok, as I mentioned I want to build a subwoofer for my HT which is used primarily to watch movies. Listening to music and playing games are also done through the system but not near as much as watching movies. After reading article after article and many forum posts I decided I would like a ported sub since it maintains it's dB level deeper into the frequency range. I'll post the enclosure size I came up with and which sub and amp I plan to use for people to analyze. The questions I have is that I keep reading about how it can be easy to ruin a sub in a ported enclosure when driving it below it's tuning frequency because it becomes unloaded. How do people reach low frequency range for movies (I've read about movies going as low as 10Hz)? I plan to tune my sub around 25Hz, would it be smart of me, or would it even be necessary, to use the amp as a high pass crossover to filter out frequencies below the tuning point and to use my receiver as the low pass crossover? With the drop in dB after the tuning frequency could I do without a high pass crossover? I plan to use two 3" ports to keep length reasonable, would these be too small of a diameter?
Here are my specs:
-Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm with a Dayton Audio SPA500 500W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
-3.6 cubic foot box tuned to 24.79Hz
-22"Hx16"Wx18.75"D
-Two 3" ports, 14.69" long
-Several pounds of acoustic stuffing in the box.
I haven't calculated bracing volume into the cabinet yet, but I did take into account woofer size and port volume. I also calculated for single flange ports but will recalculate for double flange ports; speaker enclosure size will change to maintain the 3.6 cubic foot requirement.
I know I won't hit some of the numbers exactly, but I'll try my best! Thanks for any assistance and guidance in this. I know there are factors I am missing or don't understand such as how room acoustics will play into this.
One thing I forgot to ask is that the speaker manufacturer recommends a different enclosure size. Is there any negative results from going with a different build? This is what the manufacture says:
Sealed Volume 1.58 ft.³
Sealed F3 50 Hz
Vented Volume 2.72 ft.³
Vented F3 30 Hz
* Enclosure volume/F3s based on BassBox "optimum" calculations
Sealed Volume 1.58 ft.³
Sealed F3 50 Hz
Vented Volume 2.72 ft.³
Vented F3 30 Hz
* Enclosure volume/F3s based on BassBox "optimum" calculations
Real low frequencies require multiple sealed subs, and equalization. Sealed subs have a more gradual roll off, and the slope of the rolloff matches the boost from room gain. I'd look for a driver that works in a sealed box of around 3 cubic feet, with an F3 in the 30s.
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