Hi,
I would like to build 3-way stereo speakers, probably active with a Hypex FA253. From browsing the forum (thank you all) I already have a few ideas about which chassis would be suitable, but I haven't decided yet. If one is better than another, it may be more expensive. If it's more a matter of personal taste, I would choose the one that is more visually appealing or cheaper. Unfortunately I can't say much about the taste. We're currently listening to a Granduetta. We like the Eton ER4 better than the Eton 26HD3. Otherwise we haven't heard much yet. The taste in music is very broad, including rock, pop, classical, blues and a bit of home cinema.
That is what is already certain:
I built a CNC milling machine to build the Granduetta housing, so I would also like to build the future cabinets myself. The CAD Construction, Cutting, Gluing is a lot of fun for me, so if it makes sense, I would mill a 3D wave diffuser and stick it to the inside wall or any idea you may have, but i think we should first choose the drivers.
I got an umik-1 microphone to measure something.
I find these speaker drivers interesting:
If a chassis requires little volume, I would also take into consideration to use several per speaker. My tendency is towards the Accuton version, but I haven't heard any of these drivers.
I hope that I have presented it clearly and that you have fun following the progress. I'm curious what you have to say about it.
Kind regards
I would like to build 3-way stereo speakers, probably active with a Hypex FA253. From browsing the forum (thank you all) I already have a few ideas about which chassis would be suitable, but I haven't decided yet. If one is better than another, it may be more expensive. If it's more a matter of personal taste, I would choose the one that is more visually appealing or cheaper. Unfortunately I can't say much about the taste. We're currently listening to a Granduetta. We like the Eton ER4 better than the Eton 26HD3. Otherwise we haven't heard much yet. The taste in music is very broad, including rock, pop, classical, blues and a bit of home cinema.
That is what is already certain:
- not bigger than Granduetta (180L)
- bass response able to produce chest kicks
- sound good in a large area of the room
- not too complicated to design the active filter
- sound very good quietly
I built a CNC milling machine to build the Granduetta housing, so I would also like to build the future cabinets myself. The CAD Construction, Cutting, Gluing is a lot of fun for me, so if it makes sense, I would mill a 3D wave diffuser and stick it to the inside wall or any idea you may have, but i think we should first choose the drivers.
I got an umik-1 microphone to measure something.
I find these speaker drivers interesting:
| Tweeter | Accuton C25-6-158 / C30-6-358 | Bliesma T25B-6 | Bliesma T25A-6 | ScanSpeak Ellipticor D3404/552000 |
| Midrange | Accuton C90-6-724 / C168-6-990 | Bliesma M74B-6 | Bliesma M74A-6 | ScanSpeak Ellipticor 18WE/4542T00 |
| Woofer | Accuton AS250-6-552/ S280-6-282 | Purifi PTT10.0X04-NAB-01 | Reference RS225P-A | ScanSpeak Ellipticor 38WE/8582T00 |
If a chassis requires little volume, I would also take into consideration to use several per speaker. My tendency is towards the Accuton version, but I haven't heard any of these drivers.
I hope that I have presented it clearly and that you have fun following the progress. I'm curious what you have to say about it.
Kind regards
For most drivers I found suggestions that I would try using the Hypex Filter designer. Then continue to adjust by measuring and listening, right? I want to learn it this way.
Greets!
Hmm, including HT, classical, then ideally need at least a flat 20 - 20 kHz in room, so does any of the woofers go low enough at a high enough efficiency for your app or do you plan to add a separate subwoofer?
Hmm, including HT, classical, then ideally need at least a flat 20 - 20 kHz in room, so does any of the woofers go low enough at a high enough efficiency for your app or do you plan to add a separate subwoofer?
Hi, thank you.
I do not want to add a separate subwoofer. I hope the woofers go low enough.
I think i will use predetermined design parameters:
Accuton AS250: Vb: 91L, Port diameter: 70mm, Length: 90mm, Fres: 29.5Hz, F-3dB: 31Hz, Q: 0.50 (extended bass)
PTT10.0X04-NAB-01: Typical corner frequency, bass reflex PTT alignment 24.6Hz
Reference RS225P-A: very cheap, maybe use 4 per speaker to get it done?
ScanSpeak Ellipticor 38WE/8582T00: vented box, f(-3Db)=53Hz, Given the size, there might be more possible
I do not want to add a separate subwoofer. I hope the woofers go low enough.
I think i will use predetermined design parameters:
Accuton AS250: Vb: 91L, Port diameter: 70mm, Length: 90mm, Fres: 29.5Hz, F-3dB: 31Hz, Q: 0.50 (extended bass)
PTT10.0X04-NAB-01: Typical corner frequency, bass reflex PTT alignment 24.6Hz
Reference RS225P-A: very cheap, maybe use 4 per speaker to get it done?
ScanSpeak Ellipticor 38WE/8582T00: vented box, f(-3Db)=53Hz, Given the size, there might be more possible
1800$ a piece, for performance that can be found at lower cost elsewhere.
Hardly worth the money.
Also a gamble with SS lacking QC on elliptical voice coils and centering.
It's a 95 db woofer, there is a 10db gap ish to the other options, very different drivers and intended use.
The 38we is a large diameter midbass/bass not a sub.
Just build the tower version of the Open Source Monkey Box that has a thread on here and was designed with input from forum members.
If you want to splash the cash then the Troels Gravesen has a number of Elipticor builds that are available from Jantzen as kits. The Elipticor 3 might meet your requirements.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
If you want to splash the cash then the Troels Gravesen has a number of Elipticor builds that are available from Jantzen as kits. The Elipticor 3 might meet your requirements.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
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Thank you
The tips on the 38WE help me and I think I can cancel the Ellipticor draft with them.
The open source Monkey Box looks interesting, but as far as I can see there is no active version and it only goes up to almost 45Hz.
Of course they do not have to be expensive, but I accept a higher price for slightly higher quality, or as formulated in the Open Source Monkey Box Project: If the right parts cost a lot of money and there are no cheaper equivalents, it's okay to use those parts in the design.
The tips on the 38WE help me and I think I can cancel the Ellipticor draft with them.
The open source Monkey Box looks interesting, but as far as I can see there is no active version and it only goes up to almost 45Hz.
Of course they do not have to be expensive, but I accept a higher price for slightly higher quality, or as formulated in the Open Source Monkey Box Project: If the right parts cost a lot of money and there are no cheaper equivalents, it's okay to use those parts in the design.
I could not find any information on this speaker. Is it really 180 liters?
I have built 3 systems using the FA253, and one system using the FA123... Hypex is very good equipment.
Since you have a CNC machine (presumably a 3-axis router ? yes? ) you can profile the baffle without being constrained by tool limitations. Yes?
This is a design which uses some of the drivers you are interested in. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...iesma-t34b-in-wg-18we-32w.365836/post-6777874
j.
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Hi
Granduetta is a Duetta with dual midrange and woofer. A report on Duetta can be found in the magazine Klang + Ton. The total volume per housing is 180L.
That's right, there are no restrictions because of the 3 axis router machine.
Will an already built design with a passive crossover help me?
Can I use the volume recommendations from the driver manufacturers, estimate an active crossover and then measure until it fits?
Granduetta is a Duetta with dual midrange and woofer. A report on Duetta can be found in the magazine Klang + Ton. The total volume per housing is 180L.
That's right, there are no restrictions because of the 3 axis router machine.
Will an already built design with a passive crossover help me?
Can I use the volume recommendations from the driver manufacturers, estimate an active crossover and then measure until it fits?
If I were in your place, I would contact @PKAudio and ask for details on the T34B+18WE+32W project (see my link above). See if it is possible to use his design as a starting point for an active system based on the Hypex FA253. His design uses elliptical cross section edge profiling, and your CNC capability would be a perfect match.