Hi, I am designing a speaker for the first time and would like some feedback on my design before I actually build it.
Some additional info:
- Outer wall will be 36mm/1.4 inch thick and lined with 5cm/2 inch acoustic rock wool.
- Tweeter: Tang Band RT-2202S Aluminum Ribbon Tweeter (Tang Band RT-2202S tweeter kopen? - SoundImports)
- Woofers: Tang Band W6-1721 6-1/2" Underhung Midbass Driver (Tang Band W6-1721 woofer kopen? - SoundImports)
- Amp and DSP crossover: Hypex FA253 2 x 250 + 100 Watt FusionAmp (Hypex FA253 plaatversterker kopen? - SoundImports)
- Lower woofer tuned from 50Hz - 500Hz; Top woofer from 500Hz to 2500Hz and Tweeter from 2500Hz to 30000Hz
- Ports in red on drawing (not really sure about length?). Ported at the bottow in the hope of closer wall placement.
Hoping for some feedback 🙂
Some additional info:
- Outer wall will be 36mm/1.4 inch thick and lined with 5cm/2 inch acoustic rock wool.
- Tweeter: Tang Band RT-2202S Aluminum Ribbon Tweeter (Tang Band RT-2202S tweeter kopen? - SoundImports)
- Woofers: Tang Band W6-1721 6-1/2" Underhung Midbass Driver (Tang Band W6-1721 woofer kopen? - SoundImports)
- Amp and DSP crossover: Hypex FA253 2 x 250 + 100 Watt FusionAmp (Hypex FA253 plaatversterker kopen? - SoundImports)
- Lower woofer tuned from 50Hz - 500Hz; Top woofer from 500Hz to 2500Hz and Tweeter from 2500Hz to 30000Hz
- Ports in red on drawing (not really sure about length?). Ported at the bottow in the hope of closer wall placement.
Hoping for some feedback 🙂
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You should really run the woofers together at the bottom. This will simplify the design, the crossover, and give you full BSC without any additional effort.
Also I think you will not be able to achieve good crossover with the ribbon, as it doesn't look like you can cross it at the ~1.8-2kHz the woofer should ideally be crossed at. For ribbon tweeters you generally want to avoid crossing them low, as they tend to be quite fragile when asked to move a bunch of air.
I must say it looks quite ambitious for a first project, so Good Luck! 🙂
Also I think you will not be able to achieve good crossover with the ribbon, as it doesn't look like you can cross it at the ~1.8-2kHz the woofer should ideally be crossed at. For ribbon tweeters you generally want to avoid crossing them low, as they tend to be quite fragile when asked to move a bunch of air.
I must say it looks quite ambitious for a first project, so Good Luck! 🙂
Thank you for the advise and good luck.
You mean put both woofers in the bottom part of the cabinet? Not at the bottom of the cabinet? Noob question, what is BSC?
From the frequency response that I have seen from the woofer, I could crossover higher at 3500 Hz? It seems pretty stable to that point. Tang Bang advertises all the way up to 5000 Hz, but there are some real peaks and dips up there.
I always try to be ambitious in what ever I do. 🙂
You mean put both woofers in the bottom part of the cabinet? Not at the bottom of the cabinet? Noob question, what is BSC?
From the frequency response that I have seen from the woofer, I could crossover higher at 3500 Hz? It seems pretty stable to that point. Tang Bang advertises all the way up to 5000 Hz, but there are some real peaks and dips up there.
I always try to be ambitious in what ever I do. 🙂
I'd be very careful about choosing ribbons for a first build, especially running them low enough to meet a midbass driver. IMO, a good dome is a better option.
Apart from that, I agree with Sangram that using both woofers together covering the bass is a good move. A 2.5-way solution makes sense. An alternative would be to go MTM.
Chris
Apart from that, I agree with Sangram that using both woofers together covering the bass is a good move. A 2.5-way solution makes sense. An alternative would be to go MTM.
Chris
So the woofers play in unison till about 600Hz, and then you low-pass the lower woofer. The upper woofer plays till about 1.8k, when you cross over to a tweeter.
See this:
Zaph|Audio - ZRT - Revelator Tower
And
Zaph|Audio
Don't be taken in by a manufacturer plot, which is valid only on one axis. When you listen to a loudspeaker the frequency response is the sum of direct and reflected energy, and reflected energy is all about off-axis behaviour.
There is the added complication of rolloff, a crossover does not mean the woofer abruptly stops playing after the frequency has passe. It will continue playing and be audible to 2-3 octaves above Fc.
All of this means that we have more or less some basic standards about where to cross drivers depending on their diameter, and for a 6" driver about 2kHz is an acceptable maximum (my thumb rule).
There are very, very few ribbon tweeters that can handle this sort of crossover frequency. The TB is not one of those.
See this:
Zaph|Audio - ZRT - Revelator Tower
And
Zaph|Audio
Don't be taken in by a manufacturer plot, which is valid only on one axis. When you listen to a loudspeaker the frequency response is the sum of direct and reflected energy, and reflected energy is all about off-axis behaviour.
There is the added complication of rolloff, a crossover does not mean the woofer abruptly stops playing after the frequency has passe. It will continue playing and be audible to 2-3 octaves above Fc.
All of this means that we have more or less some basic standards about where to cross drivers depending on their diameter, and for a 6" driver about 2kHz is an acceptable maximum (my thumb rule).
There are very, very few ribbon tweeters that can handle this sort of crossover frequency. The TB is not one of those.
Thanks for all the replies. Based on the feedback and some more reading I changed my design and drivers.
Top woofer: SB Acoustics Satori MR16P-8
Tweeter: SB Acoustics Satori TW29RN-B-8
Bottom woofer: SB Acoustics Satori WO24P-8
Top woofer in a sealed box, should be able to go down to 90Hz and crossed to tweeter at 2000Hz
Bottom woofer should hopefully go below 30Hz with a ported design and rolled off at 600Hz
Port diameter: 3"/7.5cm, lenght: 8.5"/22cm
Green: reinforcements, not closed
I hope that it is an improvement :S
Top woofer: SB Acoustics Satori MR16P-8
Tweeter: SB Acoustics Satori TW29RN-B-8
Bottom woofer: SB Acoustics Satori WO24P-8
Top woofer in a sealed box, should be able to go down to 90Hz and crossed to tweeter at 2000Hz
Bottom woofer should hopefully go below 30Hz with a ported design and rolled off at 600Hz
Port diameter: 3"/7.5cm, lenght: 8.5"/22cm
Green: reinforcements, not closed
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I hope that it is an improvement :S
Thanks for all the replies. Based on the feedback and some more reading I changed my design and drivers.
Top woofer: SB Acoustics Satori MR16P-8
Tweeter: SB Acoustics Satori TW29RN-B-8
Bottom woofer: SB Acoustics Satori WO24P-8
Top woofer in a sealed box, should be able to go down to 90Hz and crossed to tweeter at 2000Hz
Bottom woofer should hopefully go below 30Hz with a ported design and rolled off at 600Hz
Port diameter: 3"/7.5cm, lenght: 8.5"/22cm
Green: reinforcements, not closed
I hope that it is an improvement :S
Did you consider making this without the bottom woofer? The 6.5 midrange could provide you enough of low end if the placement is near a wall.
I would anyway split out the lowest end into a proper subwoofer, the SB-Acoustics seems more like a woofer than a subwoofer. Take a look at some Dayton Audio things - RSS265 is a real beast in a small enclosure.
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